ok, ive just discovered a huge problem in my up coming system. i have a FW reservoir located in my laundry which is slightly higher than my sump, but lower than the top of my tank. i had planned to run the return line of the osmolator up to the top of my tank to avoid any syphon issues. However, im using a deltec km500 kalk-stirrer that sits below my tank and attaches directly to the return line of the osmolator, obviously creating a syphon when the pump stops. I cant move either the FW reservoir or the kalk stirrer! Do i have any options, or am i stuffed?
trying to solve osmolator syphon
- Thread starter dangerrrr
- Start date
Just about any airline check valve will work, but the rubber flapper or duck bill has a limited life when used with kalkwasser. I would just change them every year. Our check valve uses a stainless steel spring and ball and should work a bit longer but nothing is forever with kalk. Part is 5074.010.
it might be a little more complicated than i had first explained.
The FW reservoir is aprox. 36' from the tank and around 34" above the floor that the tank sits on. However, in order to get to the tank from the laundry, the tube from the osmolator travels;
up 8'
across 36' to where the tank is
and then back down 12' to the sump where the kalk reactor is.
i would have thought an inline checkvalve wont work because when the pump stops, its not "back" syphoning that takes place, but just a syphon in the same direction as the pump.
im interested in your idea roger but could explain it in more detail and will it still work with this extra information.
THANKS EVERYONE!
The FW reservoir is aprox. 36' from the tank and around 34" above the floor that the tank sits on. However, in order to get to the tank from the laundry, the tube from the osmolator travels;
up 8'
across 36' to where the tank is
and then back down 12' to the sump where the kalk reactor is.
i would have thought an inline checkvalve wont work because when the pump stops, its not "back" syphoning that takes place, but just a syphon in the same direction as the pump.
im interested in your idea roger but could explain it in more detail and will it still work with this extra information.
THANKS EVERYONE!
Unless you have substituted ' for " in some points, I don't think this will work at all, the pump is not capable of this sort of pressure. You need the end point of the hose to be above the top of the reservoir to solve the present problem and the pump is capable of 9ft max head. The length and the reacto certainly add some head pressure.
taking the pump out of the question, as i can always replace it with the Switched socket outlet 3150.11, do i have any options at all or am i doomed?
could i, for example, use a saltwater solenoid to activate somehow at the same time the pump does. maybe attach it to the same 12v point as the pump? would this be possible?
or perhaps replace the pump with a peri-pump with three "wheels" so that a syphon cant be started when the pump stops??
could i, for example, use a saltwater solenoid to activate somehow at the same time the pump does. maybe attach it to the same 12v point as the pump? would this be possible?
or perhaps replace the pump with a peri-pump with three "wheels" so that a syphon cant be started when the pump stops??
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I think it is getting overly complicated and failure prone. Short of relocating the reservoir and possibly using a smaller one, I don't see a safe and reliable way to do this. I agree that a peristaltic pump system may be the best option in this situation but they tend to deliver very slowly and can be quite expensive with the sort of flow and power you would likely need.
I've had similar thoughts abouts this and one easy way to combat this is have the pump it up to a bowl with a hole in it. Since you are using a kalk stirrer I would get a end cap for PVC pipes (rather large), drill a hole in the center and add a RO/DI line bulkhead. So, basically the pump pumps it up into the end cap, and then gravity forces it into the kalk stirrer. No reason why ithis shouldn't work. If you are worried about it failing you could very cheaply plumb an emergency line into the cap that either (a) sends it back to the RO/DI storage or (b) right into the tank. This is a very cheap solution $10-15.
Food for thought,
Food for thought,
