I purchased a custom Zero Edge aquarium that came with a very sturdy 3" tubular square stand. The bad part is the bottom has some significant rust build up. I have taken the time to grind down and wire brush the rust and am now at the point where it's bare metal. The stand has lots of rust pitting, but overall it has not affected the integrity of the stand, but simply cosmetic. I have used muratic acid and Krud Kutter rust remover, but still worried about the rust coming through a primer and paint job. Any suggestions on what precautions I should take when finishing the stand?
Tubular Steel Stand Restoration
- Thread starter cbort
- Start date
Vinny Kreyling
Premium Member
Agreed, need more TLC.
Not cheap but the best way would be powder coating.
Not cheap but the best way would be powder coating.
Thanks for the advice! That first picture is from when I brought it home.
Here are some updates shots from the sections I've been working on.
Attachments
Would powdercoating fill in the pitting? And would it completely stop it from rusting? I want to have it finished in glossy white, but a little worried about it not looking great due to the uneven surface.
Vinny Kreyling
Premium Member
I know it works but you would have to speak with the person doing the job for clarification.
aaronpentz
New member
You should sandblast the stand to remove all rust. And then as above have it line-x ed. Pretty much any truck bed liner will work best.
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These are all good recommendations. I would add that anytime I need something protected from rust, I use POR15. It is sort of like a truck bed liner paint. You can buy a kit that has a degreaser, a rust converter (Metal Prep), and the POR15 paint, plus a foam brush and some gloves. I think the small kit would cover the whole stand, and still have some left over.
Some caveats:
You have to paint it outside. The fumes can make you very sick.
Get a small mason jar to pour the POR15 into after you open the can. Humidity "œcures" it, so you only want to pour out just enough, and pour more as needed. You want to put a couple coats of the POR15 on, so you'll need to save it at least that long. You will probably find several uses after the stand.
Don't get it on you, and if you do, wipe it off. Quickly. It stains when it dries and NOTHING will remove it except time and shedding your skin cells.
It's not UV stable, so you will want to shoot a coat of paint over it to protect it.
I think that's about it, I use it on my car and tractor and swear by the stuff.
Some caveats:
You have to paint it outside. The fumes can make you very sick.
Get a small mason jar to pour the POR15 into after you open the can. Humidity "œcures" it, so you only want to pour out just enough, and pour more as needed. You want to put a couple coats of the POR15 on, so you'll need to save it at least that long. You will probably find several uses after the stand.
Don't get it on you, and if you do, wipe it off. Quickly. It stains when it dries and NOTHING will remove it except time and shedding your skin cells.
It's not UV stable, so you will want to shoot a coat of paint over it to protect it.
I think that's about it, I use it on my car and tractor and swear by the stuff.
fishez4alivin
Member
If you want it to last, I'd sandblast it, Then use a chemical that creates a sticky primed surface...it's called Ospho rust treatment, then use that POR15, they have a specific type they recommend when restoring old battery pans that rust out. It's super thick and and forms a hard shell. I used to paint a crab davit every 3-4 years using that stuff. And your stand would never have to weather the stuff my davit would....
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