Tunze osmolator wiring question

LowCel

LowCel

Premium Member
I am just finishing up installing the osmolator on my tank. I am at the part that it says use cable clamps to combine the cables of the metering pump and the controller. Does it matter which wire hooks to which? Just want to make sure before I screw something up.

Thanks
 
No, doesn't matter but if you wanted to be technically correct in Europe brown is hot or positive and blue is common or negative. The balck with red stripe lead is positive.
 
For some reason the osmolator is sticking on now. I just received this today and I bought it new from Marine Depot. The water is now 3/4" past the point at the bottom of the operating sensor. In order to get it to go off I have to actually touch the bottom of the sensor. It shouldn't be like that should it? I have a picture showing how far it is above the bottom of the sensor. If it is supposed to do this then I apologize in advance.

000_1426.jpg



Shoot, I just looked at it and it is on again! It is almost up to where the water goes into the sensor!
 
Lowcell - I'm sure Roger will jump in here and answer your question shortly, but I just installed the Osmomat which is the in-tank version of the Osmolator... In the Osmomat you mount the optical sensor so it is pointing upwards. Your picture looks like you have it pointing downwards in your picture.

This might be the proper way to do it with the Osmolator, but I was under the impression that the optical sensor kept the water level so it was almost at the tip of the sensor (when pointed upwards), and as soon as the water dropped too far below the tip it would turn on the pump to fill it back up until it reached the tip again.

I think you will really like this unit once you get it working properly.
 
Thanks for the tip, but according to the instructions it is supposed to be pointing down. I also tried to rince it in soap water and then rinse in warm water and it is still doing it.

I wouldn't be that concerned but I am leaving on Wednesday morning for Florida. I am going to be gone until Tuesday so I really need this to work. I would hate to have to cancel my trip just because of this.
 
Well I just soaked the sensor in soapy water for about 15 minutes and then rinsed with warm water for 15 seconds again.

It did fine for about 10 minutes and now it is filling up again. At first the green light started blinking and the orange light came on. It would fill for about 10 seconds. Then about two minutes later it did it again. The next time the green light started flashing then it quit and the orange light came on. This time the orange stayed on.

I unplugged it and plugged it back in and the orange light was still on and it was pumping water in. I have just unplugged it for the night. My salinity is already off enough from where it keeps filling up with ro/di water and I have to take the water out of the sump. Then I try it again and more ro/di water goes in and tehn I have to take it out. Notice a pattern?

I'm sure that the problem will be taken care of but I am on one hell of a time restraint here.
 
Sorry... disregard my "tip" about the pointing direction of the sensor tip. I had things all confused.

I'm sure Roger will jump in and straighten this out for you.
 
Is the hose going to the sump or the tank. If you ran your hose into the sump even after the pump shuts off the water continues to siphon into the sump. You need to run the hose up to the tank. Be sure the sensor is straight and remember it detects air by infared light, if you have a turbulent sump full of bubbles it will detect those bubbles the same as it would being in air. If you don't like the alarm the manual tells you how to turn it off.
 
The hose is going to the sump but it is located much higher than the pump so their should be no syphon. The orange light continues to stay on so it is providing power to the pump.

The sensor is in the last section of my sump so there is very little to no bubbles in that section.

As far as the alarm, I guess it's a good thing that it sounds, but I would much rather it not have any need to come on.
 
Sorry, I think I see the problem. The float must be 1" above the sensor. The osmolator is programmed to run the pump for about 8 seconds after detecting water level so the green and orange light should simultaneously be lit. I would strongly recommend pumping to the tank. Even if the pump is below the sump, if the reservoir water level is above the sump, it will drain until they are level.
 
The pump runs up to 4 minutes after it is full. That's how long it takes for the buzzer to come on.

Isn't the pump supposed to stop 10 seconds after it reaches the bottom of the sensor?
 
Well a couple of days ago when I got home I relocated the sensor about 8" over, away from the return pump. This seems to have taken care of the problem. I guess the return pump was creating microbubbles that were getting on the sensor.

I have been out of town for a couple of days but before I left all seemed to be fine. I'll let you know for sure once I get home but as of right now it seems like the problem was with the installation and not with the product.

Thanks for all of the information and the willingness to do whatever it would take to help me out Roger. I'm sort of glad this happened since now I know that if I have any problems down the road they will be taken care of.
 
Uggh, I have the same problem.

I don't believe there's a single mention in the manual anywhere that microbubbles can cause a false low level detection; probably should be in there.

This is really frustrating, the bubbles I have are very few and very tiny, but every 15 minutes or so they cause the pump to run.

It's a used system and sump I purchased from someone, really not sure what I can do to reduce bubbles. This was happening even without the skimmer running.
 
Create a baffle of some sort- a foam block, an acrylic plate, a piece of glass. Unfortunately it detects the difference in refraction of air vs water and it can't tell the difference between a bubble or the air. It just takes some patience but you can get it to work.
 
Ok, I'll see what I can do.

This is during a freshwater leak test, will saltwater bubble more or less? Seems like it will bubble more?
 
Last edited:
Saltwater tends produce finer bubbles. It may alter the effect. What size sump do you have? A bigger sump always helps with these problems. The Oceanic sumps are great for this because they have a neat bubble trap. Perhaps you could incorporate such a trap into what you have. It really is better to get the bubble problem solved- they innevetably make it through the return and into the tank.
 
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