Two stage regulator woes....

[bvysochin]

So.. we've always just gotten away with using a basic one stage regulator, with a controller. For our new build, we wanted the security of something more precise and sturdy.. so I came across someone selling what appeared to be a high end, all stainless dual stage regulator for what I thought was a killer price.. $300.

Received it, and it looks beautiful and weighs as much as a bag of bricks. Got it going, and all is good. I notice a few quirks.. ie: the working pressure drops, and the bottle pressure rises. Then, some days, it's the opposite.. the bottle pressure drops, and the working pressure rises. Never give it much thought because the ph in the carx chamber stays steady, so we chug along. 3 months later, the bottle runs out. I put a new bottle on. All is good. The next day, bottle pressure is good, but working pressure is now at 0, and the main regulator knob to set working pressure does nothing. Weird... Let it sit for a couple days, next day, it's working again. 12 hours later, same thing. Working pressure 0, knob does nothing. So now we have a beautiful, all stainless paperweight that doesn't do much for us.

Research shows me that this regulator was built by a highly reputable member who builds co2 regulators, so it wasn't something that was slapped together by someone who didn't know what they were doing. I don't believe whatsoever that the seller had any nefarious intentions when selling it, as everything was working when I received it, so I'm definitely not pointing fingers at anyone whatsoever. I'm not questioning anyone's integrity here.

I'm just bummed out more than anything. You hear all the good things about dual stage regulators.. ie: they'll outlast you.. they last forever.. you'll be able to pass them onto your grand kids.. etc etc etc. Well... not the case here!! I got a whopping 3 months out of this thing.

So my question is... Did I just get a dud? Is it something I did to screw it up? I've always used Dennerle check valves, and use co2 proof tubing.. and set the working pressure to 0, before reinstalling the regulator. I don't use any oil.. or teflon. Do these things actually crap out, like everything else? Does anyone know if a welding shop is able to rebuild the body or replace the internals, or is it not even worth it? Should I just stick to an aquarium plants carbon doser? If I was to get another high end regulator, my understanding is the bodies are usually used, and purchased off ebay, and then reassembled with the remainder of the components.. whats to say that this won't happen again? I guess I am able to swap everything over to a new body, correct? Are all the parts/sizes somewhat interchangeable? Does anyone have a suggestion for a brand new, never used, stainless body that is reliable?

Sorry for all the questions.. again, to reiterate, I'm not questioning anyone's integrity or workmanship here, just want to educate myself more before I waste any more time/money. Any input is appreciated!

 

[ycnibrc]

U should ask alan le to help u. Every parts of this kind of regulator are replacable u just need to know which one is bad. I own something similar and it is rock solid my 20lbs co2 cylinder is 1 1/2 year and still mo need to refill

 

[dodgerblew]

Why don't you ask the member Crystal who built it. If you don't want to do that ask Dave/o2manyfish

 

[ycnibrc]

Here read this may be u can find the answer to your problem

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2461771&highlight=alan+le

 

[bblumberg]

The 2nd stage pressure range is higher than would be ideal. You would like this to be less than 100 psi max; 60 or better yet 20 psi would be preferable. Still, it should work better than what you describe.

I will bet that this regulator has an internal leak. If you look at the link that Anthony sent, Alan tells how to test each stage for leaks. Sorry for your hassle. As others have said, good dual stage regulators should be very sparing of CO2.

 

[solitude127]

Have you done a leak check on all the joints? Maybe the teflon went bad
here's a good post on to check if your regulator is good

If you are getting a used regulator, there are chances that the regulator has an internal leak. Some regulators have faulty gauges, diaphragm seal broken, and the seal between first stage and second stage not completely sealed. So an internal leak test must be performed before you start the assembly. If you are buying a regulator from Ebay or any other sites, make sure you read the return policy clearly. Don't buy any used regulators from sellers that don't accept returns.

Step 1
A. Attach the regulator to the CO2 tank by tighten the CGA nipple to the tank's valve. Remember to place the nylon washer between the 2 ends or you will have a leak.

B. Turn the regulator knob all the way to the left (counter clockwise).

C. Open the CO2 tank valve. The high pressure gauge should read 800 PSI to 900 PSI (if you have a full tank).

D. Close the CO2 tank valve.

E. Record the PSI reading and let the regulator sit there for 6 hours. If the reading is the same after 6 hours, the first stage has no leak. Move on to step 2.

Note: If the PSI reading on the high pressure gauge drops and the low pressure gauge remains at 0, this indicates that there is a leak on the CGA nipple connection. You should do soapy water test on the joints. If the PSI on low pressure gauge spikes from zero to ~30 PSI, you can stop the test. Your regulator has an internal leak.

Step 2

A. Turn the regulator knob clockwise to let the CO2 gas travel the second chamber. Set the pressure to the maximum working pressure of your regulator. For example, if the regulator's max working is 60 PSI, you should set it to 60 PSI. Note: Most regulators come with a shutoff valve attached at the output port. This valve must be fully closed so the CO2 can remain in the second chamber. If there is no shutoff valve, you can attach a solenoid to the output pressure port and make sure the solenoid is not powered on.

B. Isolate the CO2 gas between the first chamber and second chamber by turning the regulator knob all the way to the left (counter clockwise).

C. Make sure the CO2 tank valve is closed. You can remove the regulator from the CO2 tank at this point. Again never remove the regulator from the CO2 tank when the tank valve is opened or you will have a heart attack. Note that CO2 gas is trapped in the second chamber after you remove the regulator from the tank because you have closed the second stage by turing the regulator all the way to the left.

D. Wait for ~5 minutes. The pressure might drop 1 to 2 psi due to second stage diaphragm being stretched.

E. Do a soapy water leak test around the low pressure gauge and shut off valve joints to make sure you have zero leak. Record the final PSI reading and wait for 6 hours. If there is no change in the final reading, your regulator is good to go.

 

[cellingson]

I'd google the model and make sure it is dual stage.



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[denash24]

Text Alan he's a nice guy and willing to help.