Ultimate 20G Setup Journal - Pic Intense

DSparks

New member
Hello! Welcome to the diary thread for my custom 20 gallon nano setup. I've been in the planning stages for over a year now. This has been a slow going project. My wife and I had our first child last April, so needless to say my priorities have changed quite a bit.

I apologize in advance for the poor picture quality. Many were taken in the garage at night after the baby was asleep. Feel free to ask for more pictures of anything that interests you. As time permits I'll try to pull together some better snapshots.

Before I get into the details I want to thank everyone here for all of their help and ideas over the last few years. I spend many lunch hours and late nights lurking through the boards. Most of the ideas incorporated into this setup have come from other members' ingenious designs. There is very little that I can personally take credit for.

My 10 gallon has been in operation for over 2 years. It's been a great tank to operate while learning more about the hobby. Based on experiences with this tank I had several goals in mind when designing the new setup:

First, I wanted a clean looking system. One of the things that drive me crazy with the 10 gallon is all of the wires and plumbing hanging out of the back. It really takes away from enjoying the tank when all those ugly wires and hoses catch my eye.

Second, I wanted better control over equipment. Climbing around on the floor cramped behind the tank to unplug a pump or turn off a timer is just plain silly.

Third, I didn't want the size of the 20 gallon tank to limit the size of the sump/fuge in the stand. The stand I built for my 10 gallon has a tiny footprint which really limited my options for external equipment.

Finally, I wanted easy access to all parts of the setup (plumbing, electrical, etc). I have to admit that I don't have the best history of tank maintenance. I'm lazy, so the easier I can make things the better off my tank will be.
 
I kept all of these goals in mind when designing the stand. My tools are limited so I decided to use the project wood from Lowes. It comes in a variety of wood types and sizes. I went with laminated pine.

Wood_1.jpg


The stand's length and width is larger than the base of the tank to accommodate a larger sump/fuge, a storage area, and a panel of switches to control receptacles for equipment.

Wood_2.jpg


The switches will control 5 receptacles in the sump/fuge area and three receptacles on the back of the stand for lights and fans in the hood.

Wood_3.jpg


One heavy duty extension cord will be used to feed the power panel, which will in turn feed each of the receptacles. I had considered using the DJ power panels that others have used, but they were a little too wide for my liking. I also had quite a few switches and receptacles left over from finishing my basement, which made the decision easier.
 
There was some some exterior oil based paint left over from a window painting project. This was perfect for painting the interior of the stand. The tank ened up with 6 coats of paint when all was said and done.

Paint_1.jpg


Notice the angled cut-out at the top of the storage area on the left. In the middle of building the stand I realized I was working myself into a pickle. Without notching out this area I wouldn't have been able to plumb a return up the left side of the tank.

Paint_2.jpg
 
The tank will sit about five inches from the back of the stand. This will allow for an external overflow to drain down into the sump/fuge area. I'll also plumb the returns back up through this opening.

Early_View_2.jpg


Early_View_1.jpg


Early_View_3.jpg
 
I opted to go with an external overflow to maximize usable space within the tank. I missed taking some pictures while building the external overflow. Never fear, there are several good threads out that walk through the process step by step.

Here's how I drilled the holes. I'm installing two drains in case one gets clogged. Thanks to my wife for the play dough (kindergarten teacher).

Overflow_1.jpg


Here I'm dry fitting the box.

Overflow_2.jpg


Overflow_3.jpg


Here's the overflow complete with the tank on the stand. You can see now why I needed to create the angled section on the right. It will allow me to snake plumbing up that side of the tank for a return.

Setup_5.jpg


I was able to get all the plumbing parts I needed at Lowes. Gone are the days of paying for overpriced bulkheads.

Setup_4.jpg
 
I stained and polyurethaned the stand. Here's a picture from the front. I still need to install magnetic catches to hold the doors closed and child safety locks to keep little man out of it. I'll probably also inset the door hinges to get a cleaner fit.

Setup_1.jpg


These pictures show the back section (which hides the plumbing) and the hood, which is anchored to the back section.

Setup_6.jpg


Hood_1.jpg


I struggled over the best way to assemble the back to the stand and the hood to the back. I needed to be able to disassemble these pieces easily so that I can get at the plumbing for maintenance and repair. I finally settled on using threaded inserts and furniture screws (from the Lowes specialty hardware drawers). They work great!

For some reason the stain looks orange in this picture.

Setup_7.jpg


The hood attaches to the back also using the threaded inserts and furniture screws.

Setup_8.jpg


I decided on the "keep it simple" approach when building a mechanism to hold the hood open. An oak dowel rod and several shallow holes allow the hood to be held open in three different positions. I still need a clever way to store the dowel rod when the hood is closed (any ideas?).

Setup_9.jpg
 
Lowes had everything I needed to build the Durso standpipes. The drains are one inch, which may be overkill for a 20 gallon.

Overflow_4.jpg


Overflow_5.jpg


To keep algae from growing in the overflow box I build a lid out of some of the leftover black acrylic.

Overflow_6.jpg


Overflow_7.jpg
 
I was having trouble coming up with the best way to handle the wiring until my brother-n-law drew out a nice wiring diagram (Thanks Josh!). I picked up a heavy duty black extension cord and spliced it into 14 gauge wire. I then used the 14 gauge to wire everything together.

Notice the three receptacles that will control the lights and fans in the hood. I'm a little concerned about fitting both timers and 12 volt adapters into only these three receptacles.

Power_Back.jpg


I also used threaded inserts and furniture screws to attach the switch panel to the stand. This will make it easy to access the wiring in the event that something needs to be repaired or upgraded.

Power_Front.jpg


And here are the five receptacles that will power the return pump, skimmer, fuge light, heater, auto top off, and any other necessary equipment.

Setup_3.jpg


After some debate I installed task lighting. Since most of my time with the tank will be in the evening I figure that I'll be happy with the decision. I'm a little worried about how the lights will hold up in the high moisture content, but each light and fixture only run about six bucks so I can live with replacing them every now and them.

Task_Lights.jpg
 
Last edited:
And here's the sump/fuge in place. It fits perfectly [insert sigh of relief].

Sump_Install_1.jpg


Sump_Install_2.jpg


Because I was working with a near square footprint I had to get a little creative with the design of the sump. Along with RC, Melev's site has been an excellent resource for sump/fuge design. Honestly, I've never operated a sump or refugium, so I can't say how well what I've come up with will work. Feel free to chime in with comments or critique.

Sump_Schematic.jpg


Sump_1.jpg


Sump_3.jpg


Sump_4.jpg


Here's a shot of the media tray. It'll be fed by the skimmer output

Sump_2.jpg


The skimmer section is a little tighter than what I had hoped for. I may have to forego the media tray to have enough room for the drains :(
 
To Do List:

1. Decide on a pump. Any suggestions? I'll be plumbing the return through a SCWD. I'll also tee off of the return to feed the fuge (a.k.a. Melev style). I'm thinking maybe a Mag 5?

2. Decide on Lighting. I'm leaning towards a retrofit kit from Hello Lights. A 150W MH with 2x55W Actinic PC's. Anyone have experience with these (or other) retrofit kits?

3. I'm debating whether or not to DIY a thin Agrocrete wall to cover the back of the tank. I've see other's use the Great Stuff foam, but I'm not crazy about possible long term breakdown of the product.

4. Decide between a thin sand bed and a fake sand bed. I've seen threads where some have created an epoxied sandbed that has the natural look and allows for greater flow.

5. Decide on Cooling Fans. They MUST be quiet. The noise from the 10 gallon setup drives my wife nuts.

5. Build a matching chest style bench seat that will sit next to the tank and hold top off water and maybe a kalk reactor.

6. 30 other things that I'm not considering at this point in time (heater, fuge macro, ph monitor, etc, etc, etc).

I've made excellent progress in the past couple of months, but I'm still far from having it up and running. I really wanted to wait on posting anything until I was filling the tank with water, but I realized that I can really benefit from the collective critique here at RC. I'd love to hear your thoughts. Do you see anywhere that I'm going to get into trouble? What about lights or the return pump? Cut loose and let me know what you what you think!
 
wow, this is awesome! You get the double thumbs up from me. The work light inside the cabinet will also double as lighting for your fuge.

Personally, I would install an acrylic sheet under the power plugs to guard against splashes from the sump. Just in case.
 
Thanks for the kind words. Greg, you have to keep me in the loop when you start your next setup.

Louis, the acrylic guard is a great idea! I'm adding that to the setup for sure.

Keep those comments coming, and feel free to be constructive.
 
Thanks guys! I'll be keeping the thread updated as I make progress.

Anyone have any advice related to my questions (pump and lights)?
 
Back
Top