undergravel filtration

[knap_123]

I lost my last dwarf today. He was a yar Old so I think that was it. But I will get some more. But I'm thinking of trying a tetra 3 gal. Tall tank. It has a undergrvel filter.

I was reading a post on oceanrider saying how undergravel is the authors preferred setup. What's your thoughts?

 

[knap_123]

Couple YouTube bids of the tank. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rQEhsXfXW-g&feature=related http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=R7DWQJ5vr1Y&desktop_uri=/watch?v=R7DWQJ5vr1Y

 

[DanU]

It is not that uncommon for us to keep H. zosterae specimens for 2 to 2 1/2 years.

Undergravel filters are notorious for holding a lot of detritus. Anytime you have a build up of organics, you run the risk of increased bacteria and protozoans.

Dan

 

[tjdouglas]

I was thinking the same thing as Dan, that dirt and filth tends to build up in the gravel of under-gravel filter systems and often leads to a lot of problems. Maybe a small HOB filter would be better...or possibly a mini-protein skimmer (but you might have to shut it off for a while when putting in your enriched live baby brine).

 

[Paul B]

I run one in my 100 gallon reef and it has been running for 42 years. But I run it very slow and in reverse. I also have a sponge filter on the intake so I don't push much detritus under the gravel. Twice a year I stir up the gravel and suck it out.

 

[knap_123]

With my current again 2 &1/2 gal. I use nothing but a sponge and sand. But I get alot of guano and especially since I pancured for hydroids. I had to take out my snails. But what about adding a palm filter as suggested for more flow with my sponge. And I'm thinking of bare bottom as well.

 

[DanU]

Panacur will kill herbivores and some omnivores but usually not carnivores. You should be able to add Nassarius Snails, they usually live through the treatment if dosed properly.

Too much flow from the filter will cause you to lose the zosterae to the suction side of the filter.

Dan

 

[knap_123]

The palm filter has adjustable flow. So I can turn it really low. I'm thinking of having it on the side so the flow is pushed long ways towards my sponge. And I did reads a nasarius recently. I took it out after my female came up missing.

 

[DanU]

Yes, Nassarius. There is a whelk that looks like them. The whelks will go after the H. zosterae. Nassarius snails will only if they are dead on the bottom.

The way I increase the flow on my fry tanks without running the risk of pulling them in a filter is to create an airlift using a PVC sweep from electrical PVC Conduit. I either suction cup it to the side or make a Tee on the bottom and stick a rigid tube in and let it flow. I can really crank up the flow and circulation without damaging the little guys.

Dan

 

[knap_123]

Ill try something like that as well, thank you Dan
What's your thoughts on barebottom? I have Blk. Sand but not happy with it. So I remove a little each time.

 

[DanU]

As a commercial producer, bare bottom is the only way to go because of the high densities and number of tanks to care for. Also allows in tank treatment. Panacur for example used in liquid form in such a system can be removed with charcoal and protein skimmer and the snails could go back in. If you have sand and rock, then residual amounts are left behind.

For a display tank with larger seahorses and light stocking density, I would prefer sand and a more natural type setup. H. zosterae tanks however, are a high maintenance tanks. I prefer bare on them. My current zosterae tank is a 65 gal round fiberglass tank on a sump. It has plastic plants for hitches and live mysids in with them. We siphon it daily with a brush and scrub it once a week. Plastic plants get sterilized once a month in bleach. Other than that, we had enriched artemia a few times a day and then turn up the flow a bit at night to wash out the artemia. This setup has been running for about 5 years now mostly problem free. The zosterae reproduce heavily and we can pull anywhere from 100 to 200 out per month.

Dan