Update and questions --frag tank and ro/di

levon15

New member
I got my ro/di hooked up this weekend, after the ro it is was showing 27ppm and after the DI it was showing 0 ppm. The readinghave changed since I ran about 30 gallons through it and now it shows about 16ppm after the ro. Is there a breaking in period. I will be ordering more DI this week in preperation for changes if needed. The membrane is 75gpd at a 97-98% rejection rate.

My new frag tank with sump and fuge are set up and running. I will drain it tommrow (freashwater testing) and wiping it down. Is there anything else I should do to it befor eI fill it up with new clean water?
This leads me to my next couple of questions. What salt does everyone use/buy? I have never mixed my own saltwater yet and am looking for any pointers. I will be buying about a 15 gallon trashcan as I do not have room for the brute (right now at least).

My question is can I fill the tank up with water and then mix the first batch of saltwater in the tank? If so add some pointers please.

I would have never thought I would be excited about pure water in my house. I needed water for a top off so I tapped the line and got some. I went about a year in this hobby and within two days I know this is the best purchase I ever made for supporting my addiction. All I see is money and time saved.

Thanks for evryones help and what sort of float switch does everyone reccomend? One for the freshwater reservoir and also looking for suggestions on auto topoff solutions. I know I researched the crap outa them about 8 months ago, and it looks like I will do it again tommorow while I am at "work"

Hope everyone had a fun and safe weekend.
 

hagfish

New member
Mix in tank the first time. Afterwards, mix in holding tank of some sort. In the mixing tank, add a little circulation and a heater to bring it up to the temp of the main tank. Circulation is for oxygen and PH.
 

hagfish

New member
Oh, and since you just started mixing salt, make sure you use a refractometer to test the salinity. They are much more accurate and reliable than a hydrometer.
 

DrBDC

New member
See if that refractometer has been calibrated to 1.026 also. Even if calibrating to 0, they are usually off by .002 which is really no big deal if you stay consistent but we're trying to do our best with these reefs so the more accurate the better.

Your drop from 27 to 16 after the r/o is probably just a washing out of dust etc. from the lines. But always have extra DI resin available and change it when it gets to 1-2 tds. Not paying attention and then finding it at 40 tds WILL contribute to a cyano bloom. :rolleyes:

I use IO as well after becoming disappointed with various elements being too high in other brands. It's easier to add about 60 ppm ca and 100-150 mag. Plus the price is unbeatable right now at Gateway or MS on the 200 gallon box (35.00), and all the time at petsmart with the online price match (31.99) of the 160 gallon bucket.
 

levon15

New member
I have the refractormeter since I got in the hobby to check the wtaer I was buying for LFS's.

IO it is and I was hoping to mix in tank.

Topoff manually everyday is what i am used to but It will be with a holding tank and line with a valve rather than my old system of pouring water from the jug into the sump. I hated topping off before because I was scared of having to go to the LFS and buy more water. Having it on tap in the fish room will never make me think twice.
 
Top