karimwassef
Active member
It's been running at 100% for over a day now. I used a plastic sheet and touched the FETs... warm, but not hot.
I'll measure the current tonight. I'll also make the adaptation to the Apex drive.
Use PWM to control your Jebao DCT pump using brushless motor controller from ebay
- Thread starter d0ughb0y
- Start date
It's been running at 100% for over a day now. I used a plastic sheet and touched the FETs... warm, but not hot.
I'll measure the current tonight. I'll also make the adaptation to the Apex drive.
karimwassef
Active member
No, I meant use the A B C outputs to drive banks of A FETs, B FETs, C FETs... basically create a multiplier effect with multiple switches for multiple pumps
A to drive the gate of 4 FETs -> A1 A2 A3 A4
B to drive the gate of 4 FETs -> B1 B2 B3 B4
C to drive the gate of 4 FETs -> C1 C2 C3 C4
A1, B1, C1 go to pump 1
A2, B2, C2 go to pump 2
A3, B3, C3 go to pump 3
A4, B4, C4 go to pump 4
So one output can be used with a bank of 3x FETs to drive x pumps.
So 10 pumps would require 30 FETs that are being turned on and off by this controller board.
So $12 x 10 = $120 (conventional, but need 10 signal sources)
or $12 x 1 + $2 x 30 = $72 (assuming $2/FET assembled with board and components, can use one signal source for all).
d0ughb0y
Active member
The WVU outputs are fed back to the control chip as back emf signal to control commutation timing, so it would not be possible to use one controller to drive multiple pumps.
$120 would just buy you 1 icecap interface.
Considering the JCT15000 is probably running at 4amps, warm is a good sign. Once you get the killawatt reading, then we know for sure how many amps the pump is using.
$120 would just buy you 1 icecap interface.
Considering the JCT15000 is probably running at 4amps, warm is a good sign. Once you get the killawatt reading, then we know for sure how many amps the pump is using.
karimwassef
Active member
Ok. So I can't go cheap. One controller per pump...
How many controllers do you think we can drive with a single Apex signal?
How many controllers do you think we can drive with a single Apex signal?
d0ughb0y
Active member
The only way to find out is to test. Worst case you can add a buffer chip (maybe 74HCT245) with all inputs connected to apex signal and each output connects to a board.
karimwassef
Active member
good point. I think there'a a limit of 20mA on the V1/V2 outlets though. Exceeding that could damage the Apex. That's what I remember from Russ a couple of years ago.
karimwassef
Active member
ok. Here's the output current and power as a function of the signal VDC (0-5VDC)
<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/1_zps9lpwm4nj.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/1_zps9lpwm4nj.png" border="0" alt=" photo 1_zps9lpwm4nj.png"/></a>
<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/1_zps9lpwm4nj.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/1_zps9lpwm4nj.png" border="0" alt=" photo 1_zps9lpwm4nj.png"/></a>
karimwassef
Active member
The supply voltage was 24.6VDC consistently.
After running for a couple of days, the FETs are "painfully hot", but not immediately burning.
So I'm guessing 80C? I think a metal plate and little fan would be a good idea for multiple controllers in a box.
After running for a couple of days, the FETs are "painfully hot", but not immediately burning.
So I'm guessing 80C? I think a metal plate and little fan would be a good idea for multiple controllers in a box.
karimwassef
Active member
Another question... On another thread, a CP pump user said that the makers of the wireless controller are pushing to 120% output (more than the native Jebao controllers). That suggests that they're boosting the voltage input to 29VDC or more and the motors can handle it...
So now, I'm curious about "overdrive". I ask because I plan on running these pumps in cyclical mode between 0% and 100% over about a minute period. In fact, I'm going to phase them by 180 degrees too (two of them) or 120 degrees (if using three). That implies that it may be possible to overdrive at the peak since the pumps won't be running at that level constantly.
So how do we test if we can push 20% or more out??
So now, I'm curious about "overdrive". I ask because I plan on running these pumps in cyclical mode between 0% and 100% over about a minute period. In fact, I'm going to phase them by 180 degrees too (two of them) or 120 degrees (if using three). That implies that it may be possible to overdrive at the peak since the pumps won't be running at that level constantly.
So how do we test if we can push 20% or more out??
d0ughb0y
Active member
I would not trust any claim made by fish-street. They have been known to stretch the truth a lot. (they once claimed they are selling a newly designed power supply they designed themselves, but it is actually your generic cheap laptop power supply, like the ones that comes with JCT pumps now) That probably means the stock controller is not capable of running 100% and the new device they are selling can, in order to promote the sales. The other possibility is, I know the stock controller uses P-Channel N-channel mosfet pairs. This is not as efficient as using N-channel mosfet pairs. So perhaps the T1 is using N-channel mosfets only. The green board is using all n-channel mosfets.
All you need to do to maximize this is make sure pin 16 of the motor controller chip gets the max 5v. You can try putting on voltage higher than 24v, but I don't think that is what the fish-street controller does, as you still use your stock 24v power supply. I doubt there is any voltage boost Applying a higher voltage may risk burning out the motor coils.
If it is getting hot, then using a heat sink makes sense. I know I found a heat sink on ebay specifically designed for these boards, but can't seem to find it now. I should have bookmarked it.
All you need to do to maximize this is make sure pin 16 of the motor controller chip gets the max 5v. You can try putting on voltage higher than 24v, but I don't think that is what the fish-street controller does, as you still use your stock 24v power supply. I doubt there is any voltage boost Applying a higher voltage may risk burning out the motor coils.
If it is getting hot, then using a heat sink makes sense. I know I found a heat sink on ebay specifically designed for these boards, but can't seem to find it now. I should have bookmarked it.
karimwassef
Active member
Since I'm doing multiple drives for multiple pumps, I'll use a larger plate, U tubes and a fan.
d0ughb0y
Active member
I was trying to find the listing for the heat sink, and it was just a sample picture of the board attached to a heat sink and not selling the actual heat sink.
and the other listing for the same board says to use a heatsink if load is > 60watts. So I incorrectly said 6A. So it makes sense now since your graph shows you are going over 60 watts, that you need to use a heat sink.
and the other listing for the same board says to use a heatsink if load is > 60watts. So I incorrectly said 6A. So it makes sense now since your graph shows you are going over 60 watts, that you need to use a heat sink.
d0ughb0y
Active member
Can you test if the pump still operates if you power it with 12v?
I think it still should, with PWM at least 50%, or maybe closer to 100%.
The board is rated 12-36v.
The stock controller only works on 24v, so it cannot be used with 12v backup power.
I just found UPS battery on sale at a local store, like $12 for 7AH 12v battery,so I might get some and use it as backup power.
Bad news for me, I think the green board I got is defective. I will contact the ebay seller.
I think it still should, with PWM at least 50%, or maybe closer to 100%.
The board is rated 12-36v.
The stock controller only works on 24v, so it cannot be used with 12v backup power.
I just found UPS battery on sale at a local store, like $12 for 7AH 12v battery,so I might get some and use it as backup power.
Bad news for me, I think the green board I got is defective. I will contact the ebay seller.
karimwassef
Active member
sorry to hear that. I just ordered three more... Hope my odds are good.We do need to exercise the controllers to make sure they're robust.
I'll try the 12V.
I'm running a 24V backup battery, by the way, so 12V isn't necessary.
karimwassef
Active member
No. I found a really cheap charge controller on amazon. $11
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L37KZI6
It's originally intended for solar panel charging, but it doesn't matter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L37KZI6
It's originally intended for solar panel charging, but it doesn't matter.
d0ughb0y
Active member
Use PWM to control your Jebao DCT pump using brushless motor controller from ebay
Good idea. I was just looking under lead acid battery chargers.
Does this power the load if there is power from solar input and charge your battery at the same time, then automatically use the battery to power the load if there is no input from solar?
Does it also know to shutdown completely if battery voltage goes down to say 10v? (or 20v if you are using 24v). As you do not want to completely drain your battery.
I tried searching online for a manual and can't find one, but based on the description, it looks like it will shut off the load at 10.8v. This is perfect.
Good idea. I was just looking under lead acid battery chargers.
Does this power the load if there is power from solar input and charge your battery at the same time, then automatically use the battery to power the load if there is no input from solar?
Does it also know to shutdown completely if battery voltage goes down to say 10v? (or 20v if you are using 24v). As you do not want to completely drain your battery.
I tried searching online for a manual and can't find one, but based on the description, it looks like it will shut off the load at 10.8v. This is perfect.
Last edited:
karimwassef
Active member
I haven't tested it under all different conditions.
I wouldn't use a normal lead acid battery though. Also, the energy storage/$ is important to me since I would like to survive for several hours on a charge.
A deep discharge marine battery is really best here. This is the one with the best value IMO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C
You can stack them two deep to get to 24V.
This charger is limited to 20A though, so that's not much power throughput IMO. I was looking for a higher current bypass so the 20A only limits the charging and not the normal running current.
This is a big topic for me - you might want to start its own thread so this one can stay focused on the motor drive.
I wouldn't use a normal lead acid battery though. Also, the energy storage/$ is important to me since I would like to survive for several hours on a charge.
A deep discharge marine battery is really best here. This is the one with the best value IMO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C
You can stack them two deep to get to 24V.
This charger is limited to 20A though, so that's not much power throughput IMO. I was looking for a higher current bypass so the 20A only limits the charging and not the normal running current.
This is a big topic for me - you might want to start its own thread
so this one can stay focused on the motor drive.
karimwassef
Active member
As an aside - I don't use the cheap 12V or 24V power adapters if at all possible. They're horrendously expensive and very poor quality.
I prefer refurbished power supplies, but you need to do some work to get them up and running.
I wouldn't recommend the same for everyone, but this is the best solution I've found for real DC power. I use it for 12V and 24V grids
http://www.rchelination.com/setting-hp-dps-1200fb-power-supply/
I prefer refurbished power supplies, but you need to do some work to get them up and running.
I wouldn't recommend the same for everyone, but this is the best solution I've found for real DC power. I use it for 12V and 24V grids
http://www.rchelination.com/setting-hp-dps-1200fb-power-supply/
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