Using a ro/di float valve in sump?

MikesReef83

New member
I'm using a large 150 gallon stock tank as a sump and I have two 55 gallon barrels sitting up higher next to the sump as my water change station. I had seen some use those ro/di float valves by mounting one at the water level in the sump and having the ro/di barrel feed it as an ato. If this a pretty safe option I would rather goes this route rather than spending 200+ on a tunze system. How affective is having these float valves setup like this compared to an actual ato system?
 
As long as the float valve never sticks open you are fine...
BUT there have been too many instances of peoples floats not closing all the way and then all that 110gallons could be in your sump/on your floor,etc..

Thats why many of us recommend MUCH smaller ATO containers.. Just incase then you only have 10 gallons or whatever to worry about.
I run a 16 gallon ATO container.. But I also have dual float switches and a controller that will automatically shut off the ato pump if the float switch hasn't closed within 10 minutes.
 
I use a Watt humidifier float valve available cheap at your local hardware store. I've used it or another like it since 94 or so. It is a float arm hinged on two pins that presses a rubber stopper onto a tiny aperature on a conical port. I can't imagine how it could jam open unless one were to accidentally snap off the float arm while doing some maintenance.

Mine has clogged occasionally but then I drip kalk through it so checking flow becomes part of my kalk res refill operation. I say go for it.
 
It wouldnt be 110 gallons in the sump. Maybie 25 since I would only plumbing from my ro/di barrel half way up and not from my saltwater barrel.
Ill have to look up yhe watts humidifier float valve.
 
I've been doing it that way for years my ro tank is smaller but never had a problem but I do replace the float every other year
 
I used this exact same setup for 4 years with no problems. DO NOT MIX KALK in your RO topoff, put NOTHING but RODI in there if you want to avoid the valve sticking open. And as stated, good idea not to have a huge topoff tank. You should have enough free space in your sump so that if your return pumps fails and your ATO sticks open, the combined backflow from your tank and your full ato tank emptying into your sump will not overflow it.
 
I was mistaken regarding the brand, it is a Wait float valve, not Watt. Mine both look pretty much like this one though all black. I tried to upload a picture of my own but couldn't get it to work.

04A900905_4.jpg


Here it is on someone's tank. Not my image but it's here on RC
FloatValve.JPG
 
I only have a 110gal total'ish system, but I too use this ato method.

5gal bucket, 3/4" uniseal, 6" length of 3/4" pvc pipe, then 3/4" slip to 1/2" thread adapter, then a 1/2" mpt to 1/4" JG adapter fitting, 1/4" JG valve, to a sump mounted BRS float valve.

Bucket to float valve is about 4ft. And i only fill the bucket with about 4gals. Only reason i used 3/4" sizing is because i already had the pipe and uniseals left over from a past project...
 
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I have used this valve for ATO for 20 years no problems. Not hi tech costing lots of money but simple and useful.
 
Thanks, thats what I like to hear. Sounds like you guys like using the float valves and are happy with them.
Ive looked at the Avast ATO and its looks like its a nice system.

Where could I find these long float valve mounting brackets? Few people on this board use these in their rubbermaid sumps with good success.
 

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