using the Neptune DOS to do automatic water changes

Pretty simply. For our hobby, it is an electronic valve that is typically a 1/4" input and output. For this application, you want one that is normally closed. Then, when you apply power to it, it opens and allows water (or supplements or whatever) to go through. You set the apex to have it turn on whenever the DoS is operational. That way it will be closed when not in use and avoid a siphon opportunity.

They run about $10 or so and come in a variety of voltages. I prefer 120v so I do not need to buy a power supply. They can only be used on the EB4 or the #4 and #8 outlets of the EB8.

Shawn
 
Very good, thanks. I hate to keep asking questions but how do I wire to it? I see it has a male prong on it so I'm gathering I need a plug wire with a female end to connect to it. any idea where I can one of those at?
 
usually, I find that it is cheaper to just cut off the male end of an extension cord with whatever length of wire you need. Some come with wires and others with posts like in the link. For the posts, just get a couple of female spade crimp on connectors and you are good to go (home depot).
 
Okay I think I got it now. I was thinking I had to cut off the female end of the extension cord so I would be able to use the male end to plug into the EB8. Is that not correct?
 
Awesome! I read your post again and I see how I confused what you were saying. I truly appreciate the help and patience!
 
What I don't understand is how a peristalic pump could siphon...the rollers in the "stopped" position (when the pump is not functioning) should stop any movement of water within the tubing, no?

At any one time, at least one of the rollers should be compressing the tubing, no?

Help me understand how a DOS unit could cause a siphon, please.


This biggest issue that will allow siphon is the number of rollers and the material of the rollers.

The Dos Only runs two rollers, while this works, many of the higher end peristaltic run 3 to 6 rollers, with a two roller setup there is a chance that in a specific position it doesn't have the tube fully pinched. Its a rather small chance, and well I've never had my DOS loose siphon, as with AWC, you tend to do small frequent changes, so less time to loose siphon.

Neptune probably recommends that the source be below the pump for the off chance that you haven't replaced your tubing before it bursts.

Now Plastic rollers work, but they do not pinch the tubing any where near as tight as metal rollers and heavy duty poly housings. But then again there is a reason that these aren't used, as the heavy duty commercial and lab grabe pumps cost 4x more then these.
 

That is the incorrect solenoid, as for this low pressure system you want one that does not use a pressure differential to assist the opening.

Please go with this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Gravity-Feed-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-DDT-CD-120VAC-/300572674542?hash=item45fb8709ee And get proper hose to tubing adapters.

I have used almost every solenoid from this vendor, as I have aquariums, hydroponics and aquaponics... and each different model has a different use.

Also the push to connect fittings on the 1/4 one are really awful, but one with proper threaded fittings, and then get proper thread to push connect for your tubing, or barbs, what ever you prefer.

Even with a high pressure diaphragm pump on my top off system the "normal" valves need a few seconds to open as the supply side builds up pressure, where as the gravity fed rated ones open instantly.


Another consideration when using solenoids and peristatltics is the use of a pre filter... sediment can really decrease the life of your pump tubing as well as sediment can also cause your solenoid to no longer seal tightly... both issues have caused me floods in the past and have been fixed by using 5 micron cartridge filters after my storage vessels.
 
I apologize for what seemingly might be a simple answer but for the solenoid, it has two prongs and the extension cord has three wires. What do I do with the ground? I was planning on using an outdoor extension cord... is this an overkill or should I use a simple lamp cord? Thanks in advance!
 
I apologize for what seemingly might be a simple answer but for the solenoid, it has two prongs and the extension cord has three wires. What do I do with the ground? I was planning on using an outdoor extension cord... is this an overkill or should I use a simple lamp cord? Thanks in advance!

I don't think it matters what type of extension cord you use tbh.
The only thing here is that the solenoid doesn't have a grounding wire as it most likely does not need it.

Its kinda the same as plugging your Andriod/iPhone charger in an extension cord with a ground socket, it will work.

I'd say buy a better cord which can be used for multiple applications as it will not harm anything and will give you more options in the future if needed.
 
Awesome! Thanks for reply. I feel better using an outdoor extension cord because of the water aspect plus the cord seems to be of better quality.
 
With all of these concerns about siphoning, which is totally valid, why don't you just use a one way valve? BRS has these for 1/4" line for very cheap; they are just push to connect.

I plan on doing water changes with the DOS in my 125 mixed reef build. I am going to try the one way valves first before I add the "complexity" of solenoids. Granted they aren't complex but if you don't need them why go to the extra work of putting them in and controlling them.
 
a check valve gets dirty and needs cleaned regularly or else it will not seal and in many instances for people the siphon is in the direction you would send the water so the check valve would do nothing for you.

That is why a solenoid is needed if this is an issue for you.
 
I have a general question regarding water storage and it has to do with temperature. I was thinking of setting up an 80 gallon SW and 80 gallon ATO container in my garage. Obviously it gets cold in there, now normally not freezing but cold. How do you folks maintain temperature, I have heard of pond heaters and such since they are very resilient. What about water heater blankets and such?

Thanks
 
I prefer leaving it cold - it helps to balance out the temps of the lights and when they are not on, it does not affect dramatically since it is a small amount spread out over time...
 
I keep my water in the shed where it gets pretty cold, 5-10 degrees in the winter and don't use a heater as the water changes are small and insignificant.

During the winter months I leave a light on in there to keep the ambiance temperature a little higher and i also find having a bulb on creates a little air movement. which is always nice.
 
OK here are my thoughts on this.

1. Are you dosing elements in to your tank as well? I am going to assume yes since you are willing to invest in the DOS. With that being the case, why are you looking to do this Automated water Change? Only real reason to do a water change in this configuration is to siphon Detritus out the tank. An AWC with the DOS will not remove Detritus.

That all aside.

The DOS uses Stepper motors so it is extremely accurate for what it is pumping... If you pump the water out for 1000 Rotations and in for 1000 Rotations you will be 1:1 on your water exchange. I would be more concerned with what happens when the Dosing Tub wears out and you now have 55 gallons of Attic Sea water Siphoning in to your house. Not to mention that I would be skeptical that you attic Trusses are designed to support the almost 700lbs of water in a 3 sqft area.

IMHO you would be better If you configured your system to automatically refill after a water change. Such that you could siphon out the Detritus then hit your restore button and have it refill and then restart your pumps. This is my plan anyway for my tank.

If you are hard set on Automated water changes, I would do something like set a Auto Top system with your sea water then from the APEX disable your RODI ATO, and then used a small pump to pump water from your tank to the drain and let the Sea ATO refresh the water.

Just me but the use of a DOS for Water changes seems like kind of a waste.


I saw someone do something similar to this but I've also read that it's a horrible ideal.

1: Hook the Dos to the fresh and saltwater tanks of your mixing station.
2: install a lower flow pump in sump (say 60gph)
3: have mixed salt water slightly higher than desired.
4: have apex monitor salinity and top up either salt or fresh as desired to get set water lvl and salinity.
5: run pump X min daily to drain desired desired water then DOS salt/fresh to refill.

IE ( forget the actual code used)
OFF, return pump, skimmer, etc
ON AWC pump 1 min (1 gallon)
ON DOS
WAIT 60 sec
ON return pump,
WAIT 5 MIN
ON skimmer
 
This is how you would install a DOS w/ a Mixing Station.

This is how you would install a DOS w/ a Mixing Station.

Ok, so I need some input here on a new build in a new house.

I am planning to use a DOS to do automatic water changes.

My tank will be in the study. I had the builder put in a floor drain under where the stand will go. The old saltwater will obviously be routed to the drain. I also had the builder put in two pipes leading from the walk-in attic to the wall behind where the tank will go. One is a large diameter pipe for water changes and the other is a smaller diameter pipe(the same size as used for RO/DI units) for auto-top offs.

I'm planning to have a 50-55 gallon barrel in the attic for mixing new saltwater and this is also where my RO/DI unit will reside.

So, my question is - how can I logistically use the DOS to do automatic water changes knowing my setup? The DOS has to be hooked up to the Apex Gold module. This will be in my stand. How can I use this setup to access/trigger the water change from the barrel in the attic? Or, will I need to manually pump some of the new saltwater from the barrel into another container beneath the stand and then have the DOS access the new water from this container to do water changes?

My mind is spinning here in how to do this properly....any advice would be appreciated.
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VERY SIMPLE @airtime23! I have my mixing station that's 25 ft from my SC 150 Rimless tank! Here is the equipment you need for in order to do your Automatic water changes.
Also, during these water changes you never have to turn any skimmer off or any pumps off while doing a water change with the DOS.

Neptune DOS
Neptune 30FT Tubing or more.
1 EB8 Power Strip
PM2 Module for your salinity w/ Probe
InkBird Temp gauge controller
50ft AquaBus Cable that will connects to your Apex panel which us under my tank.
2 or 3 port TUBE Holder
Stepper Bit from Home depot
Acrylic Rod 12'' qty 2
TIMER - To kick on the pump to mix the salt 5 times a day for 30 minutes.

Above my mixing station, I have mounted a pcs of plywood right above. It has the 6 stage RODI, Booster Pump, EB8 power Strip, PM2 module, Salinity Probe, InkBird Temp Controller, PX40 PANWORLD WATER PUMP mixing my salt on the Mixing Station. Also, I have the options to put on the Banjo fittings if I want to do fast and large water changes or if I need some Fresh RO water I can pump it out at any time.
 
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