UV sterilizer info

[jemw]

Didn't find much in the way of Size/waterflow/duration on UV sterilizer in my search here. I did find this article at peteducation.com which I found useful:

"Contact time: The longer the amount of time the water is being exposed to the UV light, the more killing power is available. The contact time, sometimes referred to as 'dwell time,' is influenced by flow rate of the water: slower flow rates increase contact time. The length of the bulb also affects the contact time; with a longer bulb, the water is in contact with the UV light for a longer period of time. Another variable to consider is the turnover time (amount of time required to have the entire volume of water in the aquarium pass through the sterilizer). Since the 'sterilized' water constantly mixes with the water in the aquarium as it returns, it is impossible to 'sterilize' all the water in the aquarium. That would only be possible if all the water would be removed, sterilized, and then returned to the aquarium at one time. This may result in sterilized water, but would certainly raise havoc with the aquarium inhabitants! Calculating turnover time is mathematically difficult, but can be approximated with the following formula:
9.2 x gallons in tank/flow rate in gallons per hour = number of hours for one turnover"

The article doesn't specify any wattage for the bulb, but I'm not sure it is necessary. If we assume that the unit we purchased is constructed to sterilize the water in it's chamber at it's specified flow rate. A higher wattage bulb would allow for a higher flow rate and more turnover in a shorter time period. (feel free to correct me on this)

Based on my estimate of 120 gallons of real water (after displacement by live rock and equipment) of my 90 + sump and the flow rate of the sterilizer at 210 GPH I would turn over the tank in an estimated:

(9.2*120)/210=5.26 hours

If I were to run the sterilizer for a full 24 hours I would cycle through the tank volume 4.56 times a day.

Next question which remains unanswered at this time would be - do I need to run it 24/7? I'm thinking not. Perhaps 12/7 and see results. Does anyone have any stats on this?

Any additional info would be apprecitated.

 

[slief]

I would absolutely run them 2/7. The bulbs and ballasts will last longer. If you are going to use a UV Sterilzer, don't waste your money on a junk one. Get yourself an AquaUV or Emperor Aquatics. Personally, I would suggest the AquaUV. They make their own bulbs, have great support and lots of detailed info on setup, flow, wattage and tank sizing. Their bulbs and spare parts are widely distributed and only a day away if you are here in So. Cal. I would suggest an AquaUV Classic 25 watt. The bulbs are good for a year and they support high flow levels. That is all I use on any of my systems. The cheap pond rated ones are an absolute waste of money on a marine tank. There is more to the UV than just wattage. The bulb quality is critical the effectiveness of the UV Sterilzer.

The next question is what your intended use for it is. That is what determines the flow.

This is the unit I would suggest and I would also suggest getting one with a wiper as it makes maintaining a clean sleeve and maximum performance of the UV very simple. A wipe once a week with a couple pull/pushes of the wiper will keep the sleeve cleaning and the UV performing at maximum levels. I run a 114 watt AquaUV with a wiper on my 650 gallon system. I have a 25 watt one on the tank at my office which is just over 100 gallons.
http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/products/uvsterilizers/classic/25watt

 

[02tts]

I would absolutely run them 2/7. The bulbs and ballasts will last longer. If you are going to use a UV Sterilzer, don't waste your money on a junk one. Get yourself an AquaUV or Emperor Aquatics. Personally, I would suggest the AquaUV. They make their own bulbs, have great support and lots of detailed info on setup, flow, wattage and tank sizing. Their bulbs and spare parts are widely distributed and only a day away if you are here in So. Cal. I would suggest an AquaUV Classic 25 watt. The bulbs are good for a year and they support high flow levels. That is all I use on any of my systems. The cheap pond rated ones are an absolute waste of money on a marine tank. There is more to the UV than just wattage. The bulb quality is critical the effectiveness of the UV Sterilzer.

The next question is what your intended use for it is. That is what determines the flow.

This is the unit I would suggest and I would also suggest getting one with a wiper as it makes maintaining a clean sleeve and maximum performance of the UV very simple. A wipe once a week with a couple pull/pushes of the wiper will keep the sleeve cleaning and the UV performing at maximum levels. I run a 114 watt AquaUV with a wiper on my 650 gallon system. I have a 25 watt one on the tank at my office which is just over 100 gallons.
http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/products/uvsterilizers/classic/25watt

I'm in the market for one for a 500G DT. In speaking to them they told me min flow is 1226gph and a max of 3186gph, which is a nice size flow, so my question to you is how much flow are you running on yours and do you know how many degrees, if any, it has added to your water? I am really hoping you say .5 or less

 

[slief]

I'm in the market for one for a 500G DT. In speaking to them they told me min flow is 1226gph and a max of 3186gph, which is a nice size flow, so my question to you is how much flow are you running on yours and do you know how many degrees, if any, it has added to your water? I am really hoping you say .5 or less

My 114 watt UV which is what I would recommend for your tank doesn't really add much heat transfer. Not enough that I've noticed or even tracked. 114 watts isn't going to have much impact on a 500+ gallon system plus the water is never in contract directly with the bulbs. They are spaced behind the crystal sleeve.

I run mine on my closed loop and it's fed by my RD3 230 pump which is controlled by my Apex. At night I slow the flow down to conserve power and based on the flow rates of the pump at the given speed, that works out to about 1200 GPH. During the day, it's closer to 3000 GPH.

 

[02tts]

Aside from water clarity has it provided you with any other benefits?


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[slief]

Aside from water clarity has it provided you with any other benefits?


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Difficult to say. I've been running quality UV sterilzers that are setup properly on all my systems for decades and my systems have always been stable and healthy. Some things I have seen first hand is the following. They help with cyano which I have noted with just a bulb change and watched the cyano disappear. That's not to say that you don't need to maintain good conditions to prevent cyano but UV will reduce the spread of it. They increase ORP which I have also noted directly as a result of a bulb change. They help reduce the chance and or spread of ich outbreaks of which I have only had one in 20 years. That was my fault as a large water change using colder water resulted in a fast and large temp swing and there was nothing I or my UV could do to stop it. That is not to say that a UV will prevent ich because it will not. It an help reduce the spread of it though. They eliminate bacterial blooms and will prevent them. I've never had a bacterial bloom since running UV and I attribute to the use of UV. I am sure there is more that I'm not thinking of right now but those are the glaring things.

There are mixed opinions on UV sterilzers effectiveness but having run them for decades and being able to see differences when the bulbs are on their last legs, I swear by them and won't run my system without them. There is really no downside to running one. Only upsides in my experience.

 

[02tts]

Thanks for the feedback.


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