UV Sterilizers

I guess that's the point. If they produced significant oxidizers ,it would have an observable effect on orp . If it produced too many it could be detrimental on a number of levels .
So if redox enhancement is cited as a benefit ,which I don't think it is in most applications , some data to support that notion would increase understanding.
For me there was no observable shift in orp even with relatively large sterilizers suggesting they don't do much to effect redox at leat in my tanks . More data points( size, flow rates, wavelengths etc) would be needed to conclude the potential effect on redox which would be further complicated as redox and organics are very complex and would vary tank by tank in relation to a number of variables.

Again, for your tank and your goals uv may be just fine and I wouldn't change if you are happy with it. I prefer less alteration to organics, and microfauna in mine and have clear water and long lived healthy fish without it.
 
I guess that's the point. If they produced significant oxidizers ,it would have an observable effect on orp . If it produced too many it could be detrimental on a number of levels .
So if redox enhancement is cited as a benefit ,which I don't think it is in most applications , some data to support that notion would increase understanding.
For me there was no observable shift in orp even with relatively large sterilizers suggesting they don't do much to effect redox at leat in my tanks . More data points( size, flow rates, wavelengths etc) would be needed to conclude the potential effect on redox which would be further complicated as redox and organics are very complex and would vary tank by tank in relation to a number of variables.

Again, for your tank and your goals uv may be just fine and I wouldn't change if you are happy with it. I prefer less alteration to organics, and microfauna in mine and have clear water and long lived healthy fish without it.
you do run carbon, purigen, and GFO ?
 
Even large sized they don't control fish disease in recirculating systems.

This is not *entirely* true. Some delicate syngnathids like sea dragons are always housed in systems with huge UV units. It helps control ciliates and mycobacteria that can wipe them out. Granted this is an obscure application, with oversized units, and only necessary because sea dragons are wimps. ;)
 
most intelligent reefer in the internet world support using a uv vs carbon, gfo, purigen, ozone... I'll stick with his reasoning behind it... some info can be found here.... http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=292233&highlight=jerel+reef+tank&page=14
hard to argue with a guy that works for the NOAA and has a job to save reefs.

Having an NOAA avatar doesn't mean you work for NOAA. And possessing Atlantic stony corals doesn't mean you did so legally. ;)
 
SWCC You realize that thread is 8 years old. Don't know the fellow or his IQ but lot's of techniques and knowleged have developed since 2004.
 
This is not *entirely* true. Some delicate syngnathids like sea dragons are always housed in systems with huge UV units. It helps control ciliates and mycobacteria that can wipe them out. Granted this is an obscure application, with oversized units, and only necessary because sea dragons are wimps. ;)

Didn't know that . Never kept one,Thanks for the information.. Just seahorses here . Do they rely on single pass uv set ups for the sea dragons. Without question those will control bacteria. Recirculating systems will give most pathogens a chance to adjust their populations to make up for uv deaths since not all will pass through. Obvioudsly more will with larger units and higher exchange rates. Any examples I can look at.
 
you do run carbon, purigen, and GFO ?

I do run gac and very little gfo. Stopped using purigen about 9 months ago; don't need it any longer.
In fact I haven't changed the gfo in over 6 weeks and I'm considering dropping it alltogether to see if PO4 rises or if there is a balance of nitrogen and phosphorous and organic carbon suitable to keeping PO4 sub .03ppm without it. I might loose a little metals export and silciate export without the gfo which gives me pause though. GAC and skimming handle the organics. Might look to cut back on gac too down the road.
 
Didn't know that . Never kept one,Thanks for the information.. Just seahorses here . Do they rely on single pass uv set ups for the sea dragons. Without question those will control bacteria. Recirculating systems will give most pathogens a chance to adjust their populations to make up for uv deaths since not all will pass through. Obvioudsly more will with larger units and higher exchange rates. Any examples I can look at.

Hmm, by single pass do you mean like an open system? Most units I have seen are on closed system tanks, very oversized with high turnover rates.

Here are some good references, unfortunately no data on flow rates, wattage, etc.
Tennessee Aquarium:
http://www.tnaqua.org/newsroom/bringing_up_seadragons.asp
Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific:
http://www.hotfrog.com/Companies/Fu...ive-husbandry-of-the-weedy-sea-dragon-1185084
Lisbon Aquarium:
www.intaquaforum.org/PROC MONACO I/046-Pereira.doc
 
Thanks for the links. Couldn't find the temperature requirements. I imagine with a large uv a substantial chiller is needed to keep cooler water if they need that like seahorses do. I did note that the Tenesse group engages in daily vacuuming and tank cleaning as well as uv in their recirculating system. I hooked up a 39 watt uv to a 29 gallon quarantine tank a few months ago just to see what it would do vis a vie population density of certain parasites . This was in a basement with room temperature at 69 degrees. With just a little light and no heater the temperature of the water would not come down below 82 degrees F.
 
Swcc, I read the thread. Iit's old and much ofthe information just isn't current. There have been many studies and articles since 2004. Much of what is stated by Bomber is just inaccurate or misleading, AGain if ou like uv ther is no reason not to use it unless you favor more natural organics and microfuana but tanks can run fine with uv. It does clearthe water.

Here are some examples of difficulties I have with the information in the thread:
For example:

Most folks who have tried starboard no longer use it. The glass in a bare bottom fills with coraline just as well and there is no worry about dead space between the starboard and the bottom glass.

An 80 w uv on a 450 tank is not very large.

2 hours of halide lighting for sps is well woefully insufficient.,imo.

Allowing sg to drift from 1.025 to 1.023 as a result of wet skimming without a precise timely replacement strategyas hedoes could be tragic.

The tank was very young ,less than a year old. No long term report is available as the thread died.

The tank was subjected to heavy detritus vacuuming which could account for much of the claimed but unmeasured nutrient control.


Post # 436
SPS don't really care that much about that much flow

They certainly do for polyp stimulation, to bring food to them and for oxygen to name a few reasons.

Post# 531

ammonium, phosphate, etc is removed by skimming.

If you mean macro, like algae scrubbers, that is actually a poor way of removing nutrients. Not only do all algae leak, they are not able to use it all.


No, skimming does not remove ammonia or inorganic phosphate. It removes amphipathic molecules. Neither of those two have that quality.

Macro algae and turf algae use nitrogen and phosphorous. That's pretty common knowledge. They are limited by a lack of it.

Post #636

UV will do everything that ozone will do without the risk of burning your tank up.

Well maybe it will and maybe it won't since there is no data on oxidant production but if it's large enough it can do just as much damage as ozone. In fact the rational for uv effecting redox and organics is that it will produce oxidants ,primarily ozone.

Post# 707


I don't store a lot of organics/detritus in this system that would drive Mg consumption. So it takes a long time for Mg to drop.

So no, I don't worry about it.
That makes no sense,. Magnesium is consumed by organisms in many ways and some is taken up in calcification/ skeletogenisis . Coraline use alot too. the lack of organics and detritus do not mean magnesium is not being used and depleted. Finally there is this:

I'm running the UV for several reasons. For instance, Jay was here a few weeks ago and we went out and collected a whole harem of neons - disease control. All of the coral chemical warfare chemicals are highly sensitive to UV and photo-degrade almost instantly. Most organically bound phosphates are also highly reactive to UV, UV breaks them into ortho-phosphates and they can then be blown off by the skimmer. Water clarity - it's like there's no water in the tank. And a few other reasons too.


It's not effective in fish disease control in recirculating systems.

I've never seen any evidence that it is particularly effective against allelopathic compounds. There are so many organics of different types it is hard to beileve which ones break down more readily in response to different stimulants is known beyond of courseteh obvius removal of yellowing compunds with uv or gac or ozone.

Orthophospahte is inorganic phosphate aka PO4 species. Skimmers do not remove it.

Again in fairness ,these posts are over 8 years old and many articles and studies on organics, magnesium, uv, skimming et alia have been made available since then.

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Thanks for the links. Couldn't find the temperature requirements. I imagine with a large uv a substantial chiller is needed to keep cooler water if they need that like seahorses do. I did note that the Tenesse group engages in daily vacuuming and tank cleaning as well as uv in their recirculating system. I hooked up a 39 watt uv to a 29 gallon quarantine tank a few months ago just to see what it would do vis a vie population density of certain parasites . This was in a basement with room temperature at 69 degrees. With just a little light and no heater the temperature of the water would not come down below 82 degrees F.

Yeah, the seadragons discussed in those links will need massive chillers/heat exchangers in any case--they come from Southern Australia/Tasmania and need around 60-65 degree temp. It is an esoteric application. :D

Regarding that thread linked earlier, long story short is that he was impersonating a federal employee (NOAA) and had poached those Atlantic stony corals (Acropora cervicornis and Colpophyllia natans from what I can see). A nice morality tale about the difference between the internet world and the real world. ;)
 
Having an NOAA avatar doesn't mean you work for NOAA. And possessing Atlantic stony corals doesn't mean you did so legally. ;)

Jerel does(did) work for the NOAA(he is a marine pathobiologist)...and he had the coral legally.
 
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Swcc, I read the thread. Iit's old and much ofthe information just isn't current. There have been many studies and articles since 2004. Much of what is stated by Bomber is just inaccurate or misleading, AGain if ou like uv ther is no reason not to use it unless you favor more natural organics and microfuana but tanks can run fine with uv. It does clearthe water.

Here are some examples of difficulties I have with the information in the thread:
For example:

Most folks who have tried starboard no longer use it. The glass in a bare bottom fills with coraline just as well and there is no worry about dead space between the starboard and the bottom glass.

An 80 w uv on a 450 tank is not very large.

2 hours of halide lighting for sps is well woefully insufficient.,imo.

Allowing sg to drift from 1.025 to 1.023 as a result of wet skimming without a precise timely replacement strategyas hedoes could be tragic.

The tank was very young ,less than a year old. No long term report is available as the thread died.

The tank was subjected to heavy detritus vacuuming which could account for much of the claimed but unmeasured nutrient control.


Post # 436
SPS don't really care that much about that much flow

They certainly do for polyp stimulation, to bring food to them and for oxygen to name a few reasons.

Post# 531

ammonium, phosphate, etc is removed by skimming.

If you mean macro, like algae scrubbers, that is actually a poor way of removing nutrients. Not only do all algae leak, they are not able to use it all.


No, skimming does not remove ammonia or inorganic phosphate. It removes amphipathic molecules. Neither of those two have that quality.

Macro algae and turf algae use nitrogen and phosphorous. That's pretty common knowledge. They are limited by a lack of it.

Post #636

UV will do everything that ozone will do without the risk of burning your tank up.

Well maybe it will and maybe it won't since there is no data on oxidant production but if it's large enough it can do just as much damage as ozone. In fact the rational for uv effecting redox and organics is that it will produce oxidants ,primarily ozone.

Post# 707


I don't store a lot of organics/detritus in this system that would drive Mg consumption. So it takes a long time for Mg to drop.

So no, I don't worry about it.
That makes no sense,. Magnesium is consumed by organisms in many ways and some is taken up in calcification/ skeletogenisis . Coraline use alot too. the lack of organics and detritus do not mean magnesium is not being used and depleted. Finally there is this:

I'm running the UV for several reasons. For instance, Jay was here a few weeks ago and we went out and collected a whole harem of neons - disease control. All of the coral chemical warfare chemicals are highly sensitive to UV and photo-degrade almost instantly. Most organically bound phosphates are also highly reactive to UV, UV breaks them into ortho-phosphates and they can then be blown off by the skimmer. Water clarity - it's like there's no water in the tank. And a few other reasons too.


It's not effective in fish disease control in recirculating systems.

I've never seen any evidence that it is particularly effective against allelopathic compounds. There are so many organics of different types it is hard to beileve which ones break down more readily in response to different stimulants is known beyond of courseteh obvius removal of yellowing compunds with uv or gac or ozone.

Orthophospahte is inorganic phosphate aka PO4 species. Skimmers do not remove it.

Again in fairness ,these posts are over 8 years old and many articles and studies on organics, magnesium, uv, skimming et alia have been made available since then.

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Yeah his answers are short... I have archived threads from another reef forum that goes into everything you pointed towards much more in depth, but, they are not for this thread I believe linking them is not allowed here.
Either way, I trust UV... it works. I do not run anything but my skimmer and UV. Been doing it this way for a long time since the 90's...it works...no drama or dillemas to report regardless of current articles or 'research'. no need to fix anything if it's not broken.
 
Like what?

Studies on skimmers and what they do and don't , studies on gac, probiotic methods, much better sps tanks overall , studies on metals in aquaria , Studies on nightime hypoxiin aquariand the importance of flow and aeration, lot's of information on organics, better info on phosphate, a better appreciation for the role of a variety of bacteria in the aquarium , studies on shallow sand beds vs deep sand beds , improvements in disease treatments, improvements in dips and coral treatments to name a few of the top of my head.

Yeah his answers are short.

Short is ok, but they are inaccurate too.


no need to fix anything if it's not broken.

That's fine if it works for you and your aquarium functions at a level you are pleased with. I wish you continued success.

I'm a toatal quality management type ; always looking for opportunities for improvement. In other words :if it ain't broke find low risk ways to improve it.That's why I get into these discussions. I hope to learn something I can apply as an improvement. Maybe some day I'll use those uvs on the shelf again for a certain applications but I haven't found one that suits me yet. I don't think a uv is needed.

In my case removing the uvs about 4 or 5 years ago ,I can't remember exactly,and beggining to dose soluble organics ( vodka and vinegar) almost 4 years ago has improved coral health, and growth of microfauna as well as sponges, filter feeders and other organisms I consider desireable. There is no fish disease either ; but I do practice quarantine and preventative tank transfer treatments for new fish.
 
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