Variable flow Iwaki MD-100

[buck50bmg]

Well I did it, I installed a AB 160 Variable Frequency Drive to control a 3 phase Iwaki MD-100.

This is the drive and the fuse.

Close up of drive. Im drawing .72 amps or 181 watts. This is running at 45hz. I can go up to 90Hz, 60Hz being the normal line frequency. So I could push the pump to 150% if I wanted to. But that would rip up my 125 gallon tank.

Picture of the pump. Got it on ebay brand new for $25.00

Picture of the top of the tank :eek1:

Picture from under looking up.....

Now I would like to make a circuit to change the freq of the drive (via 0-10vdc input or a 10K Pot) in relation to my lights. Hopefully mimic a normal reef some more.

So am I a geek or what?:rollface:

 

[wife no likey]

awesome!

I'm currently working on a similar setup actually.

Using a somewhat larger finish thompson mag drive head w/ a .25hp 1200rpm motor and one of the cheaper ABB ACS50 drives.


I was also just trying to use a 7091 to provide the voltage control signal for the drive, but can't get it to work.

great score on the pump BTW.

Pete

 

[wife no likey]

and it does seem that you probably gain some decent efficiency, as a single phase md100 pulls about 390w@110.

 

[buck50bmg]

Thanks

We need a circuit to provide, 0-10vdc anywhere in between so the lower setting can still pump.

 

[wife no likey]

yes, from what I've read, the tunze controller outputs variable 3-8vdc.

I'm simply powering the thing w/ a 8vdc adapter, and it seems functional, but I can't get the signal output to change - stays locked at 8v for some reason.

been using this basically:

http://ealex.aqua-web.org/wavebox/circuit.htm

 

[buck50bmg]

I can also use a 10K pot to control freq. Im thinking of connecting a relay , being controlled by my halides. 10vdc so it puts 2.5k on it to lower the flow by 25% when my halides go out.


Or vary it all day on a 2 hr cycle....


Dont know about the tunze controller though. I have a extra 6100 and I need a new driver to make it work. Wish there was a simple to build controller on the net.

 

[buck50bmg]

Oh I looked at the circuit and I think that it still uses the driver box right? If so the voltage isnt going to change. It will go lower if you turn the pot on the driver box but thats all. The add on circuit the guy made is just a on/ off timer.

 

[wife no likey]

yeah I was hoping that the 7091 would work out - it seems that it should theoretically.

I don't need the VFD to vary the flow during the day as I have OM's for that. I just wanted the feed timer and photocell.

 

[wife no likey]

yes, I'm sort of doing the inverse you could say.

using a 7091 just as the control voltage source.


http://www.nordicreefforum.dk/forum_posts.asp?TID=1887

 

[buck50bmg]

So on the 7091 what pins supply power to it? and which ones supply the variable output? I see what you are doing... I have a extra one I can use and I have the photocell. Im very interested. We can make this work!

 

[buck50bmg]

Ok I just looked at the link you sent me. So pin 2 is the input and pin 5 is the output. I wonder if the controller would take 10v? Should huh?

 

[wife no likey]

I'm currently driving it w/ an 8v adapter, but maybe I'll try it out w/ 10.

It's already been somewhat butchered (cut off the DIN)

 

[buck50bmg]

So with the 8vdc input you cant get it to output lower? Are any other of the pins used? How about pin 1 control?

 

[wife no likey]

yes, that is the problem that I'm having. The controller seems functional, but the signal voltage is staying steady no matter what setting I have on either adjustment knob.

From the testing I've done, it seems that three wires are being used:

orange/green - power 8v

red - signal ??

These should correspond w/ the pinout on that one site I just linked.

 

[buck50bmg]

Ok I just looked at mine

I have (verified with fluke)
Pin 2 Green 8v supply
Pin 3 Red Common
Pin 5 Orange Output

So it looks like a 555 timer based controller.

Im going to look at the board before I hook it up.

 

[wife no likey]

maybe I had those swapped. .going to test it when I get home.

 

[buck50bmg]

Ok I just hooked it up to my test drive. It is working like a champ!. The 8v max is the only bummer....but all I have to do is raise the max freq of the drive, so 8v equals 45Hz. So check your wiring, or maybe it needs to see a load to work.

 

[wife no likey]

hey just swapped my wiring around and all is good!

. . quick question though.

On your drive, are you using the +12v output to send voltage to the start connection?

I noticed that you have that that loopback wire on there.

I can't seem to get mine to work with the internal 12v supply.

I have to hook it up w/ an external 12v supply to get the start signal - which I would like to avoid.

 

[buck50bmg]

The drive I have has a 10vdc output for freq control. The loopback is there to enable control from the keypad. I looked at your drive and there is a 10v output. So Pin 2 Green will go to the 10vdc (position 4 ?on your drive) Pin 3 red will go to common (pin 2 on your drive?) and Pin 5 orange will go to (pin 3 speed/adj)

Hope it helps. Let me know!

 

[wife no likey]

yeah I'm rockin' on the speed signal.

. . it's just that the drive seems to need a start signal as well, so I currently also have to hook a 12v power supply up to the other common and the start terminal.

In the schematic they show using the internal power supply to drive the start, reverse, and jog functions - but I can't seem to get it to work.