Vertex Illumina Club

notclear said:
My display tank has a 4" width brace at both ends. Can I mount the mounting legs as illustrated and have the reversed acyrlic mounting brackets (U) rest on the braces?

Note that the mounting leg on the right side does not flush with the fixture.

If OK, should I order the B12 acyrlic brackets and how many should I order? Two sets?

Also what will be the dimension of X ?

thorSvenson: Also before you mount them, can you do the experiment to the above situation to see whether it will work or not, thanks.
Click to expand...

The dimension of "X" is 2" from top to bottom and roughly about 2 1/2" from side to side. You will have about 3" of clearance between the light fixture itself and the surface of the water in your tank, which is normally 1" below the top. The B12 will work out nicely for your purpose, and you will need to order 2 sets (total of 4 legs). If I remember correctly, Mike (Mimbler1) mounted his light exactly the same way as your illustration.
 
Thanks Animadverto. Look like 3" ~ 3.5" distance from the water surface is quite short. My current setup has 4.5" clearance between the fixture and the water surface. That distance of ~4.5" (in respect to tank width front to back) was recommended from their previous manual but I think they took this out.
 
notclear said:
Thanks Animadverto. Look like 3" ~ 3.5" distance from the water surface is quite short. My current setup has 4.5" clearance between the fixture and the water surface. That distance of ~4.5" (in respect to tank width front to back) was recommended from their previous manual but I think they took this out.
Click to expand...

I have my Illumina 260 currently mounted with the mounting brackets. I'm not seeing any problems with sps getting burned probably because there are no optics on the leds and because I have the light dialed down. My previous led fixture was also mounted directly on top of the tank with spider legs mount and never had a problem. I think you'll be ok as long as you don't have your light dialed way up high.
 
Ah, I see you are more concerned with light coverage from the front to the back of your tank. I don't think that's an issue. My tank is 24" from front to back, and the light coverage is excellent.
 
OK then. So the acrylic brackets after screwing at U position will be flush with the bottom of the mounting legs?

I am afraid because of the pre-drilled holes on the legs that after screwing the brackets, the flat bottom of the brackets will not touch the braces.

Can you also confirm that? Thanks.
 
notclear said:
OK then. So the acrylic brackets after screwing at U position will be flush with the bottom of the mounting legs?

I am afraid because of the pre-drilled holes on the legs that after screwing the brackets, the flat bottom of the brackets will not touch the braces.

Can you also confirm that? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Your fear has just been realised. :worried: Inverting the acrylic legs to a "U" shape as you described will leave the bottom of the legs not aligned to the bottom of the aluminum brackets because of the pre-drilled holes. However, there's a fix to this. Captbillm posted this http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/...ube-setup.html back in post #859 on here. Click on this link and scroll down to post #8 and look at the 2nd picture. I think this would work out for you. Good luck.
 
notclear said:
Found it, thanks.

By the look of the mounting, he probably needed to drill some holes on the acrylic brackets.
Click to expand...

You don't need to drill. The pre-drilled holes go all the way through the other side of the legs so all you have to do is flip them around and screw them in.
 
Mounting Light on a rimmed tank

Mounting Light on a rimmed tank

I have a 93 gallon cube tank that I am setting up and I had no troble mounting the light with there mounting kit. You only have to put them on backwards and they clamp onto the tank. For some reason I can't upload any photos to this site so below is a link to my tank build that will show you the light mounting set up.

http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/tank-threads/127854-my-93-gallon-cube-setup.html
 
Vertex Illumina 1500 SR260. I think the settings were white @ 25%, Blue @ 40% and royal blue @ 40% at the time of this photo. Tank is 60"X24"X28". Water level at 25". Tank is 2.5years old, used to run 2X 250W 20K MH and 2 54W Giesemann actinics.

IMG_5956.jpg
 
mariusmeyer said:
Vertex Illumina 1500 SR260. I think the settings were white @ 25%, Blue @ 40% and royal blue @ 40% at the time of this photo. Tank is 60"X24"X28". Water level at 25". Tank is 2.5years old, used to run 2X 250W 20K MH and 2 54W Giesemann actinics.

IMG_5956.jpg
Click to expand...



show off :P :thumbsup:
 
mariusmeyer said:
Vertex Illumina 1500 SR260. I think the settings were white @ 25%, Blue @ 40% and royal blue @ 40% at the time of this photo. Tank is 60"X24"X28". Water level at 25". Tank is 2.5years old, used to run 2X 250W 20K MH and 2 54W Giesemann actinics.

IMG_5956.jpg
Click to expand...

Beautiful tank!
 
Soltware

Soltware

I updated all the software yesterday on the light , the usb transmitter and the fixture. Everything went smooth with no glitches. My tank is not up an running yet so I put the 260 in Demo mode just to watch. I noticed a whole different program as far as the way the demo program ran the lights. It is different than before the upgrades. Has anyone else found this or am I having a problem that I don't know about?
 
I also updated all 3 pieces of software/firmware last night without any issue. But I didn't play the demo. If it is different, may be Vertex just changes the program/schedule for the demo and should not be worried.
 
I am getting ready to install 2 UV modules in my fixture and I'm a little confused by the firmware update process. I know I need to get the latest firmware to support the uv modules, the part I'm confused on is do I select all the pads 0-x to update as part of the firmware or do I only update the added uv pads by themselves? Any clarification is appreciated.
 
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