Volitan and frondosa

they can coexist with no issues at all . i have 2 one orange and one purple along with a volitin and a miles lion fish and a small sea goblin and have never even had a close call that i have seen .
 
they can coexist with no issues at all . i have 2 one orange and one purple along with a volitin and a miles lion fish and a small sea goblin and have never even had a close call that i have seen . :beer:
 
They've now been in a 60g tank together for months.... this is an old thread :-) They finally just moved to their 100g. Soon they'll be joined by the Eschy.
 
He's on frozen foods which I give to him on a feeding stick.

Can you guys please tell me how hardy are these Rhinopias Scorpionfish?
Are they as hardy as Lionfish? Thinking about getting one or two but don't know much about them. There are not many info on these guys on the web.
Do they have to have pristine water? 0 nitrates at all times?
Temp? Salinity preference? Do they need caves to hide in?
Also, how do I get them to start to eat frozen silversides?
Thanks for all the advice in advance.
 
Rhinopias have a reputation for having short lifespans, while lions can live for decades. But it might be a case of providing the right environment. If anyone can do that, it's Renee (seahorsedreams) and Greg (namxas).
 
Can you guys please tell me how hardy are these Rhinopias Scorpionfish?

IME, they're not too sensitive, altho certainly not as hardy as a P. volitans or P.russellii. they're definitely more sensitive to water quality.

we keep ours at 76*F - 77*F, and a SG of 1.023, flow is moderate.

you hear mixed reports on their longevity, altho 5 years or so seems to be the info out there now. however, i think this may be due to lack of a good understanding of their nutrition. we have two Rhinos now, and we've had the frondosa well over a year and the eschmeyeri about a year.

frozen training difficulty was kind of moderate in difficulty, but both of our fish readily take shrimp, assorted fish chunks, squid, silversides, etc. we buy our "fish food" from the fish market. we did have an incident where the Escmeyer's went "stick shy" for a bit after it tried to swallow a feeding stick along with its dinner, and we had to feed it live damsels for awhile until Renee "retrained" it.

here's a vid of the frondosa eating:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zR6PPY8qVnA
 
IME, they're not too sensitive, altho certainly not as hardy as a P. volitans or P.russellii. they're definitely more sensitive to water quality.

we keep ours at 76*F - 77*F, and a SG of 1.023, flow is moderate.

you hear mixed reports on their longevity, altho 5 years or so seems to be the info out there now. however, i think this may be due to lack of a good understanding of their nutrition. we have two Rhinos now, and we've had the frondosa well over a year and the eschmeyeri about a year.

frozen training difficulty was kind of moderate in difficulty, but both of our fish readily take shrimp, assorted fish chunks, squid, silversides, etc. we buy our "fish food" from the fish market. we did have an incident where the Escmeyer's went "stick shy" for a bit after it tried to swallow a feeding stick along with its dinner, and we had to feed it live damsels for awhile until Renee "retrained" it.

here's a vid of the frondosa eating:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zR6PPY8qVnA

Thanks for the info. Watched the video and Wow, he is gorgeous. BTW, what kind of feeding stick is that? Custom made? It looks like it's flexible at the eating end.
If they must have good water quality, how often do you change water in your tank and what %?
Will they tolerate nitrates in the range of 5-10ppm?
My temp is 78.5, salinity 1.024.
Easy to acclimate from shipping?
Thanks again.
 
That's my "Handy Dandy Super Sleuth Safe" Feeding stick... LOL. I can feed everything from the smallest 1" scorp to the biggest old volitans with it. I've had way too many battles with the kabob stick.....

It's just a clear feeding stick with 50lb weight line taped to it.

Link with the feeding stick.
 
If they must have good water quality, how often do you change water in your tank and what %?
Will they tolerate nitrates in the range of 5-10ppm?
My temp is 78.5, salinity 1.024.
Easy to acclimate from shipping?

those nitrate levels are perfect. what i really meant was that if your trates get much above 20, they'll tell you. they get skittish, and swim (these fish DON'T swim). i imagine some may even try to carpet surf.

based on what i've heard from others, i think the fish themselves handle shipping OK (ours came from LFS), however these fish have a tendency to rub their snouts raw against the shipping bag. i have read that one way to prevent this would be to put a bit of heavy grade substrate into the shipping bag so they feel secure.
 
those nitrate levels are perfect. what i really meant was that if your trates get much above 20, they'll tell you. they get skittish, and swim (these fish DON'T swim). i imagine some may even try to carpet surf.

based on what i've heard from others, i think the fish themselves handle shipping OK (ours came from LFS), however these fish have a tendency to rub their snouts raw against the shipping bag. i have read that one way to prevent this would be to put a bit of heavy grade substrate into the shipping bag so they feel secure.

Glad to know that they are not that picky. I know I can maintain 5-10 ppm on nitrates by doing 10% water changes weekly.

As far as shipping, the dealer told me that he never had problems with them shipping.... we will have to see.

Do you guys know if they can co-exist with a 6" Harlequin Tusk. The two that I'm getting are 7" and a 5".

How about Eels? I have a 14" Skeletor Eel and a 12" Golden Moray Eel. Both won't get any bigger than 24".
 
the eels may be prey ,they are small and the mouth on the rinos is huge . i would keep them well fed if i tried . the tusk will be okay just as long as he is large . he wont go after them but if he can fit ion their mouth he is also prey .
 
the eels may be prey ,they are small and the mouth on the rinos is huge . i would keep them well fed if i tried . the tusk will be okay just as long as he is large . he wont go after them but if he can fit ion their mouth he is also prey .

Ok, I guess after QT, I'll have to clear out a tank just for them.

One is a Rhinopias Eschmeyeri ( lavender/pink color) and the other one is a Rhinophias Frondosa (deep Purple color).

I'll post pics whenever they get settle in.
 
as far as "looks" go, and just so you're not alarmed if it happens, one thing to note is they can change color fairly quickly. our purple frondosa is still purple, but our yellow Eschmeyer's is now pink (it's tank is predominantly coralline colored):

at first:

eschy700b.jpg


later:

esch700.jpg


later:

esch700b.jpg


now:

eschymad.jpg


it currently changes to various shades of pink and "tequila sunrise", but is a pretty fish no matter what color its wearing. please DO post pix when you get your fish!
 
Wow, didn't know that. Great pics, what camera are you using? Macro lens?

I've read that they may shed some mucus, to get rid of parasites. So if it's shedding, do it mean it's sick or getting sick?

Just got done acclimating them, they are both in a 125 gallon refugium, that is going to be torn down in a month or so. They are partitioned off, roughly using 45% of it.

The 5" Eschmeyeri is pinkish purple(can't explain the color), she is very clean and not shedding. Once in the tank, it swam up and down a couple of times and now just sits at the bottom looking around.

The 7" Frondosa is a deep purple color, went into a cave and has not moved much. He is shedding all over.

I noticed that both have abrasions on their chin but it's not raw like. I'll post pics when I can. Both eyes are very clear.

Is it normal for them to open their big mouths (like yawning) once in a while?

How do I know they are hungry? I have 12 chromis in another tank waiting to be lunch.
 
Here are some pics I took, the Frondosa is hiding so couldn't get a pic of it. He is behind in the cave.
 

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