Walt's 180
- Thread starter WDLV
- Start date
WDLV
Skunk Hybrid Freak
Sorry If I'm boring anybody with the slow process of this build. I have done very little of this structural, electrical and finish work in the past. This is the most intensive project I've ever done without hiring outside help. It's meant a lot of consulting experts and reading. It's also meant a lot of rewiring and prepping the existing structure in other ways just to be able to hang drywall on the ceiling. I have hung all the drywall that I needed to hang (in that room at least) and I'm on the finish work side of things. I'm hoping to have a coat of paint down inside the week. I've had to leave a couple spots open that will be closed in with plywood so that I can access plumbing and electrical pathways in the future as I continue to improve my home. I've got a good groove going at this point and I hope to have a tank up and running within the month!!! Well, there won't be any saltwater as I expect to have high pH levels to start with.
Here's where I am now.
Here's where I am now.
WDLV
Skunk Hybrid Freak
I've done a lot of calk work around the base of the walls, the drywall to concrete interfaces and around the window. I relocated the overhead light switch from outside the room after unconsciously reaching for it several times inside the room. DUH!!!
The doorway won't be done until I start finish work on the adjacent laundry room.
I'm just about done with the painting. The West wall (left) will be painted blue (like the window) and some trim work needs to be done but otherwise it's getting close to tank move time. I can almost taste the saltwater!
The doorway won't be done until I start finish work on the adjacent laundry room.
I'm just about done with the painting. The West wall (left) will be painted blue (like the window) and some trim work needs to be done but otherwise it's getting close to tank move time. I can almost taste the saltwater!
joeyhatch11
New member
Nice build!
Newbie Aquarist
Reefing is my middle name
Great work so far on the fish room. Sure is alot of outlets in there.
WDLV
Skunk Hybrid Freak
Thanks!
Thank you!
Yeah, after the fire hazard that was my 210 gallon, I decided I would provide what I needed to safely run the system.... Well as safely as one can operate a box of highly ionized water with electrical devices. ;-)
Each bank on the left has three outlets and one switch in case I want to shut off say the skimmer feed and sedras, CL, heater/chiller individually I can without having to unplug this power strip or that or otherwise mess with plugs while I have wet hands.
I'm planning to use two separate heaters. One in the sump and one in the display. That way, I can have a lower temp in the sump (maybe two degrees) and a higher temp in the display. That way, the tides will actually feel like tides.
Here's a proposed schedule. Of course, it may need some adaptation depending on my work schedule and when the tank gets the most viewing.
I made some progress last night. I completed all the white trim painting and did the lion's share of the blue background wall. I'll do the blue trim tonight and I need only frame in the tank's viewing hole.... Then it's plumbing time!!!
First where in bmore? I go to glenn burnie all the time to House of Tropical.
Second if the DT is draining into the sump, how are you going to have a degree or two difference if the turnover flow is roughly 10 times or more per hour?
Third........ Nice setup so far.
WDLV
Skunk Hybrid Freak
- I'm in Rosedale... about 20 min North of HOT. There's a couple other LFS you should check out up here. CTE Aquatics in Timonium... which is run by one of the former owners (Phil) of Exotic Aquatics and Go Fish in Rosedale which is run by some former EA employees (Steve and Johanna.)
- The return pump (Reeflo Dart) will control the tides.
So, when the return pump is off (low tide,) the display heater will maintain the display reservoir at... say 82F and the sump reservoir will be maintained at 80F.
When the return pump is turned on (high tide,) the sump heater will turn off because the display (higher temp) will be draining into the sump..... Now that I'm thinking about it, I might be able to make the temperature a little wider... maybe 4 degrees. I've felt what seemed like a 10 degree thermal layer on a reef. I am one who sees temperature fluctuations as a good thing. My general philosophy being that the wider the swings (temperature, chemistry, etc) that we expose our corals to, the wider swing they can handle when something malfunctions.
- Thank you!
