warm/hot RO/DI water

D

dragonyze

New member
I had a question concerning RO/DI intake water.
Ive read that warming the water before it goes into the unit can increase the pure output, so how about if i hooked the unit up directly to my hot water heater??
the water is set to about 110 degrees from the heater, would this be too hot and therefore damage the RO membrane or other semi-sensitive parts???
thanks for any and all opinions
 
If the wateris too hot you will ruin the membrane, it isnt a good idea to have hot hot water going thru it. With warm water like 70 ish maybe 80 you will get alot more production water.
 
You should not use water from the hot water heater. The TDS is way too high due to sediments in the tank. You will use up your filters in no time.
 
You do not want to hook it up to ypur hot water heater. Not only will you use up your filters in "no time", but you run the risk of damaging the unit, and, in most cases, voiding the warranty.
I read a thread recently where if you have enough feed line, you can coil it in a bucket of warm water before it goes into the system. I actually tried a heating pad wrapped around the feed line, but this did nothing (never know till you try).
 
You will melt the glue that holds the membrane together and it will be useless.

The best way to heat up the water is to coil about 25 feet of tubing in your sump or another source of warm water.

Or just plan ahead and use cold water...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6975132#post6975132 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by aquaman67
You will melt the glue that holds the membrane together and it will be useless.

The best way to heat up the water is to coil about 25 feet of tubing in your sump or another source of warm water.

Or just plan ahead and use cold water...
Click to expand...
and void any warranty you may have as well.

dont hook it up to hot water. do you have the unit collecting into a large container witha float valve and an auto shut off?
 
i am setting mine up now it is in the basement. i went and got a 20 foot peice of hose and wraped it around the heat ductwork. the metal is always warm even if the furace is not running. i have not tryed it yet but it is worth a shot.
 
I did something similar. My line had to run across a heating duct anyway, so I got 29' of line and layed the coiled extra on top of the duct. I don't know how much it will help, but it might bring it up a degree or two.
 
My unit said water that was 74F was the best temp. I believe you can buy gizmos to regulate the hot and cold supply lines to feed the right temp. Our water down here never gets real cold so I haven't looked at it. Straight off the water heater seems a bit much though.
 
My Uniot also suggested between 70F and 74F for optimal filtration. The instructions also said that once you get over 90F the water quality will go down and can cause damage to the R/O membrane causing it to need replacement.
 
right now here in WI, the water from the tap is pretty cold, bet even so, i still can make 5 gallons of RO ina couple of hours. for me thats just fine.
when i get ready to set my 90g up, it will be warmer outside, and I will be able to make more water in that time frame.
 
warm water for RO/DI

warm water for RO/DI

I plumbed a hot and cold copper feed line with single handle lever shut off valves for each (Hot & Cold). After the shut off valves the two copper lines merge into one T which I put a spigot on (like the one you put a garden hose on). It works great in my garage and I can regulate the temp. by how far I open the shut off valves for the Hot and Cold. Hope that made sense.
 
RO/DI Temp.

RO/DI Temp.

I have given this a lot of thought, I just havenââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t acted on it, that being said, my solution to this would to get one of the heat strips, that you would wrap around outside water pipes in the winter to keep them from freezing. Wrap your incoming supply line with this, and plug it in as you begin to draw water.
 
more tds out of the hot water , have you tested it , you draw the water out of the top of the tank anyway i just tested mine is the same as my cold
i use a mixing valve to set the temp on my water to 80 deg and i don't have to change my filters but every 6 mo and so far have not had to change my ro membrane yet ,tap tds-469, ro tds-21, di tds 0-2
 
Re: warm water for RO/DI

Re: warm water for RO/DI

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6987368#post6987368 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by clownchic
I plumbed a hot and cold copper feed line with single handle lever shut off valves for each (Hot & Cold). After the shut off valves the two copper lines merge into one T which I put a spigot on (like the one you put a garden hose on). It works great in my garage and I can regulate the temp. by how far I open the shut off valves for the Hot and Cold. Hope that made sense.
Click to expand...

Not to be harsh... but
This is a horrible idea, you are likely back feeding your hot water heater with cold water -OR- sending hot water through the supply line in the house when another faucet is turned on.

Any time you dead end hot and cold water in a single pipe, you are subject to the problem I mentioned above.

Secondly, you are putting HIGH TDS water into your unit!

For the rest of you:

The "water you save" by heating the water is not worth the cost of the energy (unless it comes from a passive source). In other words heating your RO/DI water is a lost cuase, as the energy to heat the water costs more than the waste water you save.

SECONDLY!!! Adding a long length of small diameter hose will reduce the working pressure and or flow rate of the system, causing the waste water ratio to rise, defeating the purpose.

If you are going to add hose, it needs to be rather large for it be of any benefit.

Bean
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6991646#post6991646 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by javatech
more tds out of the hot water , have you tested it , you draw the water out of the top of the tank anyway i just tested mine is the same as my cold
i use a mixing valve to set the temp on my water to 80 deg and i don't have to change my filters but every 6 mo and so far have not had to change my ro membrane yet ,tap tds-469, ro tds-21, di tds 0-2
Click to expand...

The junk in your water heater circulates through the "pool of water" via convection currents when the heating element turns on. It settles during idle times and does not stir up until heavy water heater use and/or heating cycles.

Bean
 
i use a mixing valve so no feedback , and i drain the junk out of the hot water tank every few weeks , but never do get alot out , it's a new tank and i have a filter on my main line that takes a lot out just becuse our water here is not all that good
so i take care of it before it even get's in the house
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Raptor72
Another RO/DI setup question(s)
Replies
17
Views
129
griss
griss
dogstsx
NEED HELP WITH RO/DI SYSTEM
2
Replies
32
Views
345
griss
griss
Mr31415
5 stage generic RO/DI unit - valve and drain question
Replies
5
Views
290
griss
griss
Mr31415
RO unit: DI resin depletes quickly
2
Replies
25
Views
949
Mr31415
Mr31415
CaptiveReef
Florida tap water and using an RO DI system to prepare water for use
Replies
2
Views
418
jason2459
jason2459
Back
Top