rogergolf66
im an addict lol
Ok this is what I have. any ideas to make it even better? everything will be on one large board I will mount to the wall but I divided it all up on the pic to make it easy to see.
water change barrel setup help
- Thread starter rogergolf66
- Start date
One thought, on the RODI tank. RODI filter will last longer if you keep the cycle long between fill up, hence my recommendation for the following.
Use one float valve for max level, this float will keep the system from overflowing if you have any problem with the DI filling control.
I would use two flow switch, they can be the normal float switch or a optical switch (Grainger has them for about $20).
I would place one switch for normal level, this level is where you want to fill up.
Should be lower then the Float Valve Level.
Second switch should be place at the minimal level, where you want the Tank to start filling with DI water. I believe you have a Apex, that can do this function easy.
If not, I can help you with a latch relay circuit, that would do the same thing.
Just need a couple of relays for this to work correctly.
When everything is built, this is how the filling process should work.
The tank will fill up with DI water, when the minimal level is meant.
An solenoid valve will open RODI line to start the filling process.
The solenoid valve will shut off, when the normal level is meant.
Any issues with the system, the float valve with stop the water if it gets that high.
This system will help in making your filters last longer.
Parts list:
1) 1 x solenoid valve.
2) 2 x float switch.
3) 1 x float valve switch.
4) 2 x relays (if you do not have a controller).
About $35 dollars with normal switches.
About $80 dollars with optical switches.
Use one float valve for max level, this float will keep the system from overflowing if you have any problem with the DI filling control.
I would use two flow switch, they can be the normal float switch or a optical switch (Grainger has them for about $20).
I would place one switch for normal level, this level is where you want to fill up.
Should be lower then the Float Valve Level.
Second switch should be place at the minimal level, where you want the Tank to start filling with DI water. I believe you have a Apex, that can do this function easy.
If not, I can help you with a latch relay circuit, that would do the same thing.
Just need a couple of relays for this to work correctly.
When everything is built, this is how the filling process should work.
The tank will fill up with DI water, when the minimal level is meant.
An solenoid valve will open RODI line to start the filling process.
The solenoid valve will shut off, when the normal level is meant.
Any issues with the system, the float valve with stop the water if it gets that high.
This system will help in making your filters last longer.
Parts list:
1) 1 x solenoid valve.
2) 2 x float switch.
3) 1 x float valve switch.
4) 2 x relays (if you do not have a controller).
About $35 dollars with normal switches.
About $80 dollars with optical switches.
Last edited:
rogergolf66
im an addict lol
That's great thanks. I have to do it manually now by turning the system valve off so it dosnt turn on till I turn it on. The like the automatic ability. Thx for the info. I hadn't thought of that.
Keep them coming any other ideas to improve this design.
Thx
Roger
Keep them coming any other ideas to improve this design.
Thx
Roger
rogergolf66
im an addict lol
Thx. Yes my ato has 2 switches currently
rogergolf66
im an addict lol
ok I have been looking all over for a fitting that will work like a bulkhead, but allow me to connect the airline tubing for the air pumps, the 1/4inch tubing for the autowater changer ,and the tubing for the kalk barrel.
This is all that I found. I would love to find something smaller this seems like over kill.
anybody know where I could find like a john guess push fitting that would also work like a bulkhead?
Roger
This is all that I found. I would love to find something smaller this seems like over kill.
anybody know where I could find like a john guess push fitting that would also work like a bulkhead?
Roger
Ted_C
Active member
just use rubber grommets from lowes or home depot. creates an airtight seal. requires u to drill the hole - but if it's not underwater and going in the top - no big deal. then just snake your tubing through the grommet.
edit: oh I just read you want the ATO hose to work with this too. you could still use the same method I think. As long as the hose from ATO to under the water level in oyur freshwater container is one piece - no breaks or JG fittings - it should pull a vacuum and stay full of water all the time.
Otherwise, this is how I plumbed my ATO with a true bulkhead / plumbing / jg fittings:
From Bulkhead:
Close Nipple
90 deg threaded
reducing bushing
hose adapter (npt thread to a small piece of 3/8" barbed fitting)
3/8" tubing to jg reducing adapter
edit: oh I just read you want the ATO hose to work with this too. you could still use the same method I think. As long as the hose from ATO to under the water level in oyur freshwater container is one piece - no breaks or JG fittings - it should pull a vacuum and stay full of water all the time.
Otherwise, this is how I plumbed my ATO with a true bulkhead / plumbing / jg fittings:
From Bulkhead:
Close Nipple
90 deg threaded
reducing bushing
hose adapter (npt thread to a small piece of 3/8" barbed fitting)
3/8" tubing to jg reducing adapter
Last edited:
aguila88psi
Zoa Addict
Take a standard bulkhead with 1/2" or 3/4" NPT internal thread, then go to home depot plumbing section and get a JG fitting for 1/4 line and NPT thread along with threaded adaptors for the bulkhead to the JG fitting. Then get a airline to 1/4" JG fitting that I believe BRS sells.
Or just take standard bulkhead, attach PVC pipe with cap or threaded cap, Drill a hole in the middle to match airline splice adaptor, glue one side of adaptor and presto. Do this on both sides with inner tubing attached prior to glueing and you have the same setup as the lifeguard airline bulkhead kit.
Or just take standard bulkhead, attach PVC pipe with cap or threaded cap, Drill a hole in the middle to match airline splice adaptor, glue one side of adaptor and presto. Do this on both sides with inner tubing attached prior to glueing and you have the same setup as the lifeguard airline bulkhead kit.
