Water cooled led system

lice thing about large projects as there is plenty to do..I am taking a break from the buffer until the cold front comes threw its hot in that tank even w/the ac blowing into it..
 
I would weld the whole deal, not much point being able to open it up especially on a flat or large finned hot plate... If it had dirty water running through it, maybe, but you should be using basically engine coolant. You really don't want it coming out over the tank.

You also want to force the water to spend some time in the plate, so you really want to channel it. I would make an S type shape, input from one corner, loop back and forth then back out. Along each wall you can add pass-throughs, where appropriate, by substituting part of the wall with a tube, then drilling out the plate.

In the end i would expect something like this:
|------------| V-In
| ----O-----|
|-O------O- |
| ----O-----|
|------------| ^-Out

Size wise i would make the plate fairly thin, channels wide enough that its comfortable to weld. Welding the internal fins to the cover plate will be more 'fun' than welding them to the bottom (where you can weld on the inside). But i expect you know what must be done to weld the fins to the cover.
 
I would omit the passthroughs. You want to keep the water moving and creating alternate paths could allow stagnation.
 
I understand your point about tim the tool man ...ruf ruf ruf..lol..I have to admit I am a lot like that..you should see my hot rods he only wishes..lol..welding it up solid was my fist choice(trying to hide some of the welds ..welding it from the out side is like a ton of welding..jury still out on that..yes that's what I thought about the pass threw ... inside I will use some 1/2 x1/2 flat bar and weld the snake onto the plate..those can be spot welded...that amount of welding on the outside concerns me about warping ..
 
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this is an canon box I made for a 30 x 30 with auto motive style lights from china the ones that are missing were the uvs I made out of 10mm chips . this has been dismantled for parts.. very, very , very, bright the stainless grid allowed for mouting and flow past the diodes ..this slides into a box with a fan only for cooling ..the diodes are mounted into a aluminum threaded housing with nuts..very good piece for the money 7 watts each.with built in optics ..around 300 watts at 100% but ran at 65% from 30" from water twice my d-120s
 
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