Water cooled led system

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its on its side ..it had a t5 fixture on it before..the water level is about 1.5 inches from bottom of the opening..I plan on lowering the stand for more over the top viewing "with out a step ladder..lol..I am open for all options and thoghts my mind is not made up at all but I am not afraid of better ideas that's why I joined this forum I have been just reeding for years and never posted until now..I have other diy led experience on smaller tanks but this is going to be a show piece in my office. Also all my years of experience and craftsmanship , the light fixture has to be amazing ..and the envy of all led light fixtures..lol..
 
one of the reasons not halide is the lack of coolness ..you know dusk to dawn with the pop.and all the fine adjustments threw my reef angel.you just cant get it with mh in tiny fixture.."the wow factor"
 
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Sure, but why LED?

A single MH bulb could deliver 1000W.

What are you trying to do better? More efficiency? Lower power use? Highest light density?
 
I see a fixture that sits in the hole maybe 1 inch from side flush with the surface ..with no optics I should get the spread but not the penetration that's why I feel I need to have so many high power drivers and by using the larger multichip sets the uv and specialty drivers also it should be like making a large multichip out of multichips..there are so many to choose from.. less components into the fixture, with the higher wattage but also less space to work with..
 
I don't want a large fixture over the tank with loads of blow out..Iwant to keep sps so I say density is what I am after..good point sir..
 
Ive had fixtures when there that close to the top ..with lets say 3w have localized collar blead and blow out close to the top of the tank..even with out optics its still there the multichips seem to do better at blending the collar more evenly when at closer distances .That's one thing I can improve upon with a densely pacted fixture...
 
1000w of mh does not match the penetration of 1000w of closely packed leds..no way even without optics ..the heat from that 1000w of tightly packed led array is what concerns me with my idea of small fixture. I believe there is a way ..
 
here is my first draft "idea" this is total of 1700w there should be enough representation to tune to the desired color .any thoughts??I have seen using the 10w uvs that if you want to get any pop from them they must be High wattage to be seen threw with whites..in my 75g I have 40w and would like 3x more while the whites are on..with a total of 365w 40 of being 405nm 365 at 100 %blue 70% white d-120s and ct-light 85w 40w uv supplement ..I like the control ability of the multiple channels.
 
I've built all my puters with liquid cooling loops and building a liquid cooled LED light has always appealed to my more computer orientated side. I've even thought of trying the AIO liquid coolers (eg: Corsair H80) on an Ecotech radion G3 Pro.

Couple things need to be know first.

DO NOT MIX METALS. Try and stick with copper for your cooling blocks and radiators. Mixing aluminum and copper or steel will result in catastrophic failure within two years due to dissimilar metals within an electrically conductive loop (think anode/cathod with alu being the anode). You'll also clog the blocks and even maybe the tubes with goop from the melting metal that was the weakest in the loop.


USE PURE WATER WITH A BIOCIDE. Yeah, well you should already have pure water with RODI. All you need is some type of copper sulfate to put in the loop. Look up Mayhems liquids, best guys in the world for that stuff. Or a strip of 99.99% pure silver or copper. Make sure you get the less chances possible for the loop to leak in the tank or you'll have nightmares for years.

LAW OF DIMINISHING RETURNS. At one point adding fans and rads just becomes redundant. Rule of thumb in liquid cooling is 80w TDP of power per 120X120mm radiator. Do the math and you should be pleased with the results. As a more precise measurement, 164w of power at 1gph flow will raise the water 1c after the block (1/2" ID tubing using a D5 or MCP355). It keeps rising if you have no way of exporting the heat (rads). Plan accordingly.

24H TESTING REQUIRED. Always run your loop with only the pump to see that there are no leaks. You're gonna run some expensive stuff and if it gets wet you may get mad... hehe.

Don't buy cheap, you're talking liquid and electronics (sometimes expensive). D5 pumps would work very well for what you're gonna do.

That said I saw nothing but your diode plans for the loop. You have anyother drawings of what you wanted to do with the cooling loop?
 
the first picture is a aluminum receiver I made for my race car (its getting new cooling system as well) that will work good *** a supply holder with level, the second is a small radiator ($40.00 on ebay free ship, snow mobile radiator) that I modified (its new) it measures 15" x 8.5" w/fan ..the third is the material that I pick up today ($0.0 dollars) and the last pic. is me holding the aluminum plate (33" x 14") ..After considering all methods I believe the closed loop is the best idea to try first..I have a new Jegs brand constant duty fuel pump 110. gph at 10 psi. I will start welding up the exchanger after I figure out my layout in my head the paper .. the 1/5 " x 1" flat bar will be used as the edge seal most likely weld it from inside then machine a o-ring grove into it for a removable top also less overall welding I also considering just making a flat bar frame the screwing both sides to the frame with o-ring and some rtv. therres the wires from the diodes will have to pass threw some where so its time for the old thinking cap...any suggestions ??
 
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