Water cooled leds

Ebay cpu pump , cpu pumps are ideal due to their long MTB , will be running two for redundancy

Not a mountain bike trail, not a mortgage payment...MTB, what is it?

How exactly did you achieve heat transfer from the LED into the water?

Any idea how hot the water entering the radiator is?

I thought of this before, but it seemed like a pipe dream. I love it!

Would one of those little thermostat buttons like they use on attic exhaust fans work as a safety? They are inexpensive and I'm pretty sure they come both NC and NO.
 
Ebay cpu pump , cpu pumps are ideal due to their long MTB , will be running two for redundancy

Not a mountain bike trail, not a mortgage payment...MTB, what is it?

How exactly did you achieve heat transfer from the LED into the water?

Any idea how hot the water entering the radiator is?

I thought of this before, but it seemed like a pipe dream. I love it!

Would one of those little thermostat buttons like they use on attic exhaust fans work as a safety? They are inexpensive and I'm pretty sure they come both NC and NO.

Hehe sorry mtbf , meantime between failure.

I'm using cpu water blocks to pull the heat out. They are cheap as on eBay.

Water temp in the reservoir is about 35c or about 10c above ambient when running the LEDs at their limit.

Yeh I have a thermal switch that I could use just need a flat sensor so I can get the temp between the heatsink and led.

I'll probably double the amount of leds I have soon and run them at lower power to get better efficiency and more coverage but I love the kessil effect of the light :)
 
Hehe sorry mtbf , meantime between failure.

I'm using cpu water blocks to pull the heat out. They are cheap as on eBay.

Water temp in the reservoir is about 35c or about 10c above ambient when running the LEDs at their limit.

Yeh I have a thermal switch that I could use just need a flat sensor so I can get the temp between the heatsink and led.

I'll probably double the amount of leds I have soon and run them at lower power to get better efficiency and more coverage but I love the kessil effect of the light :)
You don't really want to put the sensor under the LED PCB it will interfere with heat transfer.

Since the heatsink is water cooled the best place to mount a sensor would be the top side of the PCB. Use a small sensor and scratch off the surface coatings of the PCB down to metal somewhere that doesn't interfere with the electrical traces like next to the "LED-" text and thermal epoxy the sensor onto the bare metal of the PCB.

Some PCBs have a thermal sensor pad on them but doesn't look like those do.
 
I used a standard HSF from a modern CPU for a 150W LED multichip for 2 years with no problems, now I use the makers LED heatsinks for the multichips, plent of space to spread the heat out. The water cooling I'm sure is very effective.
 
You don't really want to put the sensor under the LED PCB it will interfere with heat transfer.

Since the heatsink is water cooled the best place to mount a sensor would be the top side of the PCB. Use a small sensor and scratch off the surface coatings of the PCB down to metal somewhere that doesn't interfere with the electrical traces like next to the "LED-" text and thermal epoxy the sensor onto the bare metal of the PCB.

Some PCBs have a thermal sensor pad on them but doesn't look like those do.

That's a good idea and easy as I have some thermal expox sitting around. :beer:
 
I used a standard HSF from a modern CPU for a 150W LED multichip for 2 years with no problems, now I use the makers LED heatsinks for the multichips, plent of space to spread the heat out. The water cooling I'm sure is very effective.

I looked at those, for me it's about allowing sunlight into the tank, my tank gets a lot of sunlight sort of why I went watercooled as the sun would heat up the heat sinks.
 
Needs a flow switch inline with the power supply so if water doesn't flow the lights don't come on. They are pretty cheap, just need to find one that doesn't need much pressure to open. I have one that may work for you at the office, ill check tomorrow.
 
Needs a flow switch inline with the power supply so if water doesn't flow the lights don't come on. They are pretty cheap, just need to find one that doesn't need much pressure to open. I have one that may work for you at the office, ill check tomorrow.

Nice I didn't think of that, actually u could just have it in for the dimming line.

Thanks for having a look
 
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