Waterfall Turf Algea Filter: CHEAP and EASY to build

Since in this design the algae will be submerged at all times why not place multiple "baffles" in the water flow direction. If you line them you can easily fit 4 -5 with light source suspended over the center of the sump.
But I guess you really just have a refugium with macro algae and why not do it in a better fashion....
 
Danorth, in that drawing, the algae will be under water all the time and it needs an aerobic zone to grow in at its best. And, the surge is a benefit that you wouldn't have in that scenario. In that picture, you would do better with it in the center chamber, horizontally floating on the water surface. The ability to easily remove the algae for "harvesting" is a benefit that you don't have with a "normal" refugium where you just reach in and grab it.
 
Yeas AFAIK that dry time is crucial. Otherwise it's just a refugium.

How about in danorth's drawing if you suspended the algae netting from above, then use a windshield wiper motor to slowly lift and lower the algae into and out of the water?

Sounds a little crazy (ala R. Goldberg), and there's probably a better option than the WSwiper motor.
 
My reading of Dynamic Aquaria is that the point of the surge in Adey's design was to flash (rock the filaments back and forth) the turf. This exposes more of the turf to flashes of high light and breaks the boundary layer over the turf for improved gas exchange. At least that is how Adey explains it. Adey measured production of his ATS by measuring overall O2 level when the ATS was on. When he ran the ATS without surges to flash the turf there was an immediate reduction in O2 levels.

So I'm not sure that soaking and then drying out a vertical screen has any merits because it does not flash the turf.

Thats not to say that I'm convinced that if you don't flash the turf the filter is useless. The dynamics of our aquaria are much different than Adey's models, especially with respect to turnover rates through the sump/filter. Getting the flash is the hardest parameter to achieve in Adey's ATS. But throwing out the filter because its too difficult to achieve the flash is to me like throwing out the baby with the bathwater.

For those people who want to try vegetative regulation of tank parameters this stationary vertical vegetative filter is a better bet than a eutrophic-condition indicator specie like Chaetomorpha linum bobbing in a sump under a PC lamp, IMO. It was in my plans for my second reef tank before this thread started and although the claims made for and against it in this thread are pretty outrageous I still plan to use it. To avoid the comparison to an ATS I would just call it something completely different - like a V.V.F = Vertical Vegetative Filter.
 
danorth,

As mentioned above, you need to have the algae exposed to air at least part of the time if you plan to grow turf algae. Otherwise you'll only have turf grow just at the surface.

Matt
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13332232#post13332232 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by miwoodar
Rngrdave - you set up a hybrid SM system wherein you added a TS to your existing equipment. IIRC, 0.8ppm phosphates (my son, what in the world have you been doing to get a phosphate reading of 0.8?) and 20 ppm nitrates. Have you seen any significant drops? Test kits used? Did you hold everything else constant? Water changes? Major skimmer cleanings? Detritis removal? What traditional methods have you tried in the past that have failed?
Click to expand...
The only changes I have made to this tank in a year's time are the addition of a scarlet hawkfish 4 months ago and an MSX 160 skimmer. Phosphates are high because of detritus buildup in my refugium from awhile back. I had a shallow sand bed and have since upgraded it to a DSB. I rarely do water changes and so I'm looking for something to consume the phosphate. I do not have an algae problem, the coral is doing well and has split several times but I am not getting coralline algae like I used to. Because of the phosphate... I have an auto-top off RO/DI system and test the water regularly with a TDS meter. It always reads 0ppm.

As for traditional methods, I use lots of live rock, macro algae, carbon dosing, ozone, UV, skimming and wet/dry filtration. I have a healthy cleanup crew and I regularly clean out my prefilters which catch detritus from the tank. I am not looking to replace any of these... Just supplement them.

I am holding everything constant. What good is testing the system if you are going to change several things? ;) The tank, overall, has been running for 8 years and has gone though various upgrades and it's running VERY stable now. I clean a light algae haze off the glass once every 2 days. I have not cleaned the skimmer at all. It needs it but I'm refraining from it. All I do is dump it once a week or as needed.

I use Instant Ocean test kits for Nitrate and Phosphate. I also test for and dose iron, iodide, magnesium and calcium. pH is 8.3 and SG is 1.026. I keep the temp at a constant 80 degrees.

I have taken some pictures after 2 days but haven't taken any others yet (been busy). There is some growth forming on the screen with some brown diatoms and some green hair algae. The system surges very well but I think I may need to add a fan. It gets very hot in the trash can with two light sources beaming down. I have not seen any changes in N or P levels yet but I don't have the growth that others have demonstrated yet either.
 

I am holding everything constant. What good is testing the system if you are going to change several things? ;)
Click to expand...

That is a voice of wisdom that only comes with experience.


As for traditional methods, I use lots of live rock, macro algae, carbon dosing...
Click to expand...

Just to be clear, you mean GAC, right?


You have enough filtration for two tanks! Kick me some of that stuff, will you? You've gone as far as UV and ozone but never tried GFO?


Regarding phosphates - your kit, like nearly everyone elses in this hobby, has been incorrectly designed. As you're probably already aware, unless you're using a photometer, 96.742 times out of a 100 you can just throw your phosphate kit in the trash. Your case might be an exception since your phosphates are 0.8. However, when they start to come down a more accurate testing method becomes more and more important. I think there is one reagent based HACH phosphate kit (#19 rings a bell but I wouldn't bet a dollar on that) that I've seen Randy recommend but the photometer is definitely the way to go. Does anyone in your area have one? Maybe your local reef club? A local maintenance company?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13337817#post13337817 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by miwoodar
That is a voice of wisdom that only comes with experience.



Just to be clear, you mean GAC, right?


You have enough filtration for two tanks! Kick me some of that stuff, will you? You've gone as far as UV and ozone but never tried GFO?


Regarding phosphates - your kit, like nearly everyone elses in this hobby, has been incorrectly designed. As you're probably already aware, unless you're using a photometer, 96.742 times out of a 100 you can just throw your phosphate kit in the trash. Your case might be an exception since your phosphates are 0.8. However, when they start to come down a more accurate testing method becomes more and more important. I think there is one reagent based HACH phosphate kit (#19 rings a bell but I wouldn't bet a dollar on that) that I've seen Randy recommend but the photometer is definitely the way to go. Does anyone in your area have one? Maybe your local reef club? A local maintenance company?
Click to expand...

stop it...just STOP IT!!!!!!

soda just spewed out of my nose while reading this!!!:lol: :lol: :lol:
 
5386mini-ATS1_005.jpg
5386mini-ATS1_004.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13338929#post13338929 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by InlandAqua
i had a heck of a time posting these pics ....sorry
go to my image gallery for bigger pics
Click to expand...


FWIW if you post them on photobucket or another hosting site first it makes it much easier IMO.

Chris
 
Inland - good to see some tank pics in this thread! I thought you were selling out of that tank and/or system. No?

Do you have any SPS-dominant display tanks? Are you propagating SPS using an ATS?

How do you maintain your parameters past Ca, Mag, alk? Do you test and dose for anything further? I'm asking because I do water changes *very* rarely as well....two between June 07 and August 08. I have no nitrate or phosphate concerns. It's the little stuff that worries me.
 
we propagate sps in the warehouse systems...they are all ATS systems.
the 125 tank that you see is mainly to show how little you have to do to a tank as far as dosing and water testing. We have not dosed any cal, mag, ...anything. We rely on the oolitic sandbed to dissolve and maintain the calcium level....it runs about 350.
We dose kalk in the warehouse systems...they are so big that is the only economical way to do it....35,000 gal.
 
That's cool InlandAqua. Thanks for the pics. The next time I visit my inlaws in Millersburg, maybe I can take the long way home through Terre Haught and take a look.
 
wow 2 water changes in 15 yrs thats what im talkin bout. i just got my 12x12 screen today for my 75 gallon. runnin a skimmer also. though well see if the nitrates and phosphates come down.
 
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