Waterfall Turf Algea Filter: CHEAP and EASY to build

Honestly, I would have issue with several of the statements

o Will wipe out all algae growth in the tank, since nitrate and phosphate will be zero.

o Allows you to feed very high amounts without causing nuisance algae growth in the tank.

o Will finally allow coralline to grow, since the phosphate will be too low stop it.

o Does not skim out coralline spores like a skimmer does.

o Can replace waterchanges, if the purpose of the waterchange is to reduce nitrate or
phosphate or algae growth in tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13059926#post13059926 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sjm817
Honestly, I would have issue with several of the statements

o Will wipe out all algae growth in the tank, since nitrate and phosphate will be zero.

o Allows you to feed very high amounts without causing nuisance algae growth in the tank.

o Will finally allow coralline to grow, since the phosphate will be too low stop it.

o Does not skim out coralline spores like a skimmer does.

o Can replace waterchanges, if the purpose of the waterchange is to reduce nitrate or
phosphate or algae growth in tank.


YEP!!!
 
Yes there will be lots of pics; I ordered the very parts that I'll be listing, and I'll be building it per the directions myself. As for the expectations and absolutes, these were just extrapolated from those who have used turf before, and were pretty much true. Most current users (and myself) report N and P to be basically zero, and this is the basis of the entire project: Turf reduces N and P. Now if you are saying that turf does not reduce N and P, then we have to look at things differently. But assuming it's agreed that turf reduces N and P...

From a decide-to-build-it-or-not standpoint, things like "removes" makes it easier for a beginner to take the plunge (kinda like a TV infomercial ad) than if it says "reduces", which a beginner would then have to question ("would it reduce enough?"). And the main factor here is that if some facet of it actually doesn't work, it's not going to harm anything, and they haven't really spent any money.

The bucket screen is two-sided, so that's why one-inch instead of two; it's also extremely easy to remember for a beginner, and easy for them to recommend/explain to their friends. If they do a one-sided sump version, we'll have to see if it's enough based on light, flow, etc. This will apply a lot to the nano people (matter of fact I'm testing now a 6 inch screen in a 5 gal nano; took one minute to cut the screen and place in the filter section, and clip on a light). As for the other points, again assuming it's agreed that turf reduces N and P...

o Will indeed remove algae in display, eventually, due to low N and P.
o Can indeed feed much more, again due to low N and P. (turf will just grow more)
o Will indeed allow coralline to grow, due to low P.
o Does not indeed skim out coralline spores, assuming there is no skimmer.
o Can indeed replace N-and-P-reducing waterchanges, since N and P will already be low.
 
Why are you so bent on pushing people towards algal turf systems?

Many easier methods exist from both a hardware and a maintenance standpoint. This is especially the case for beginners that have so many other obstacles to overcome. If anything, I would call an ATS system *overly complicated* and *unnecessary*. I've had one before and I don't think I'll ever go through the hassle of setting up and maintaining one ever again. I became a better reefer the day it broke and started investigating other methods.
 
BTW - I'm not here to bash ATS systems. I used to be a huge proponent of them until I came to the realization that I didn't need to go through all of that work to maintain a successful reef.
 
I want people to try them because the more that do, the more we'll understand how we can all use these thing better and properly. As for an ATS, first I'd have to say that we might not want to use that word, since it is trademarked to mean the dumping device that Aday patented. So yes I'd agree that an ATS proper, is too overly complex and unnecessary. Which is why I came up with a bucket design. I did at first try to find a real "ATS" (with dumping mechanism) that I could buy, new or used, but they basically don't exist because Aday did not go the route of aquariums (he instead went industrial/commercial). You say you had one and it was not worth the hassle; I'd agree, because it looks like a huge and complex and noisy device with lots of salt spray. But my bucket version is not.

As for "hardware" and "maintainence" and "work", I can't see how (for example) a 5 gal bucket with a pvc pipe and clip-on lights that only has to be "attended to" once a week is more work than: Buying a fuge; making space for a fuge; plumbing a fuge; cleaning a fuge; buying a skimmer; making space for a skimmer; adjusting and cleaning a skimmer; cleaning sponge filters; buying filtersocks; cleaning/replacing filtersocks; dealing with or worrying about macro getting into display; etc. All of this, and you still end up skimming food out that the corals wanted, and leaving in N and P that you now need to remove using other methods.

In other news, the 5 gal nano test has been a few days, and has just started to show turf growth (was not pre-seeded). Concurrently it's showing that P has begun to start coming out of the rocks (patches of algae on some rocks but not on rocks right next to it.) I'll have pics and measurements in a few days.

I had my first "scare" with the turf... I turned off the wrong switch and ended up turning off the flow the turf for six hours, even while the fan stayed on (lights were off at the time though.) I thought much of it may be dead, but when I touched it it was still moist because of the puddle that stays in the bottom of the bucket. It's back to normal now.
 
you convinced me, im gonna try one.

miwoodar: curious as to what you ended up replacing your ats with. seems like the ats is as easy as most of the other regular filtration equipment.
 
When I have the money for it, I'll be using this to filter a new tank.

I'll be getting rock from TBSaltwater, and hopefully this will ensure that more of the hitchhikers survive.

Also, thanks for the credit. :)
 
I didn't use a dump bucket. Mine was built into a Carlson surge device that I made. I went back to the very basics after it broke - skimmer and lights. The system progressed to the Berlin method over time and improved as I went.
 
I'm going to see about modding one of these:
http://www.fish.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=701001&srccode=FSHSHPNG

I have one sitting around, I was thinking of putting in a divider and doing one of your spraybar designs on the back of the tank.

Or would it be better to have a seperate turf filter?

Okay... now I'm thinking of having a "box" on top where the filter feeds back into the tank.

Light with something like this... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110137489588&_trksid=p2759.l1259

Hmmm...

Any thoughts?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13067147#post13067147 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by miwoodar
The system progressed to the Berlin method over time and improved as I went.

yeah, this is the same expensive journey that i took.

i went and 'tried' all these different methods etc only to gravitate naturally back to the berlin method.

looking at your sig...my method is very similar to yours except that i dont utilize a po4 reactor. really, the only deviation from berlin is the vodka and i occasionally dose amino's.

as for ats', i think the bucket version is a great design. it has taken an historically complicated cumbersome piece of equipment and streamlined it down with no moving parts (except of course the pump). is an ats for a noobie? i think most have a hard enough time grasping to balance everything that comes with reefing. i can see the benefits of the ats for a fowlr tank and even maybe a softie/hardy lps tank.

there have been excellent discussions and articles about skimmers. i would not disconnect a skimmer unless one has a good water change regime to dilute and remove all the nasties that a skimmer removes and an algae based filter cant.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-08/rhf/index.php
 
seaskraP: Maybe you can take pics of what you would be starting out with, and then pics of your building and installing process. N and P measurements would be cool too.

mekanic: I guess you mean the money for the tank, not the turf :) Maybe you could try a 10 square inch screen on your current nano? As for that 2 gal thing, do you mean use it as the entire bucket, or actually make a 2 gal nano tank with "a spraybar on the back"? If just for a bucket, I'd use a white one because it really seems to reflect a lot of extra light into the turf. And your "box on the top"... I think what you mean is what I'm testing now on a 5 gal nano... it came stock with a little horizontal sponge filter compartment on the top. I will post pics soon. The LED lights I think would not have enough output to energize the turf; I think those lights are just for decoration (and they are very cool... would like to try some blue ones behind the rocks.)

miwoodar: Have not ever used a surge device, but the drawings do look cumbersome; I guess I can see one breaking like yours did. But I guess a better question would be was your turf doing its job while it was working, or not. Because at least with my bucket version, a new pump or timer might be the only thing I would need to replace to keep it going. So it breaking is really not the issue; it's the performance. As for turf for newbies, that's why I'm trying to simplify their understading of using it; if they can just think "ok, to reduce N and P, I need a screen with flow and light", then they can install it wherever they can fit it, and provide us results as to how it works for them. And since most of them will not be starting with sps, it's a nice match.

bergzy: You say you had some turf not doing it's job, and you eventually dropped it? I like the "historically complicated cumbersome piece of equipment" description of the 30-year-old dumping design. Who knows, maybe it was patented just because you can patent "devices", and he thought a simple "flow" design would work but couldn't be patented. That skimmer article you linked (I think I read it last year) reminds me of the very thing that got me thinking about turf: "In general, nitrite, nitrate and phosphate will not be directly skimmed out of seawater because they do not adsorb onto air water interfaces." Turf, of course, uses these things directly. As for removing the "nasties", my current reading is of skimmerless setups, and I still have not found a chemical/substance of major importance that is not dealt with by turf. My last two suspicions were ammonia and metals, but even Aday's patents clearly describe turf's advantage of taking up both. My main interest still lies in N and P however.

Side note: Could everyone take a moment to go to the end of this thread (bottom right hand side) and rate it?
 
Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate are all Nitrogenous Nutrients... algae by preference will use Ammonia first, but then that is usually not present in sufficient quantities in the aquarium (used up fast by the bacteria dealing with the nitrogen cycle) so it is a limiting factor... Most algae will switch to Nitrate when Ammonia is limiting... But all three are nitrogen based substances...

As for metals... some are taken up by plants or algae... Iron and copper for two... others as well. But some are not.

Skimmers remove most Ions, and most polar molecules... this is because water itself if highly polar... meaning it has oposite charged ends of the molecule, attracting negatively charged ions or molecules to the hydrogen side of the V and positively charged ions or molecules to the Oxygen side... So if the molecule is has this sort of polarity, the skimmer will generally pull them out... so the skimmer is not so much pulling out Phosphate directly, or nitrate directly, although it will pull some of these out as well, but it si pulling out the proteins and amino acids that will eventually break down into these things (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, etc.)

So while it may not pull as much of these nutrients out directly, it definitely keeps the levels down dramatically.

Just FYI
 
Clarification:
It would be a 2 gallon hex tank with an overflow in the back.
I was considering a little ATS in the back, but on second thought, decided that an "over the tank" unit would be better. ( Or maybe under. Still kicking it around in my head). Or, just go with the ATS in the back... decisions, decisions... I have a quad 27w/9w unit I'd use to light it. I could put mylar on the back part of the tank to increase the light levels. As I said, still kicking it around in my head. I just wish the local plastics place had better hours. They're the only game in town, and only open 8 to 4 M-F, since I work 7:30 to 5:00 most days, this presents problems.

The 2g would be for keeping a G. viridis (sp) mantis - they only get to be about an 1" long, and are pretty much homebodies. A 2 gallon tank is probably more space than they actually use in the wild. I know someone who has one for sale... I just need to talk them into a reasonable price. (I'm not paying $1 a mm for a mantis that's 3cm long. ;) )

Given the 2g size, trying to fit a skimmer on this would be a hassle and a half, but a small ATS would help with uptake of nutrients, plus I'd do weekly water changes. The pod production from the ATS would be good too, help feed the mantis a more natural diet. At that size, they're pretty much only a threat to stomatella snails,or bristle worms.

As for the LEDs, they do look cool. I'm considering a 20" bar for my 10g. Having a blue one in the tank right under the rim pointed down at 45deg angle towards the rockwork would hopefully act like supplemental actinic light.

I'll probably eventually do an ATS on this 10g, but I'd most likely keep the skimmer, mostly for ozone supplementation. In my case, the ozone will be used primarily to break down the allelopathic chemicals the coral produce.


One concern I do have is with the notorious yellowing of the water. Have you observed any of that in your system SantaMonica?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13063414#post13063414 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SantaMonica
I want people to try them because the more that do, the more we'll understand how we can all use these thing better and properly. As for an ATS, first I'd have to say that we might not want to use that word, since it is trademarked to mean the dumping device that Aday patented. So yes I'd agree that an ATS proper, is too overly complex and unnecessary. Which is why I came up with a bucket design. I did at first try to find a real "ATS" (with dumping mechanism) that I could buy, new or used, but they basically don't exist because Aday did not go the route of aquariums (he instead went industrial/commercial). You say you had one and it was not worth the hassle; I'd agree, because it looks like a huge and complex and noisy device with lots of salt spray. But my bucket version is not.


My ATS is anything but complex and noisy. Its larger but designed to be a nice fixture on a tank. The most noise is the cooling fan, which your running also. Large, allowed for the 240sq. in. of turf screen and a directional dump chute which added surge flow to an aquarium

As for "hardware" and "maintainence" and "work", I can't see how (for example) a 5 gal bucket with a pvc pipe and clip-on lights that only has to be "attended to" once a week is more work than: Buying a fuge; making space for a fuge; plumbing a fuge; cleaning a fuge; buying a skimmer; making space for a skimmer; adjusting and cleaning a skimmer; cleaning sponge filters; buying filtersocks; cleaning/replacing filtersocks; dealing with or worrying about macro getting into display; etc. All of this, and you still end up skimming food out that the corals wanted, and leaving in N and P that you now need to remove using other methods.

Filter socks remove detritus, nothing to do with an ATS. I always found a skimmer and carbon was needed to run my style of reef tank with my scrubber. If you have read any of the threads I participated in, one could see my several attemps at running my tanks on the scrubbers alone. I also asked to see some aquarists doing so and they long term success and pics of their aquariums.

Basically none without additional filtration but also close to nil running turf scrubbers. Many tried but always seemed to end up like mine, in the corner collecting dust.

Anyways as we are expressing our views on them and other filter methods, thats mine. I may add it saddens me how the scrubbers ended up, as I agree they could be a great filtration device, perhaps with some assistance for some types of reef tanks and perhaps alone for others.

If you could find my thread back when we were discussing it with Morgan, there was great interest, perhaps even in the long ATS thread with Eric and the many other participants.

Good luck with yours. I do follow your thread to see how its going and read many of the other posts.
 
3 week update:

Right (Originally Seeded), 3 weeks old, 1 week after scrape:
148489ScreenRight3weeks-1weekSmall.jpg

Hi-Res: www.radio-media.com/fish/ScreenRight3weeks-1week.jpg


Left (Originally Unseeded), 3 weeks old, never scraped:
148489ScreenLeft3weeksSmall.jpg

Hi-Res: www.radio-media.com/fish/ScreenLeft3weeks.jpg


Seems pretty clear that I'm growing a different type of algae than was seeded. The original turf felt stuf was stiff and a dark brown/red; the new stuff is green and slimey. Can't tell yet if it's green hair algae that's matted down, or a different type of slime algae. When I pick at it, I don't find hair strands laying down or anything. I did find a long hair algae strand about ten inches long that was growing on the bottom the screen (reached all the way into the drain tube).

I'm not going to scrape either side this week, since neither side is as thick as the seeded version that was mailed to me. But this new type of algae may never get that thick though, so I'll be guestimating when to scrape it. Will probably do the left (originally unseeded) side next week.

paulsilver: That is great that algae prefer ammonia. I was thinking that turf may not work for a FO tank with no rock and no sand (such as I want to build an all-eel tank with just pvc pipes). It would be a neat experiment to slowly add eels one-by-one and see if the turf can keep up with the ammonia. Good to hear algae takes up copper, too. Sounds like another advantage of turf over a skimmer. Now I do see how skimming can get the precursors of N and P, but I seem to understand that these precursors are the same thing as "food", i.e., if you left them in the water, something would eat it.

mekanic: Just remember that laying the screen down in the lid of the nano only gives you one side; putting the screen in a unit above the nano gives two sides. 2 to 4 square inches is all you need (!). As for yellowing, I did not notice anything the first two weeks of use, but at that point I needed to use blow some dust arount in the tank as I was cleaning, so I used a filtersock with carbon for a day. But I still did not notice any "clearing up" of the water color. Anyways, I figure that carbon has to be used once a month anyways to clean out the coral chemicals, so if there really is some yellowing, it will be cleared up then.

flatlander: I mention filter socks because, when using turf w/o skimmer, you now have a live planton/pod/food population floating around that you probably don't want to trap in a sock or foam filter, just like you would not want a filter sock between your fuge and your display. I did read some of your past turf discussions; matter of fact I thought I read them all, including the big one. But I never did find one with Morgan participating; maybe he will now since I told him about this thread. What indicator from your setups made you want to keep the skimmer going? Anyways I'm going to go search for "morgan and ats" in the archives now...
 
(By the way, I deleted a whole inbox full of pm's by accident about two weeks ago, so if you pm'd and did not get a reply, please retry.)

Wow it's great finding more old threads. Here's the most precise answer to the core question of how turf works, compared to skimmers; was from one of the original turf threads: "Algae can't use organic sources of nitrogen, and for the most part, can't use organic sources of phosphorus. They can only use inorganic nutrient sources." Taken from this long post from that long thread:
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=6006070#post6006070

This is why I wanted to get turf to work, because it only uses inorganics (NH4, NO3, NO2, PO4) which are the exact things we want out of our water. These inorganics are not "food" to anything else of interest (clams?). Also from that same post: "Algae can't use detritus as a nutrient source, at least not directly." Yes, another word for detritus is: FOOD. This point is exactly where I see the yes-skimmer crowd separate from the no-skimmer crowd. It's the thinking that detritus is BAD because is LOOKS bad, SMELLS bad, and much of it comes out of the rear of fishes. But look at manure for gardens: It LOOKS bad, SMELLS bad, and comes out of the rear of cows. But it's what makes gardens grow. Same could be said of compost, which is just rotting leftovers of dead things. If in a garden, you added manure or compost, and at the same time "skimmed" it out with some type of machine, it would seem counterproductive. That's what struck me as odd about skimming once I understood it. But at first, I too was telling onlookers "look out much crap my skimmer pulled out in one day!". This, at the same time that I could never grow any filter-feeders, and barely could grow non-filter-feeders. Grew lots of P and N however.

That post goes on to say: "Productivity is highest with turf algae, followed distantly (if I recall correctly) by seagrasses, followed very distantly by everything else (zooxanthellae, macroalgae, phytoplankton, etc.)" And he then shows this comparison from Perspectives On Coral Reefs (1983)...


Turf algae:
1.0 to 6.0 Productivity (g C/m2/day)
10.0 to 50.0 Area coverage (%)

Seagrasses:
1.0 to 7.0 Productivity
0.0 to 40.0 Area coverage

Zooxanthellae:
0.6 Productivity
10 to 50 Area coverage

Benthic algae:
0.1 to 4.0 Productivity
0.1 to 5.0 Area coverage

Sand algae:
0.1 to 0.5 Productivity
10 to 50 Area coverage

Phytoplankton:
0.1 to 0.5 Productivity
10 to 50 Area coverage


As for yellowing, someone in that thread said: "We added ETS skimmers to take care of some of the organics (generally added by the turf algae when the ATS pads were scrpaed of excessive algal growth)." So maybe yellowing is only during scraping, although as I said before I have not seen any yellowing yet.

Getting back to Morgan's input, I found this further down in another post: "Morgan was pretty adament that you need to use a specific type of turf algae for it to work." Well, I wonder if my new algae that is growing on my screen is going to be the right type, and how I might make sure to grow the right type. In another thread: "When scraping your screens, scrape off all other forms of algae growing on it but leave any turf algae until it out competes everything and is the dominant algae." Interesting. I did not do this my first scrape; I took off everything. I might try "selective scraping" when I do the other side, since it now has both turf and green slime. Another post/thread said: "It is very important that the screens are frequently exposed to air so that turf algaes are favored. There are poor examples of turf scrubbers at the Science Center. Their screens are constantly submerged under several inches of water, allowing valonia, aiptasia and macroalgae to grow and not effectively growing turf algae."

Well this got me concerned, so I took the screen out and "scrubbed" it in tapwater, using my fingernails, kinda like washing your hair. Tons of the green stuff came right off, and it seems to have left just the much-stiffer reddish brown turf:

Left side at 3 weeks, never scraped; first pic is before "scrubbing", second pic after:
148489ScreenLeft3weeksSmall.jpg

148489ScreenLeftAfterScrubSmall.jpg

Hi-Res: www.radio-media.com/fish/ScreenLeft3weeks.jpg
Hi-Res: www.radio-media.com/fish/ScreenLeftAfterScrub.jpg


Right side at 3 weeks, scraped 1 week ago; first pic is before "scrubbing", second pic after:
148489ScreenRight3weeks-1weekSmall.jpg

148489ScreenRightAfterScrubSmall.jpg

Hi-Res: www.radio-media.com/fish/ScreenRight3weeks-1week.jpg
Hi-Res: www.radio-media.com/fish/ScreenRightAfterScrub.jpg


Especially on the left (never scraped) side, you can see how the green slime was hiding the reddish-brown turf. So the question that remains is: Does non-turf algae help or hurt? As for "needing air", it makes sense for two reasons: (1) Real turf is found only where it is exposed to air; and (2) When you turn off your return pump and the water level in the display goes lower, the green algae that grows on the glass does not go past the water line, i.e., it is held back by the air. So I can see how more "air" over the turf can keep green slime out, and favor turf which is used to the air. Therefore I'm going to consider (as a future test) increasing the timer so the off-time is longer, allowing the turf to dry out more.
 
SantaMonica wrote: "Now I do see how skimming can get the precursors of N and P, but I seem to understand that these precursors are the same thing as "food", i.e., if you left them in the water, something would eat it."

Ah, but not all Food is Food... nitrogenous wastes come from all sorts of chemical processes... and certain of the components in the reactions, such as Nitrite, are reduced chemically... in this case to Nitrate... but many forms are just proteins or amino acids (all contain some amount of phosphorous, nitrogen, etc.) that are floating around, and others are the allelopathic compounds mentioned above... but certainly removing these BEFORE they convert to Nitrate and Phosphate is the goal of the skimmer... the turf scrubber works by removing them AFTER they have been reduced...

Not sure if this is a positive or a negative, for either skimming or ATS, but it seems to be the sequence that distinguishes the two...

Anyway... if it works, dont fix it...
 
truthfully I would still run a skimmer, if just for a backup.

It looks like a great idea... but I do think the volume needs to be very high for it to pull the amount of nutrients out that you want

F
 
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