Waterfall Turf Algea Filter: CHEAP and EASY to build

Well it sounds like having proteins and amino acids are a good thing to have floating around (I think I've seen an amino acid additive). So maybe the allelopathic compounds are the only organic that we really do want removed. I know carbon takes care of these, so a once-a-month carbon treatment should do the trick, as well as remove any (phantom or not) yellowing that's occuring.

Franky: Running the skimmer (even if just for backup) creates the very problem that turf is trying to solve: How to leave food in the water for the corals to eat. Matter of fact, if a skimmer is going to actually be used, then I'm not seeing any need at all for turf. A skimmer takes out food, and reduces N and P because there will be less food to decompose. Turf leaves the food in, but still reduces N and P. Both will reduce N and P, but the skimmer wipes out the food too.

By the way I'm having good results with the 5 gal nano test... will post shortly.
 
I've been running an eco-wheel on my 180 for about 2 years now. I never found nitrates or phosphates in my tank, but I have had troubles growing corals (both SPS and LPS). In addition, I had all sorts of troubles with various algae in my tank, first dinoflagellates, then green hair, then cyano. I ultimately was able to get rid of each type and maintain an algae free display for the last 4 months or so. I finally added a protein skimmer to my tank and I'm pleased with both filters operating. I have a combination of both red turf (similar to what came with the starter from IA) and a green stringlike type on the scrubber. The green algae grows very fast, I usually pull about 2 packed cups of algae every 2 weeks from my wheel.

I believe many of my coral growth issues had to do with algae in the display. I would use caution with the iron supplement. I added iron at one point with the thought of helping the turf. Within a couple weeks I started having hair algae grow in the tank. Coincidence or not, I do not plan to intentially add an iron supplement to my tank.

I will be interested to see your tank after 6-8 months and more equillibrium using the scrubber in a bucket.

Matt
 
I've been running skimmerless for a few weeks now and the corals are more brown. The sump has a bit of chaeto and LOTS of xenia. :)
 
matt/pam: You are one of the rare finds, with that Eco Wheel. There's a fellow also in Long Beach with one too. That design is what proved to me that turf does not have to be done with a dumping mechanism. Great to hear about your zero N and P... that's my primary interest in turf. As for you getting both red turf and green hair on your screen, maybe that has something to do with you still getting algae in your display. As I posted above (and am gathering more info on still), the green hair algae is not the preferred algae to have on the screens... it is not nearly as efficient in taking up N and P. It may indeed grow faster than (and on top of) the red turf, but some experimentation needs to be done on whether or not it should be allowed to do so. I myself just scrubbed the hair off the screen, leaving just red turf behind. And if you added iron and got more algae in the display instead of your screen, this is looking like growing conditions on your screen are not good enough. Maybe the lighting has dropped? The idea is for algae to grow on the screen first, before the display. Screens need very bright light.

bradr: From some of your other threads, I saw that you are not running any turf, and that you are trying a lot of sps. You might be a good candidate for trying a bucket! Afterall, if your xenia is growing, you have N and P. My xenia shrunk to stubs after my turf was installed; they originally were doubling in size every week. I'll be posting a build thread on a turf filter in-a-bucket, but it's so easy you should just throw one together this weekend and try it.
 
santamonica,
I have both red and green algae growth on the wheel. Unfortunately mother nature has more control than I do on where algae grows in my tank. The design of the eco-wheel uses about 200 watts PC, lighted 24/7.
 
I had the same problem for the first 2.5 years with my tank. At best, a green film algae covered the entire back wall. At worst, one-inch long hair algae grew from some rocks, and glass needed cleaning once a day (and this was while I was paying a fish guy to take care of the tank). After firing the fish guy, and then studying filters for a full year, if I used every technique simultaneously (skimmer mesh mod, multiple carbons, multiple polyfilters, multiple rowaphos ($$), vodka, siphoning, sump cleaning, RDSB, clams, xenia, chaeto, new live rock, and almost NO feeding) then the algae would start reducing. But I lost several corals and fish from lack of food. And I still had the algae.

That's why I wanted turf (and I'm sure you had a story too.) Keep the corals and fish fed, and pull out the N and P. But your Eco Wheel seems to not be competing enough with the tank for algae placement, and I have a few ideas why. A few posts back I mentioned that I left the pump off by accident, and the turf dried out for six hours. I thought it was fine, but a few days later I started seeing slight pink on the N test and slight blue on the P test (Salifert). So I reasoned that some of the turf did indeed die, and was sloughing off back into the tank and rotting. Then I read about certain types of algae (besides turf) that grow on the screen and smother the real turf. Well since I was getting green hair on top of the turf, and since I thought I had some dead turf anyway, I "scrubbed" the loose stuff off. Those were the pics from a few posts ago. Well that did it, N and P dropped to crystal clear by the next day. And turf is the only filter running of any type (sump looks kinda empty with just water in it.)

So Matt what might work for you is to get that green stuff off the turf before it covers it. Waiting 2 weeks might be too long. The real turf is supposed to be FAR more effective at pulling N and P, but it can't do its job if it's being shaded by the green. Also, maybe switch to halides. My reading showed that turf can take as much light as you can give it, and the more you give it the more it pulls.
 
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Hi all,

A lot has already been said in this thread, but SantaMonica asked me to comment and I do have a few things to add/clarify. BTW... while I personally don't mind, I can see where others may be irritated by a PM'ed request to comment on a thread.

My qualifications to comment: I have run turf scrubbers for quite a while. I have also used conventional refugia. While I haven't read the Addey book, I have observed dozens of turf scrubbers and discussed them ad nauseam with their owners. I have been giving a talk to local aquarium clubs about refugia and turf scrubbers. I will try to point out when my comments are based on my experience, are purely hunches or are what I consider to be fact.

First, to address the original point of this thread, which was the mechanical design of this particular scrubber... I like the idea of using both sides of the screen to get double the algae growth in the same or small footprint. however, lighting through the walls of the vessel will be a maintenance nightmare.

I would be concerned about the vertical arrangement of the screen. It has been well covered in this thread that the turf benefits from surge type water movement that allows the individual "fronds" to move to and fro, increasing light and water penetration. The vertical arrangement will inhibit this even with surge like water movement because gravity and the downward flow of water will mat the algae down. All that said, I did use a flat screen scrubber with trickle flow (no surge) that performed quite well.

IMO and IME, intermittent exposure to air is NOT necessary. The idea that air exposure delivers more CO2 to the turf doesn't Jive, especially if the scrubber is lit opposite of the lighting in the tank (a practice I strongly recommend). That way when the lights are off in the tank and the corals are respiring (producing CO2), the scrubber is scavenging it. The opposite is also true. IME, turfs grow slower with 24 hour illumination.

What I have found to be necessary is that the turf is always grown in a thin film of water and not submerged in more than a few millimeters. I have observed in my own DIY systems and in large commercial systems that when the screens are submerged, caulerpa, valonia, aiptaisia and other undesirable organisms quickly proliferate. I have also found that different systems favor different varieties of turfs. Morgan recommends seeding because he feels that his variety is more desirable, but I have found that even with seeding, a different variety may dominate. I don't think that's a bad thing, I just don't see a lot of benefit to seeding. My screens have always gone from sterile to their first harvest in about a month.

I have always run a skimmer with my turf scrubbers. It is a fact that turf remove few dissolved organics, and may in fact be contributing to the dissolved organics in a closed system (hence the often observed yellowing), so I still like to run a skimmer, even at the risk of skimming out some of the plankton from the scrubber. I also believe in regular partial water changes under all circumstances.

I have never had very good experiences with refugia and consider them to be maintenance headaches. I have always found turf scrubbers quite simple to maintain and quite bulletproof. That said, I know others who have had quite to opposite experience and hold the opposite opinion.

Last, but not least, I took exception to the same group of statements that others pointed out from the proposed beginner's post. In my refugium/scrubber talk, I point out that inflated expectations are one of the biggest problems with scrubbers and several of your statements were perfect set-ups for disappointment. Your pitch for scrubbers sounded more like Jim Jones passing out kool-aid than the nice lady at Costco offering someone a cheddar-wurst sample. ;)

Hope this all helps.

Adam
 
I don't think harvesting every week versus every 2 weeks will change much in my system. When I harvest every other week, my harvest is much greater than from weekly harvests, i.e., I feel like there I'm harvesting comparable amounts on a per week basis.

I think one concept that needs to clear up is whether you have green turf algae or not. I've received feedback from others much smarter than I that green turf is a more effective consumer of nitrogen than the red turf. I don't know why the green grows or the red grows, but needless to say I'm just happy I'm able to harvest something.
 
matt: I'll posting soon what I dug up, but it seems to be opposite of what you were being told. I read that you want to have red turf, not green hair, because the green is "mostly water" and does not absorb nearly as much N and P. However the green DOES grow much faster in size than the red (because it's mostly water) and therefore grows over and shades the red. So what might be happening with you is that you seem to be harvesting a lot, but it's mostly green water-filled no-nutrient algae that was covering and shading the stiff high-nutrient red turf. I'll post the info soon, but it makes sense. I just went through this myself on my first scraping: I confused a lot of "green" with a lot of "nutrients". Anyways it's easy enough for you to remove just the green, just massage it (don't scrape it) like you were washing your hair. The green washes away, and the red stays. I did mine in a sink of course; not sure if you can easily do that with the Eco.

adam: Thanks for replying. The original acrylic box was indeed the first version (and is currently being constructed by a LFS for a 200g retail display), but has since been replaced with the ease-of-everything of the bucket design. The big advantage of the acrylic, of course, is the very close proximity of the lights to the screen. Nobody has completed an acrylic one yet, but as for salt spray collecting on the insides of the walls: I just reached into the bucket that I'm using now, and there is almost no spray at all on the sides of the bucket (been 3 days since cleaning). If an acrylic box had the closed-bottom design, it could just be filled with water and swished around to clean any spray off, and if the open-bottom design, you could just reach up from underneath with a wet towel. The trick is to set the flow through the spraybar to be enough to cover the screen, but not enough to actually spray sideways.

I agree about surge being an improvement; the on-off-on of the pump was designed to be the poor-man's solution to this. One of the big questions that remains, is how much improvement is surging anyways? Aday said 50%, but someone will have to test to know for sure. A side benefit(?) of the on-off-on pump, is indeed the exposure to air. I'm getting split feedback on this one; folks experiencing what you did (all the CO2 is "delivered" by water), and folks saying the opposite, saying that breaking the boundary layer is critical. Since putting a timer on was so easy, I thought to just mimic both Aday's dumping, and natural waves, by including it. I'll test it without the timer one day, and I'm sure many folks trying this out will too. Maybe your thin-film-of-water recommendation causes a similar effect as my on-off-on. I know I have no caulerpa, valonia or aiptaisia. Just turf and green hair.

As for seeding, I guess it's a time-saving option; many folks want instant results, and with a seeded screen you can pretty much have it. Now, I thought that my screen too was converting from red turf to green hair, but after giving the screen a little scrub (not scrape), low and behold there was new red turf underneath that was not there before.

Skimmer/yellowing: I'll have to diverge on this one, since this is what got me wanting turf in the first place. Job number one was keeping plankton/pods/food in the water. I really want to keep gorgs, dendro's, sponges, etc., and also be able to feed my other corals sufficiently. Everything else is a side benefit. And the yellowing seems to follow a pattern... folks who saw scrubbers several years ago says "yes" there is yellowing, but folks who are seeing them in the last few years are saying "no" there is not. With mine there is not, but nevertheless I believe we all have to run carbon once a month to remove allolepathics, and this will remove any yellowing too, and so hopefully the concern of yellowing, in general, becomes a moot point.

I agree about refugiums. They are huge, and they trap waste (even mine now, with nothing in it; it's still a settling chamber), two things that I really favor turf for.

Lastly, the intro for beginners... I went and reworded a few of the statements from "it will do it" to "it will help". But overall, it's kinda like buying a vacuum cleaner; One model says "cleans carpet AND tile", while another model says "clean 97% of carpets and 62% of tiles, when square footage does not exceed double the motor horsepower minus 10% for each degree operating temperature over 90 degrees, and successful cleaning should be also be downgraded based on heavy foot traffic, and age". They really both say the same thing: Cleans carpet AND tile. But nobody would buy the second one. Thus my reasoning for simply saying, "reduces N and P."
 
breaking the boundary layer is to prevent the algae from matting, and from somewhat stagnant water being in proximity to the algae, thus inhibiting the scrubbing action... no? I dont think it has to do with the CO2 levels...
 
The green is slime, definitely not turf; it does cover up the turf, however (see the pics from several posts ago.)

I thought the boundary layer was just that, an inhibition of gas exchange (nothing to do with matting.) I'll post the things I found about it in a bit.
 
Ok, my search in the archives found many useful things:


Power of Turf:

User "galilean" said in 2006: "Slime algae will grow everywhere [in the display tank] very quickly unless large numbers of tiny crustaceans are present to eat it, or the nutrient levels are extremely low (parts per billion). This extremely low level is only achievable with an ATS [turf algae scrubber] in my experience.

User mark said in 2005: "The thing that makes the turf communities so unique is that they are the turbocharged algae. [...] Understand this: A properly sized turf community will outcompete Caulerpa, other macros, and also seagrass. Think of the way Beckett skimmers are to protein skimmers, the ATS is the supercharged motherload of algal export. But the neat thing about ATS is that they require less space. You would need a very large sump full of Caulerpa to get the same level of productivity that you get from a small turf screen.

putawaywet 2003: "This is taken directly from The Environmental Gradient by Steve Tyree but credit is given to Adey & Loveland 1991 for the research... 'The turf algae is a group of fast growing short and moss-like mats of algal filaments. They grow incredibly fast and are constantly grazed upon by herbivore animals. These algae turf's are not very visible but do occur on surfaces that do not contain living anaimals. Turf algae can produce 5 to 20 grams of dry weight plant tissue per square meter per day. A square meter of algal turf growing on a screen can absorb 0.3 to 1.2g Nitrogen a day. A typical square meter of algal turf will contain 30 to 40 species of plants.' "

mark 2001: "From what I've learned by discussing ATS systems with Adey's proponents, it seems the ATS has a lot less of a lag time to catch up to nutrient increases. Accounts of accidentally dumping a whole can of food into an ATS system without ill effects are pretty interesting."

dendroneptha 2000: "Turf algae which grows quickly on a surge screen supposedly is thousands of times more efficient than caulerpa at removing excess nutrients and heavy metals from the tank. I am not sure you can get the same results by having a sump filled with macro algae."


Types of Turf Growth:

borneman 2005: "The algae go through a succession, and without the nice started seeding Morgan had, my succession is still based largely on the rapid growing Derbesia-type greens, and I want the red astro-turf stuff that is so efficient and rarely needs scraping, but haven't gotten there yet. I found a good patch of it on some frag bases in one tank, but have not yet scraped it off and stuck it on the screen."

mark 2005: "At first, long string algae will grow which is very water-logged. [...] So scrapings may be weekly or biweekly. As the tougher turf communities develop, scrapings can typically be reduced to every other week or so. I think it also depends on the nutrient load. ATS units have the ability to reduce nutrient levels to insanely low levels. I suspect when this occurs growth may slow. If growth slows, then it's time to increase food input into the system! Get that algae to grow, so that scrapings occur more frequently again. I think E. Borneman was feeding his 40 gallon ATS system 5 times a day at one point, and the turf communities took care of it. Not scraping the screen is bad for the colony; Smaller turfs may become choked out by longer/stringier species.

borneman 2004: "the labor [required to scrape the screen] goes down the longer and more mature is the turf screen is, as it is successional. the long filamentous hair algae prone to amphipod infestation and frequent scraping eventually gives way to short tufty stiff species that rarely require scraping and are much more resitant to amphipod damage. Furthermore, the nutrients eventually become so low that the turfs are even N limited. the turfs don't spread to the tank because they are eaten unless there is a total lack of herbviory and no amphipods in the tank at all....unlikely."

joe kelley 2004: "IA says that by the fifth or sixth day, you should notice new growth on your screen. Entermorpha flexuosa, a long, stringy macroalgae, resembling strips of green celophane,is almost always the first alga to grow on a bare screen. It takes 4-6 weeks for healthy turf algae to begin to takeover; closer to 4 if a seed screen is used. Because Entermorpha grows very long and retains a lot of water, the screen will have to be scraped much more often during this period."

staceon 2000: "IA told me to shoot for the purple color on the screen (or that type of algae). Anyway, I too had pods in mine when I scrape."


Basics:

piercho 2005: "The basic parameters of the Adey scrubber system are (1) Intense light. The desired algae community needs and uses high energy levels of light. (2) A screen that is easily removable to frequently scrape (harvest), and immersed in FW to control micrograzers. The desired community of algae is not resistant to grazing. (3) A screen that can be alternately immersed and exposed to air. Adey's screens were surged with dump cycles that broke up water boundary layer at the turf and allowed a period of air exposure. Achieving high rates of gas exchange at the scrubber were a primary design parameter."

scot 2005: "I remember reading on [the former site] AlgaeScrubber.com to run the lights 24/7 for a length of time to get things going."

endymion 2001: "I read that to be effective the screen needs to be exposed to air every 15-45 secs."

Dendronepthya 2000: "I have noticed that I have to take the screens out and de-amphipod them more than anything else. If amphipods get onto your screens, they will drastically reduce the effectiveness of your ATS. Maks sure you don't have any obvious bald spots on your screens. I too notice amphipods all over the main tank. I have a mandarin and a sixline, and neither have made a dent in the [pod] populations over the last four months."

mark 2005: "[Turf] have evolved to endure constant grazing by tangs, snails, and other herbivorous creatures. To adapt to this, they have evolved enormous rates of growth and photosynthesis. If the grazing discontinues and the algae grows to longer lengths, the productivity slows down. This is why it is important to scrape the ATS screen frequently. The reefkeeper is simulating this high rate of grazing to stimulate fast growth, and the stuff that gets scraped is the nutrient export."


Yellowing:

mark 2001: "What about algae yellowing water and releasing compounds that inhibit the growth of corals like SPS? That's a bit of a myth. It does happen in poorly maintained ATS systems. The ATS systems with yellow water that Julian referred to in his early 90's article were examples of what happens when you don't scrape the screen. I think at one point, the caretakers of the smithsonian did not scrape the screen for over a year. The algae will leach in those cases. I think Morgan's response to that was along the lines of, "How would a berlin tank look if it was neglected for over a year." By scraping the turfs regularly, you avoid this yellowing of the water. ATS systems do have more particles in the water, which makes them a little less clear than a berlin system, but that's a good thing. It's essentially these particles that help feed the various filter feeding organisms."


Previous Nano Idea:

liquidshaneo 2001: "how feasible is an ATS for a 5 or 10 gal nanoreef for the only filtration? I've wanted to setup a small nanoreef in my cube for a year now and the only thing was that I didn't want to get a skimmer for the setup. I've got a prop tank full of soft corals that would work great in a 5 or 10 gal tank. I'm thinking of putting the ATS in the hood above the lights or maybe off to the side and use that as the sole circulation for the tank."


Previous Non-Dumping Idea:

horge 2000: "Try the concept out with a non-mechanical model. A small tray with a standpipe drain to allow (say) 1.5" of water; a clear cover; a lightsource over it (.5 to 2w per sq.in.); and rigid plastic screening cut to fit the tray (w/ a hole to allow for the standpipe); a means to get water to it and from the standpipe back to the main tank (tray vol/minute up to 4 vols/minute). No wave action. Bare bones."


Even a Previous Bucket Idea:

eddie 2002: "see how cheap and easy it can be done with only 2x4s, 5 gallon buckets, and a tarp from walmart lined with window screen"
 
For those concerned about yellowing, here is a pic looking lengthwise through the tank with a window in the background, which can be compared to the other window:

148489YellowCheckSmall.jpg

Hi-Res: www.radio-media.com/fish/YellowCheck.jpg
 
I believe that generally there is some yellowing, not only when the scrubber is not scraped for long periods... but as is said above, that is not necessarily a bad thing... it is not related to the yellowing that constitutes old tank syndrome... I think...
 
Been busy working on the build-thread. Built a second bucket as part of the thread, and have it running now next to the original bucket. Is anyone else building / designing / wanting one?
 
I am working on mine now.

I am working on mine now.

I am re-starting my old dump bucket in a new configuration. Unfortunately, I have a lot on my plate so I am going very very slowly. Since it is a standard dump bucket design, I think that I will start a new thread for it. If so, I will post a link to it. I also believe that I will add a set of plans so that others can build it if they want to.

The down side of this true Algae Turf Scrubber/dump bucket is that you would need to get the Plexiglas and the correct glue from a plastics company. Then you would probably need to go to some place like Ace Hardware to get it cut up.

For this particular AST design, you would need to go to a steel supplier to get the counter weight. The last time I went, they cut it to size for me for very little money. I believe that it was only a few dollars total.

It’s all a bit of a pain in the neck to get the stuff to build it but it’s cheaper than a skimmer.
 
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That's a lot of work. Why not just throw together a bucket for now and get it going, and work on your large one long term? Then when the large one is done, if it ever breaks you'll have your bucket for a backup.
 
Soon

Soon

I am going to use the old dump bucket. It worked great for year so why not? I need to get a new counter weight again and an enclosure to catch the water spills. I will design that on CAD first so I know that it works for my setup and fits in the cabinet.

Right now, I am dosing my tank with sodium silicate to get a diatom bloom per Charles Matthews which is supposed to suppress feature hair algae. I accidentally did something like that in my oldest tank and it work great. Next, I will cut back on the silicate and seed my (mined) dead reef rock from Carib Sea with reef Grung from GARF. I will use the additives that they recommend to hopefully get the calcareous algae to turn the rock purple and to bring the rock to life.

At the same time, I am setting up the lighting, shopping for a Red Bull Mini Refrigerator to keep my dendro food fresh in and working on the tank cabinet. I was promised a rebuild four station peristaltic dosing pump from a distributor but that has not come yet but that has to be incorporated as well.

I put the old ATS outside in the sun filled with water and some Metrical Grow in it but that did not work. I just build my light fixture with 4 T5 4100K Compact fluorescents and am about to set it up right on top of the ATS with a small pump to add circulation and aeration. I will use the MGrow again but I will not have it hooked up to the tank. I don’t want the two chemical soaps to get mixed up before they both come to fruition. Hopefully, I will get algae to grow right on the plastic like it used to do.

In the past, after messing with the screen for quite a while, I noticed that the algae had taken hold right on the plastic so I threw the screen way and never looked back. About every one or two a week the bucket would stop in the down position, letting me know that it was time to harvest. I simply grabbed a hand full of the Easter basket grass algae and through it away with no scrapping. Then the bucket went right back to dumping regularly.

I have a lot of stuff to package in my unfinished cabinet. I also have a lot of other projects that demand my attention. It’s very slow but I hope to get there.
 
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