Wavebox 6212

percula99

New member
I have a Tunze Wavebox 6212 on my 180 reef which had been working well. I tweaked the pulse wheel on the controller just a notch and my wave disappeared. I have tried everything and cannot get it back to be more than a half inch wave. It used to be over an inch. I have taken the wavebox apart and cleaned all the components and pump. I have tried turning the power adjustment screw on the driver from 30% up to 100% and there is no increase in wave size. I have tried turning the pulse wheel from low to high and I can never get a wave over a half inch. Can you tell me what the problem is and how to fix it?
 
Possibilities that come to mind include:

1) You switched the power supply from another pump so the wavebox is getting less than 24V for 6261 pump or 19V for 6260 pump.

2) The foam sponge is over the intake, it should be only at the back of the pump.

3) The rock work was changed and this affected the frequency which will produce a wave.

4) The propeller is worn or damaged.
 
Possibilities that come to mind include:

1) You switched the power supply from another pump so the wavebox is getting less than 24V for 6261 pump or 19V for 6260 pump.

2) The foam sponge is over the intake, it should be only at the back of the pump.

3) The rock work was changed and this affected the frequency which will produce a wave.

4) The propeller is worn or damaged.

Hi Roger

I would have to say none of the above. Everything was working fine until I tweaked the pulse wheel on the controller. 1) I did not switch the power supply. 2) The foam is over the intake. I took out the instruction manual and followed the procedure. 3) I have not changed the rock work. 4) Would tweaking the pulse wheel suddenly cause the propeller to show that it is worn out? As I mentioned the wavebox was working perfectly and tweaking the pulse wheel caused the wave to just vanish and now I can't get it back. I didn't do anything else.
 
This would definitely do it, keep in mind their is only one frequency that will produce a single wave in a given tank layout/dimensions. When you hit this frequency, you will get a constant see/saw wave crest on one side, trough on the other and the slightest change will make the wave more chaotic or non existant, you can also get a double wave on a longer tank which is half the height but crests in the middle.
 
This would definitely do it, keep in mind their is only one frequency that will produce a single wave in a given tank layout/dimensions.

So, if tweaking it just a little made the wave disappear, why is it that when I tweaked it back to the original position the wave didn't come back?
 
Are you sure you got it exactly reset? The entire range of that knob is .30- 1.50 seconds and .01 seconds is the difference between a small wave and a much bigger wave, the frequency has to be exact to get the maximum wave. If that is not the issue than something else had to have changed, the pump may be getting weaker or failing or perhaps something was inadvertently changed with regard to the wavebox assembly or installation.
 
One thing I will add in that someone told me a long time ago the first time I tried setting one up was if you can see the dial move when you turn it to adjust it is almost too much at once. Tiny tiny moves of the dial are necessary often times to find that perfect wave.
 
Are you sure you got it exactly reset? The entire range of that knob is .30- 1.50 seconds and .01 seconds is the difference between a small wave and a much bigger wave, the frequency has to be exact to get the maximum wave.


One thing I will add in that someone told me a long time ago the first time I tried setting one up was if you can see the dial move when you turn it to adjust it is almost too much at once. Tiny tiny moves of the dial are necessary often times to find that perfect wave.

Both these comments are saying the same thing in a different way. Very small moves are required to set the proper frequency. I will start over. Should the eventual setting that works not be in the same position as when the wave was actually working? Should I start at the lowest end and work my way up, or can I start close to where I was when the wave performed properly?
 
From my experience it should be close to where it was but may not be exact or at least where I thought it was prior. I personally would start maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn away from where it was in either direction then move towards the original point. Give it 15-30 seconds between each move too so you can see if the wave is building each time. At some point you should see it build then lessen as you pass the correct timing
 
After tweaking the pulse wheel on the controller in tiny increments I have managed to get the wave to about an inch. That is twice the wave I had before. I can't help but think it should be a larger wave than that, but it may be all I can get. Thanks Roger and Shawn for the input. Roger, do you think that is the best I can get? Could the rock work in my tank be interfering with generating a larger wave?
 
1" on a 180 is about the norm for a 6212. End overflows shorten it and rocks on the side walls shorten it. It may be possible to tweak 1/4" or so more but you really are near what I would expect to be the maximum and 3/4" is the limit of what I find to be effective, the wave you have is effective and sufficient.
 
When you say a 1" wave, is that from trough to crest? So the water level would raise .5" from a resting water level, or the full 1" of a 1" wave?

With a center overflow what would be the expected height on a standard 180 size tank? Where would I want to set the resting water level from top of glass?

I'm trying to figure out the correct water level clearance required for a new tank...
 
1" from static level to crest, this is with a center overflow, I have seen people with certain layouts (rock layout also has an impact) and perfect tuning achieve 1.5". End overflows will usually limit you to 3/4".
 
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