What am I doing wrong besides spending TON O MONEY

[Windyman55]

Hello all.
This is my first post although I've been scanning your site since March of this year. Lots of good information here. Although the wife and I found there is NO ONE single solution, or formula for any situation. I've never had a saltwater tank. But I sell military Surplus on line(ArmySuplusNow.com) and scan a lot of Government auction sites.

I ran across this tank In November of last year being auctioned off at a water treatment plant in Springfield Illinois. Tank, stand, 3 over the edge 400 filters, heaters the whole shooting match for FRESH water. That should have been a dead giveaway. If a water treatment plant couldn't handle a tank what made me think I could. LOL

But, when the wife saw it she said "œI would love to have another saltwater tank "and "œI had a 75 gallon tank when I lived I the Florida Keys and they are NO TROUBLE AT ALL". LMAO"¦. To shut her up I went and placed a $300 bid just absolutely sure someone would out bid me. Yea"¦..Right.

She did water changes by just going down to the shore with a 5 gallon bucket and getting natural sea water. And this was when car tires were made of stone. I think her neighbors names were Fred and Wilma.

So the hemorrhaging of money (and more importantly to me...TIME) started in March. So far, between the aquarium costs and the remodeling that "œjust has to be done before we place and set up the tank". I'm guessing this $300 deal has set me back about 10K so far. If I ever did a serious cost analysis I'd probably go bat crap crazy.

Anyway, Things had been going pretty good. But about 2 months ago I purchased another 125 Gallon set up (reef and marine tank) complete with stock and TONS of soft corals and polyps and other good stuff from a company in South Carolina for $800. The owner passed away and the wife just couldn't handle the tank. I cannibalized the tank for the stock and all the live rock for my tank. All has been looking good until about 3 weeks ago and Lost the soft corals 1st. then the two small anemones died. Now the frog spawn is gone and the Reindeer antlers are drooping.

So I know you need all the information you can get so here's what I have and the latest chemical tests. I've had a problem with Nitrate problems from DAY ONE. This last reading with two differant test kits (Read Sea and API) is the lowest it's ever been. Usually always runs around 40.

EQUIPMENT
150 Gallon Bow front tank (6 feet wide) Started in March of 2014

130-150lb Live rock (about half covered with assorted polyps, grasses)
175lb Live sand (ACCORDING TO CALCULATIONS I'M USING 160 GALLONS OF WATER.)

7 Stage R/O system for fresh water with a .002 contaminant reading.

30 Gallon Sump installed in adjacent room (No filter media at all. Just water and pumps) I had some filter media in one of the chambers but removed it when I read that it could be a source of my Nitrate problems.

Red Octopus External DDNW-250 Dual pump (rated for 300 gallon) ADDED TWO WEEKS AGO

Currently running Six 36" T-5 White HO tubes. Three 24" T-5 White HO tubes and Three 24" T-5 Blue HO tubes. Set up on 7 timers to turn On /Off in graduated increments.

BUT"¦ I have ordered 3 Ecotech Marine Radion RX30w LED Gen 3 Pros and Reef Link router that should be here in a week.

1 Big Kahuna Aquarapure (rated for 400 gallons I believe) ADDED 3 MONTHS AGO

2 Koralia Power heads Rated at 1050 GPH

Stock (Fish)
6" Hippo
4" Yellow Tang
4" Blue/Brown Wrassie
4" and 2" Yellow Head Jawfish
4" , 3" and 2" Black & White Ocellaris Clownfish (hosting a 5" LTA)
2" Domino Damsel
2" Brown Puffer
Two 1.5" Yellow Tail Damsels
Two 2" Blue Damsels
Two 1.5" Green Damsels

STOCK (Clean up)
5" Red Crown Algae Blenny
Two 5" Serpentine starfish
5" Peppermint Shrimp
2" Spinney Urchin
6 -10 Large Hermits
12 Assorted Med. Snails (I hadn't realized my snail population had dwindled this low until I started comprising this list) I have 400 snails ordered (200 NASSARIUS and 200 CERITH) About ½".

On the Shelf
I use instant Ocean REEF crystal salt for water changes. I do a 30% water change at least every two weeks. Vacuuming sand as I drain.

I use coral Coral Vital "œThe Reef Life Energizer" by Marc Weiss Co. 1 ½ tsp Daily for another two weeks and then 2 to 3 times per week after that. This product seemed to be working until we ran out. I have since reordered since the polyps and soft corals started dying.

And Instant Ocean Marine Stabilizer.

I dose the Aquarapure with 20Ml of Vodka twice a week.

Salinity 1.025 Temp 78.9 PH 8.2 Ammon 0.5 Nitrite 0
Nitrate 10 on the Red Sea test kit and 20 on the API

Mag 1400 Alka 5.7 (I'm adding baking soda now) Cal 400 Phos 0.7
So what am I doing wrong?????

Thanks
Greg

 

[Mark9]

kh at 5.7 is way low, you need to bring that up to at least 8.
Your phosphates at .7 are sky high, you need to bring that down.
I'm guessing you're feeding your corals way too much with that reef life energizer.
Ammonia at .5 signals a big problem it should be 0.
If it was me, i'd simplify.
Stop all the stuff you're putting in the tank, do regular water changes, start dosing.
BRS sells a great kit, very easy to setup.
Not sure what a Big Kahuna Aquarapure is, but i'd get rid of it.
And just what are those T5 bulbs you have? Are they old?
I'd switch to ATI's.
If you're using a hydrometer, it may be off, way off.
Do you have a refractometer? If not, get one.
If there is nothing in your sump, why have it?
Put the skimmer in there.
Get a reactor, run some carbon and GFO to get the phosphates down.

After re-reading, you are getting radions, that will help.

 

[coralsnaked]

Ammonia and Nitrites do indicate a big problem. Get a second set of independent test from LFS or another Reefer to verify results and then if needed I'd definitely run some poly pads in sump as well as introduce some Amquel or Prime to lock up that ammonia. If you have used Amqual or other like product you may be getting a false readings, but the Nitrite readings indicate your Nitrogen Cycle is not keeping up with that large bio load you have in the tank. Skim hard and wet. Run GFO and GAC in a dual reactor. Stop feeding coral, and only feed fish the minimum. Also be careful with those Radions and run at 40% and work your way up.

 

[thegrun]

The ammonia at 0.5 if the test is correct is a huge problem, something very bad is going on. I would ask your local fish store to test the ammonia for you to confirm the ammonia. If your alkalinity (if measured in dKh) is low. You are very low on water flow. For a soft coral system you should have at least 4000 gph of flow.

 

[Al]

But, when the wife saw it she said “I would love to have another saltwater tank ”and “I had a 75 gallon tank when I lived I the Florida Keys and they are NO TROUBLE AT ALL”. LMAO…. To shut her up I went and placed a $300 bid just absolutely sure someone would out bid me. Yea…..Right.

She did water changes by just going down to the shore with a 5 gallon bucket and getting natural sea water. And this was when car tires were made of stone. I think her neighbors names were Fred and Wilma.

So the hemorrhaging of money (and more importantly to me...TIME) started in March. So far, between the aquarium costs and the remodeling that “just has to be done before we place and set up the tank”. I’m guessing this $300 deal has set me back about 10K so far. If I ever did a serious cost analysis I’d probably go bat crap crazy.

Windyman, that there is some of the funniest stuff I have read all week. Just to make it clear, I'm not laughing at your problems, just the way you got involved in the hobby.

Your wife was right as far as they way she used to do it. What could be easier than running a seawater tank when you have easy access to clean seawater. No buying salt, mixing with filtered water, dedicated saltwater holding tanks, elevated levels of trace elements in ASW - just buckets, siphons, and salinity checks. Just fresh seawater complete with coral food (plankton) and the slight risk of introducing a pest into your tank.

As for the cost, yeah, that's a problem. It's just as true for a 50 gallon tank.

As to your problems. I think it's best to slow down and let things stabilize, stop throwing equipment at your issues. I see a thick layer of sand in your tank. That can develop issues by itself, but they are good at removing Nitrate, you should not need an additional nitrate filter. 400 snails? Remember that Nassarius can only eat meaty foods. Unless you are really shoveling so much food in there that you need more than a few (Which will cause Nitrate problems by itself) they will starve to death which will cause further Nitrate problems when they start to decay. Ceriths are good to have, but do you really have an algae problem? Snails can only eat thin films of green and brown algae, no other kind. The fact that your previous snails died out should tell you something is wrong. You're pretty heavily stocked, and your rockwork looks well packed, so make sure your skimmer is working well, increase the current (especially through the rock), and stop the livestock addition - you don't need the additional snails. Nitrate will come down when your tanks ability to process waste matches what's going on in there.

Edit: Thegrun is right about the current, you have to increase it.

 

[Pigpen17]

Stock (Fish)
6" Hippo
4" Yellow Tang
4" Blue/Brown Wrassie
4" and 2" Yellow Head Jawfish
4" , 3" and 2" Black & White Ocellaris Clownfish (hosting a 5" LTA)
2" Domino Damsel
2" Brown Puffer <-------------------------?
Two 1.5" Yellow Tail Damsels
Two 2" Blue Damsels
Two 1.5" Green Damsels

STOCK (Clean up)
5" Red Crown Algae Blenny
Two 5" Serpentine starfish
5" Peppermint Shrimp
2" Spinney Urchin
6 -10 Large Hermits
12 Assorted Med. Snails (I hadn't realized my snail population had dwindled this low until I started comprising this list) I have 400 snails ordered (200 NASSARIUS and 200 CERITH) About ½".

Coral nipper?

 

[Nina51]

And this was when car tires were made of stone. I think her neighbors names were Fred and Wilma.

sorry i can't help out with the tank stuff but i'm pretty sure i remember your wife. i was wilma. tell her hi for me!

 

[Sk8r]

Here is what I do for a successful stony reef:
100 gallon tank...equipment list in my sig line.
Stocking list in my sig line.
Water parameters in my sig line.
To maintain that: I have a 32 gallon Rubbermaid Brute trashcan with lid, full of fresh ro/di laced with 3 lbs of Mrs. Wages' pickling lime. I have an ATO (autotopoff) from Avast.
I have 3 tests besides my refractometer: Salifert alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium.
I have 3 supplements: Kent Turbo Calcium, Kent DKH Alkalinity Buffer, and Kent Tech-M.
I bring my water parameters to the level in my sig line using the supplements before I put the lime in the ATO water. Once the limewater is running in the ATO, I simply test magnesium and alk weekly, write down the result, and let it go another week, watching my water level in the ATO. I top the ATO off whenever half full, and this keeps everything going on even keel. Kalk (the lime) won't overdose, so as I add water, the extra from that 3 lbs just dissolves and keeps the proper level up, and this can go one for 3-4 months without any further supplement or adjustment. I do not add other supplements except when the magnesium level falls, which will cause the other two to fall. And this usually takes several months.
I maintain 80 degrees temperature, 1.025 salinity.

My assessment is that you are doing far more work than you need to do, but that your water is out of balance. Set up to run kalk, stop feeding the corals (the fish do that) and maybe add a couple of clams or a bubble coral to sop up extra calcium.

 

[Windyman55]

kh at 5.7 is way low, you need to bring that up to at least 8.
Your phosphates at .7 are sky high, you need to bring that down.
I'm guessing you're feeding your corals way too much with that reef life energizer.
Ammonia at .5 signals a big problem it should be 0.
If it was me, i'd simplify.
Stop all the stuff you're putting in the tank, do regular water changes, start dosing.
BRS sells a great kit, very easy to setup.
Not sure what a Big Kahuna Aquarapure is, but i'd get rid of it.
And just what are those T5 bulbs you have? Are they old?
I'd switch to ATI's.
If you're using a hydrometer, it may be off, way off.
Do you have a refractometer? If not, get one.
If there is nothing in your sump, why have it?
Put the skimmer in there.
Get a reactor, run some carbon and GFO to get the phosphates down.

After re-reading, you are getting radions, that will help.

Thanks for the reply. I created my own Excel spread sheet to monitor the readings and do have a "0" listed as ideal for Phosphates. How exactly would I bring that down?

As for the Reef life energizer. And the Stabilizer. I had received these items with the tank I purchased up In South Carolina I cannibalized for my tank. The tank was in beautiful shape when I went up there to tear it down so I continued to use it when I got home. I ran out of both about a month ago and decided to do what you suggested and not replace the additives and let the tank try and maintain it's self. That's when things started deteriorating. I repurchased those two item and started dosing and things are starting to look better. I'm coupling that with increased 30% water changes every two weeks.

The "Big Kahuna" is just the model name of the Aquarapure. It's the 4" canister/tank I dose with Vodka twice a week to bring down Nitrates. There's plenty of info on it here with mixed reviews.

As for the sump being empty. I did have the small protein skimmer that came with the second tank I purchased for the stock and rick. But even though it was working properly it was WAY underrated and replaced it with the oversized Red Octopus 2 weeks ago. Since then the nitrates are as low as they ever have been.....YES, I know. Still too high. LOL But I paid extra for the external model of the skimmer. I did have filter media in there that was catching a lot of junk. But read here that that media could be a contributor to the Nitrates problem so I removed it as well as the Magnum canister filter I was running.
And let me correct one item about the sump. I do have two 8 once net bags of carbon pellets in one of the compartments.

I thought about a reactor. But one expense at a time. LOL Unless I can stick up that brinks truck I see stop at the bank every now and then. Any other advice?

Oh. And about the Ammonia. That is a Brand new issue. It's been 0 since I started the tank. I'll check parameters again this weekend to see if it was just a fluke.
Thanks
Greg

 

[Windyman55]

You make it sound so easy..LOL

You make it sound so easy..LOL

Here is what I do for a successful stony reef:
100 gallon tank...equipment list in my sig line.
Stocking list in my sig line.
Water parameters in my sig line.
To maintain that: I have a 32 gallon Rubbermaid Brute trashcan with lid, full of fresh ro/di laced with 3 lbs of Mrs. Wages' pickling lime. I have an ATO (autotopoff) from Avast.
I have 3 tests besides my refractometer: Salifert alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium.
I have 3 supplements: Kent Turbo Calcium, Kent DKH Alkalinity Buffer, and Kent Tech-M.
I bring my water parameters to the level in my sig line using the supplements before I put the lime in the ATO water. Once the limewater is running in the ATO, I simply test magnesium and alk weekly, write down the result, and let it go another week, watching my water level in the ATO. I top the ATO off whenever half full, and this keeps everything going on even keel. Kalk (the lime) won't overdose, so as I add water, the extra from that 3 lbs just dissolves and keeps the proper level up, and this can go one for 3-4 months without any further supplement or adjustment. I do not add other supplements except when the magnesium level falls, which will cause the other two to fall. And this usually takes several months.
I maintain 80 degrees temperature, 1.025 salinity.

My assessment is that you are doing far more work than you need to do, but that your water is out of balance. Set up to run kalk, stop feeding the corals (the fish do that) and maybe add a couple of clams or a bubble coral to sop up extra calcium.

Sounds simple enough... And the one thing I told EVERYONE as I was spending more than the national debt was "I WANT TO MAKE THIS AS MAINTENANCE FREE AS POSSIBLE". The free time is virtually non existant with the surplus business going full tilit. Yea, right.:lol:
Anyway, I have two of the very same trash bins on wheels you mention. The pickling lime... That does what? And this is just make up water right? No reef crystals.
Thanks for the reply
Greg

 

[Windyman55]

Wilma Who?

Wilma Who?

sorry i can't help out with the tank stuff but i'm pretty sure i remember your wife. i was wilma. tell her hi for me!

Took me a while to figure that one out Nina. I actually asked the wife if she knows a Wilma in Illinois. It's not out of the question as we make two trips a year to the Rockford area to visit my kids and grand kids.

Tell red I said hello too. LOL
Greg

 

[Windyman55]

Not that I've seen.

Not that I've seen.

Coral nipper?

No. I haven't seen him nipping at any of the Corals yet. got him along with the 2 Yellow Head jawfish from a seller on Fleabay in Puerto Rico I believe. He is a very passive little sole. But I'm already getting worried about how large he will become. He was barely an inch when I got him about 45 days ago or so and has already added about an inch in size. He's really amusing. Reminds me of a little helicopter.
Thanks for the reply.
Greg

 

[Windyman55]

Additional flow.

Additional flow.

Windyman, that there is some of the funniest stuff I have read all week. Just to make it clear, I'm not laughing at your problems, just the way you got involved in the hobby.

Your wife was right as far as they way she used to do it. What could be easier than running a seawater tank when you have easy access to clean seawater. No buying salt, mixing with filtered water, dedicated saltwater holding tanks, elevated levels of trace elements in ASW - just buckets, siphons, and salinity checks. Just fresh seawater complete with coral food (plankton) and the slight risk of introducing a pest into your tank.

As for the cost, yeah, that's a problem. It's just as true for a 50 gallon tank.

As to your problems. I think it's best to slow down and let things stabilize, stop throwing equipment at your issues. I see a thick layer of sand in your tank. That can develop issues by itself, but they are good at removing Nitrate, you should not need an additional nitrate filter. 400 snails? Remember that Nassarius can only eat meaty foods. Unless you are really shoveling so much food in there that you need more than a few (Which will cause Nitrate problems by itself) they will starve to death which will cause further Nitrate problems when they start to decay. Ceriths are good to have, but do you really have an algae problem? Snails can only eat thin films of green and brown algae, no other kind. The fact that your previous snails died out should tell you something is wrong. You're pretty heavily stocked, and your rockwork looks well packed, so make sure your skimmer is working well, increase the current (especially through the rock), and stop the livestock addition - you don't need the additional snails. Nitrate will come down when your tanks ability to process waste matches what's going on in there.

Edit: Thegrun is right about the current, you have to increase it.

Glad I could bring a smile to your face. You bring up a topic I had never really looked into before about the rate of flow. The combined flow is only about 2,500 gallons an hour. It occurred to me that the sump pump is only rated for the smaller tank I picked up in South Carolina. It was only 25 gallons small than my tank. But maybe that pump was to small for that tank as well. The tag on the pump says 1,150 gallons of water with a 4 to 5 foot head. So, if I need to get to at least 4,000 gallons an hour obetween the pump and power heads which which would be the best way to do that? in the sump? Bigger power heads? Or a combination of Both? Right now I have the gate valve coming in to the sump from the tank nearly closed so the pump can keep up. So I'm thinking more flow through the sump to the 4 directional return ports in the tank. Your thoughts?
Thanks
Greg

 

[Windyman55]

Flow?

Flow?

Ammonia and Nitrites do indicate a big problem. Get a second set of independent test from LFS or another Reefer to verify results and then if needed I'd definitely run some poly pads in sump as well as introduce some Amquel or Prime to lock up that ammonia. If you have used Amqual or other like product you may be getting a false readings, but the Nitrite readings indicate your Nitrogen Cycle is not keeping up with that large bio load you have in the tank. Skim hard and wet. Run GFO and GAC in a dual reactor. Stop feeding coral, and only feed fish the minimum. Also be careful with those Radions and run at 40% and work your way up.

Two things. the wife is definitely the over feeder. Of course she "read' somewhere that they should be fed 3 times a day. Seems excessive to me I did get here to cut down on the noon feeding from frozen bine to a sprinkle or two of flakes. but still seems like too much. given the stock I have listed. ny idea of quantity and frequency of feeding?

And you bring up a topic I had never really looked into before about the rate of flow. The combined flow is only about 2,500 gallons an hour. It occurred to me that the sump pump is only rated for the smaller tank I picked up in South Carolina. It was only 25 gallons small than my tank. But maybe that pump was to small for that tank as well. The tag on the pump says 1,150 gallons of water with a 4 to 5 foot head. So, if I need to get to at least 4,000 gallons an hour between the pump and power heads which would be the best way to do that? in the sump? Bigger power heads? Or a combination of Both? Right now I have the gate valve coming in to the sump from the tank nearly closed so the pump can keep up. So I'm thinking more flow through the sump to the 4 directional return ports in the tank. Your thoughts?
Thanks
Greg

 

[Ratpack]

And you bring up a topic I had never really looked into before about the rate of flow. The combined flow is only about 2,500 gallons an hour. It occurred to me that the sump pump is only rated for the smaller tank I picked up in South Carolina. It was only 25 gallons small than my tank. But maybe that pump was to small for that tank as well. The tag on the pump says 1,150 gallons of water with a 4 to 5 foot head. So, if I need to get to at least 4,000 gallons an hour between the pump and power heads which would be the best way to do that? in the sump? Bigger power heads? Or a combination of Both? Right now I have the gate valve coming in to the sump from the tank nearly closed so the pump can keep up. So I'm thinking more flow through the sump to the 4 directional return ports in the tank. Your thoughts?
Thanks
Greg

Slow flow through the sump isn't necessarily a bad thing. It will allow things to settle in the sump where they can be skimmed out or cleaned easier than in the tank itself. The flow should be more in the tank itself using powerheads, closed loop or whatever means. Most just use powerheads.

Look into some powerheads such as the Vortechs or Jebao or Tunze. They are variable flow so you can adjust them to fit your livestock needs. I have the Jebao units in my 75 gal and love them. Lots of random flow. And since they are variable, I suggest going bigger than you need on the upper side. In my 75 gal I have two RW-15's, so I can easily ramp the flow up to 8000 gal/hr, but currently keep it lower. But it is nice to have that flow when I want to stir things up so it gets filtered out.

 

[Al]

So, if I need to get to at least 4,000 gallons an hour obetween the pump and power heads which which would be the best way to do that? in the sump? Bigger power heads?

Using a huge return pump for current does have one advantage - you won't have to look at more powerheads in your tank. All other ways, no. You would have increased noise as water rushed through the plumbing, you'd be using a lot more electricity for the same amount of increased current, and you'd have dead areas in your tank and a firehose effect around your return pipes.

The best way would be with a few more powerheads. I use Tunzes myself. Their magnetic mounts make them easy to place and the more recent production are quiet and very reliable. Make sure that current is sweeping through your rockwork, preventing detritus from settling there.

 

[CamDAX]

Sounds like the The Big Kahuna is a denitrator reactor. This can be useful but since you have only had it in the tank for 3 months it's probably just now starting to really get to work. They have to cycle just like a tank. If someone said "Aquaripure filters are also "pre-populated" with more beneficial bacteria than ever to start working fast" this is probably BS.

That Hippo Tang might out grow your tank eventually.

I also say let things sit and watch your ammonia, nitrites, & nitrates. I suggest you read up on tank chemistry. I hear dosing vodka can be complicated and should only be used by and experienced reefer. Read the stickys

Ya don't worry about your flow rate right now. It sounds like its not to low.

You use RO or RO/DI water?

Post some photos of your filtration setup so we can get a better idea of whats going on.

 

[Windyman55]

About the Radions

About the Radions

Ammonia and Nitrites do indicate a big problem. Get a second set of independent test from LFS or another Reefer to verify results and then if needed I'd definitely run some poly pads in sump as well as introduce some Amquel or Prime to lock up that ammonia. If you have used Amqual or other like product you may be getting a false readings, but the Nitrite readings indicate your Nitrogen Cycle is not keeping up with that large bio load you have in the tank. Skim hard and wet. Run GFO and GAC in a dual reactor. Stop feeding coral, and only feed fish the minimum. Also be careful with those Radions and run at 40% and work your way up.

I have the radions mounted. But Now I'm thinking 3 may be over kill.
The coverage for 1 is 30x30. I have 3 for a tank 6 feet by 24" from front to back at the front center of the tank (it's a bowed front) and only 16" on the ends. 24 inches deep. 150 gallons. Your thoughts gentleman?
Greg

 

[Mcgeezer]

Phosphate is way too high
Alkalinity is way too low

Any ammonia reading is BAD

Use an ammonia reducer ASAP and do a big water change. Use high quality GFO to eliminate phosphate, and use a good source of sodium bicarbonate for raising your alkalinity. Using a liquid based bottled two part solution is probably your best best in getting started in properly dosing ca/Dkh to proper levels.

Large water changes will reduce nitrates. Another good method is macro algae in your sump. It will also reduce phosphates.

There is no doubt over feeding is the root cause. Eliminate the root cause and you can begin to resolve the problem. Have a talk with the wifey.

 

[JammyBirch]

i'm new to this so please feel free to jump all over this...

My opinion is that you have too much livestock in this tank for it's age, i'm guessing you don't have an established bio filter, meaning enough bacteria to process the fish waste (ammonia to nitrite to nitrate) in the tank yet.

You could buy the bacteria since you are already stocked this is the only thing i could think of that would immediately start processing the ammonia. I have been blasted in the past for mentioning this but i don't really care, i'm not selling it i have used it and it works really well. DR. TIMS ONE AND ONLY NITRIFYING BACTERIA... check it out.

Phosphate is actually an easy one, i think, run a GFO reactor...i have a 2 little fishes running constantly. I use a cup of GFO per month, you would need to run much more since you're 6 times the size of my system.

The other thing i would do is have a bigger sump, i like a sump to be big enough for a refugium, rubble, chaeto ( to help with Ph overnight) and a deep sand bed crawling with clean up crew (snails and crabs). The CUC in the sump is really the work horse they do nothing but work all day and all night eating detritis and managing the crap... Plus in the sump i son't have to look at them, they are totally happy in there working away.

Good luck with this project, i hope you get this straightened out.