What are the "tell-tale" signs that Alk is too high

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6843078#post6843078 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jsweir
If you find a cure for high alk, please share it. I have a dkh of 11 - 12 continuously. I have tried water changes and adding CaCl to try to upset the balance. My Ca runs around 420 and Mg at 1350...
Exact same situation...I dropped the the use of kalk; now currently use only a reactor...I think the kalk was elevating my alk too much. But, water changes are not reducing alk. I think the only solution is to 'fiddle' with my reactor (turn off or reduce BC/circulation)...btw...running BB; no sand.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6843195#post6843195 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wakefreak33
I have a very recent episode with this same problem....In my attempt to raise my pH, my kalk climbed from the 7-8 range it has been at for months up to 12-13. This has been going on for the last 2 weeks. I now have three corals slowly STNing from the base, in the last week.... I would attribute the STN to the higher alk, but it could just be from the change.
In my situation, any changes in alk I would consider minor (I would say stable), but remain around 12 and have been that way for months. :rolleyes: But still getting STN (from the base...on some of my stags including encrusted frags originating from corals undergoing STN).
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6856391#post6856391 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nunez1980
TA,

about the last part, have you check for parasites?

sam
No RB (interceptor-treated)
AEFW...I would say 'no'. But I have wondered.
Others?
 
When my test kit went bad, it was saying I had ~2 meq/L. So I continually added NaHCO3 to raise it. When some corals began to decalcify, I bought a new one only to see I had about 8 meq/L of alkalinity. So, a highly increased alk would also result in much less calcium, therefore, decalcification. I only think this is in the extremes though. There was never any RTN or STN.
 
May I ask what your levels are at Meq/L are? The Sea chem test kit does it by that and they say around 4-6 meq/l is where you want to be. How do you transfer that into DKH??
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6856501#post6856501 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TA
No RB (interceptor-treated)
AEFW...I would say 'no'. But I have wondered.
Others?

I would take a closer look into acro flat worms,

first sign to look for them is the bleaching from the bottom up...

a few months back I had an issue with a stag I bought, and notice it, check all parameters, and everything fine, next step was to check for parasites, and when through the list, and sure enough it was AFW, saw the eggs, and a few, to not take any chances, I cut the based, the stag grew a new based and all is fine,

I would check into it, cause I just don't see a alk of 12dKh to be a problem if keep stable.

those people that have reported bleaching of corals, it mainly happened because of a drop of alk, shocking the system, not the actual 12dKH,

search on AFW, bad parasite, cause you can't see it on the coral, specially while under water,

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=786657&highlight=acro+and+flat

and you might have a new parasite, now days anything is possible, it seem that everyday there is something to worry about :rolleyes:

good luck,

sam
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6856556#post6856556 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by saltman1
May I ask what your levels are at Meq/L are? The Sea chem test kit does it by that and they say around 4-6 meq/l is where you want to be. How do you transfer that into DKH??

Multiply the meq/L value by 2.8 to get the dKH value.
 
So keeping the Alk at 4 Meq/l as suggested by Seachem would be close to 11-12 range dkh which where my tank is now...this is too high??
 
I had a reactor mishap and my alk went to 15dkh. I did notice "alk burn" on the tips of some SPS. The tips get white and snotty but the flesh is still there.
 
Amphiprion - for corals to decalcify you would need an extremely low ph similar to in a Ca+ reactor. You probably saw dead tissue (bare skeleton) not decalcification.
 
Sam...I hear ya!

I'm not convinced either way whether I have AEFW or not. Even went so far as to get some Levamisole to try. Of course I can't be sure, but see no eggs, pulled corals and frags out with similar problems and allow them to "dry out" a bit...still unable to see any; used a turkey baster in a small bowl-test...nothing; even sacrificed a couple small frags...nothing on them at all. Even so, I'm not convinced that I don't have them...just don't see any signs of them. But, I'll keep looking.
 
I find that when my DKH is at 12 and my calcium is at 450, this is the time when my corals colors seem to be the best. I purposely try to maintain a DKH level of 12. Just my own 2 cents.
 
same

same

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6857296#post6857296 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reefcrazed
I find that when my DKH is at 12 and my calcium is at 450, this is the time when my corals colors seem to be the best. I purposely try to maintain a DKH level of 12. Just my own 2 cents.
I do the same with great results
 
my tank also looks significantly better when i run 12dkh. coralline hardly grows till i get it up there.
 
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