What does a successful QT system look like?

[mkart]

I have had a heck of a time getting fish to my DT. When I first purchased this system from another reefer I brought it home, set it up and the few fish that came with it were happy and healthy. I then went to an LFS bought a $30 Royal Gramma and added it without QT. All fish in the tank died within 48 hrs of what appeared to be Velvet! I then left the tank fallow for 3 months and over the last 5-6 months slowly managed to get a few fish through QT and into the DT. I have lost more fish than kept unfortunately. I feel like I have researched more than most and certainly spent more time and money than most I know in the hobby trying to get it right. What does a good system look like? I recently decided to try the tank transfer II system in hopes of being more successful. I bought 5 10g tanks, heaters, air stones...etc. First fish I bought was a hippo tang which looked great at the store. 24 hours later in the first tank with new saltwater it looked dusted like Velvet. I immediately started dosing cupramine bringing it up to .5, hanna tester, by the second day of the second tank and it did not make it. This is all to common of an occurrence for me. I can't get a fish at an LFS that doesn't quickly show signs of ick or velvet or cloudy eyes...etc. It seems the only way to get fish to the DT is to master quarantine and I can't seem to find that method. Anyone have a long term successful method? I don't mind spending the money on the gear I need and certainly don't mind the effort. Just want to find success. Most who I talk to don't QT and the stores don't encourage it around here. I don't want to risk that again but have to say my loss was less 5 years ago when I did not QT fish.

Tonight I saw Humblefish's post regarding his setup with 20g and 40g tanks with sand and HOB filters. Maybe that is it? Maybe I need to switch to Copper Power from cupramine, 0% survival rate when I try to use cupramine so far. I have lost well over $1,000 of fish so far and that's obviously not good for the fish or me.

What are you doing that is successful?

 

[ThRoewer]

One of the most important things in this hobby is to learn to tell sick fish from healthy. I got to train that when I started with reef tanks while still in school and having little money to waste. So I spent long hours at the fish store observing those fish I was interested in to make sure they wouldn't have any tells of an occult infection like elevated breathing, rubbing on rocks or sand, clamping fins, apathy, hiding,... And then there are of course the obvious signs like white spots, discolorations, "dusted" looking skin, whitish slime coat,... I avoided any fish that behaved abnormal or had the slightest sign of an infection. I still picked a few bad ones and learned from that. I also learned quickly which stores had overall healthy fish and clean systems and which stores had a multitude of diseases in their tanks. The latter are the ones you don't want to buy fish from.
A successful quarantine system and procedure begins with picking fish that are as healthy as possible. If you start with fish that are already sick your chances of getting them through QT alive are greatly reduced.
The next step is some preventative treatment. I generally give each new fish a formalin bath to kill off those parasites that sit loosely on the skin.

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[Dmorty217]

I have a 20g and a 40g I use regularly to QT and a 125g if the fish is large or high dollar. I don't use copper at all. Fish come in get a 50 min formalin bath followed by going into the QT that has chloroquine phosphate in it for 14 days then observe for a month after with no meds

 

[mkart]

I have a 20g and a 40g I use regularly to QT and a 125g if the fish is large or high dollar. I don't use copper at all. Fish come in get a 50 min formalin bath followed by going into the QT that has chloroquine phosphate in it for 14 days then observe for a month after with no meds

Do you observe them in the same tank that you treat in.

Also I have been using Safety Stop on all fish before QT which I believe covers the formalin bath. Not sure where to buy chloroquine phosphate.

 

[Dmorty217]

I do observe them in the same tank. Chloroquine is broken down by the bacteria in our tanks so after a water change and not redosing the CP every day or 3rd day if you have a established QT, the CP will be well below the levels its effective against ich, urenoma, and velvet.
www.humble.fish

 

[mkart]

I am going to order copper power to use instead of cupramine. If I can find a way to get Chloroquine Phosphate I will but I don’t have a vet that I know to get it from. I have a 6 line wrasse that was with the hippo tang and is going into the 4th transfer tomorrow. I also have a blue spot puffer with cloudy eyes and a domino damsel in a 28 gallon nano QT with only prazipro at the moment.

 

[Uncle99]

Is your source for fish the same?
I buy only from LFS stores which have the expertise in importing, QTing, and treating fish before they will sell to me.
Not once in 30 years has my LFS sold me a sick fish.

In my area there are 15 LFS, yet, I only purchase from three.

Once their QT is finished, they will transfer a fish to a secondary QT in which the customers name is placed for an additional week or two. Then, just before you pick it up, they will feed the fish for you.

Likely why the store has been in business for 35 years.

I am lucky not to have to buy any fish on-line.

 

[mkart]

Is your source for fish the same?

I buy only from LFS stores which have the expertise in importing, QTing, and treating fish before they will sell to me.

Not once in 30 years has my LFS sold me a sick fish.



In my area there are 15 LFS, yet, I only purchase from three.



Once their QT is finished, they will transfer a fish to a secondary QT in which the customers name is placed for an additional week or two. Then, just before you pick it up, they will feed the fish for you.



Likely why the store has been in business for 35 years.



I am lucky not to have to buy any fish on-line.

No stores in my area QT fish. They may add copper to some of their systems but no true QT.


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