What does your Quarantine system look like ?

reefrubble

Premium Member
I am trying to get some ideas to build a new quarantine set up . I want something large enough for fish , and invertebrates . I have a 75 gal . tank just collecting dust . I also have a good skimmer I can use , but I would like some ideas on setting it up . I don't want something hard to take care of .

TIA , Ted
 
FOr my new setup, ive got a 10 gal full of scrap pvc conduit of different sizes along with a few egg crate stands to elevate coral closer to the light. Ill be lighting it with a 70 watt clamp halide when corals are in there or a cheap hood with 2 sockets for standar bublbs that ive switched to daylight pc twisties. so the fish cant just out. I have a HOB small filter with a bio type cartridge in it running on the DT;s sump so that when the time comes I can just put it on the QT. Once QT is up I will disinfect the filter and return it to the sump to be ready for the next time.

HTH

OOPs, barebottom of course
 
Your 75 would be great for most any sized fish. But it is large for QT corals.

It does not take a lot to QT SPS and other corals.

I QT coral and fish in a 20L with a heavily modded BakPak skimmer, one Tunze nano PH, a heater and a 175w MH light. I have it under my display and a can open a valve from my drain line to add system water to the QT for water changes. This also helps acclimate the critters.

The only limitation in QTing fish in the same tank as corals is you can not treat the fish with certain chems such as copper. That has to be done in a seperate tank.
 
My QT will be a 24G JBJ nano cube with a custom LED unit on top.

Flow will be maxijets and koralias.

I doubt I will do a skimmer, but am considering drilling the tank so I can plumb in a sump so I can do a small skimmer if I change my mind (likely).

Treatments will be Bayer insecticide every five days for 60 days (maybe 45 days).

I plan to cut the base off of any frags I get and pitch them. Fresh cut frags are your friend when it comes to AEFW.
 
I would not QT fish with corals for several reasons. First, if a fish comes down with anything in your QT, you're out of luck...it'll need treatment in a fish-only tank. Second, I personally prefer to run a coral QT without fish to minimize pollution...and fish picking on new corals (same goes for hermit crabs...they love to pick at new corals too much.) Third, fish usually need a larger aquarium...one that you'll quickly fill with corals. Those corals will then get much less attention. You won't notice the bubble algae, AEFW, red bugs, etc as easily as you would've with a smaller coral-dominate QT.

My fish QT is a 20g tank with a heater, Koralia, ammonia badge, thermometer, and fish dividers if needed. Really simple...no need for anything more than normal flourescents for lighting.

My coral QT is a 10g tank with a 10g sump. Has a Koralia, heater, thermometer, Tunze skimmer, GFO/carbon reactor, return pump, and a 150W MH. Bought all that for about $250.

Medications are the most important...last thing you want is to realize something is dying at midnight...and have no access to meds. I have Coral Rx, Lugol's, Flatworm Exit, Potassium Permanganate, Copper, Formalin, Interceptor, Methylene Blue, PraziPro, Erythromycin, Furan 2, Fluke Tabs, you name it. After almost 5 years in the hobby, I've used everything except Interceptor in an emergency. Having a store on hand will quickly pay for itself. Worst case, go in together as a few friends or as a club to set up an "emergency aid" kit.

I cut corals off all plugs, dip for pests (and treat if necessary), superglue cover any dead tissue/rock, place on a new plug, then place in QT for ~6 weeks. I repeat the process for a secondary QT...and then eventually the coral goes in the main tank.
 
My quarantine system is as follows, I have five tanks available, none are running at all times, two 10 gallons, two 20 longs and a 30 breeder. I figure with these I can quarantine anything I want that will fit in my tanks.

All have basic components, 5x over recommended filtration(aquaclear 500's from my freshwater days, one per ten gallons, I have four), a heater, pvc for fish, lighting diffuser for corals, window screen lids, and two Workhorse 5 ballast to run whatever extra bulbs I have around for corals. I just connect from ballast to bulb and coat with liquid "electrical tape". I do 50% daily water changes for fish and 25% weekly water changes for inverts. Polyfilter in filters, and if not medicating, chemipure in filters. May sound more complex than it is.

As a rule, one 20 and 30 are fish-only due to fish medications used in them previously. Not sure if it really matters, but I'm overly cautious.
 
i have 2, a 10 gal all in one for small fish with a PC in there and a 24x24x14 for larger fish and coral (not at same time) with a deltec MCE600 tunze 6045 and if fish UV steralizer lit with 6 x24W T5 unit.

the 10 gal gets 25% daily WC abd the 24x24x14 3 x 25% weekly wc.
 
FOr my new setup, ive got a 10 gal full of scrap pvc conduit of different sizes along with a few egg crate stands to elevate coral closer to the light. Ill be lighting it with a 70 watt clamp halide when corals are in there or a cheap hood with 2 sockets for standar bublbs that ive switched to daylight pc twisties. so the fish cant just out. I have a HOB small filter with a bio type cartridge in it running on the DT;s sump so that when the time comes I can just put it on the QT. Once QT is up I will disinfect the filter and return it to the sump to be ready for the next time.

HTH

OOPs, barebottom of course

I thank you very much your input .
 
Your 75 would be great for most any sized fish. But it is large for QT corals.

It does not take a lot to QT SPS and other corals.

I QT coral and fish in a 20L with a heavily modded BakPak skimmer, one Tunze nano PH, a heater and a 175w MH light. I have it under my display and a can open a valve from my drain line to add system water to the QT for water changes. This also helps acclimate the critters.

The only limitation in QTing fish in the same tank as corals is you can not treat the fish with certain chems such as copper. That has to be done in a seperate tank.

I already have the 75 , and an I-Tech 200 skimmer . I have a sump room , so I don't have to keep anything under my tank . I like your idea about draining off some tank water to add to the QT . That sounds great to acclimate things to your DT. Right now I am dealing with AEFW , so using my DT water would infect my QT . I have removed all Acros from my DT . , so any AEFWs , and eggs in the DT will die off . I need to Quarantine Acros ,while the DT remains fallow . I got the AEFWs because I was stupid , and added some Acro frags , from what I thought was a safe source. Now everything new will get Dipped , and Quarantined .
 
My QT will be a 24G JBJ nano cube with a custom LED unit on top.

Flow will be maxijets and koralias.

I doubt I will do a skimmer, but am considering drilling the tank so I can plumb in a sump so I can do a small skimmer if I change my mind (likely).

Treatments will be Bayer insecticide every five days for 60 days (maybe 45 days).

I plan to cut the base off of any frags I get and pitch them. Fresh cut frags are your friend when it comes to AEFW.

Cutting the base off the frag is a good idea . I don't know much about the Bayer insecticide dip . Has it proven to be safe ?
 
i have 2, a 10 gal all in one for small fish with a PC in there and a 24x24x14 for larger fish and coral (not at same time) with a deltec MCE600 tunze 6045 and if fish UV steralizer lit with 6 x24W T5 unit.

the 10 gal gets 25% daily WC abd the 24x24x14 3 x 25% weekly wc.

Thank you for bringing up the UV . I have one , and I think it is a good idea to add that to a QT .

Thank you , Ted
 
377979292_photobucket_39882_.jpg

here's mine. Just a 10 gallon with a maxijet, a small heater, a hang on back filter and a t5 fixture
 
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