what eats bryopsis

Allmost

New member
Hello,
so anyone have a sure predator for bryopsis ?

friends 300 DD is infested with it, he has 3 tangs, none touch it !

Im thinking urchins dont really discriminate between algae types , is that the best option ?

he doesnt have a Naso tang, and doesnt want one lol there is an anchilles tang in there already, purple and blue tangs too, none touch this stuff

thanks.
 
Hello,
so anyone have a sure predator for bryopsis ?

friends 300 DD is infested with it, he has 3 tangs, none touch it !

Im thinking urchins dont really discriminate between algae types , is that the best option ?

he doesnt have a Naso tang, and doesnt want one lol there is an anchilles tang in there already, purple and blue tangs too, none touch this stuff

thanks.

Not much will touch it. From what I've seen now and reports are that foxface/rabbit fish may. It's always a crap shoot what will or wont even if it is listed that they do. Urchin may eat it as well but then you better like urchins as you now have one in your tank and not all are coral safe and the ones that are typically like to rescape your tank.
 
Sadly, my experience says that raising your Mg level may slow it, but it will not rid the problem from your tank. Even worse, once you have bryopsis, it will never be truly eradicated but rather controlled.

Having said that I think the first step is to learn what your nitrate and phosphate levels are. There are many, many choices for examining those aspects of your tank and equally as many opinions on what to use. I will say that I am currently using Red Sea Pro test kits which are new and claim to be of an improved quality. My personal opinion so far is that they are in fact superior to most previous tests, and provide accurate information.

Now assuming you get your nitrates to less than 1 ppm and your phosphates to less than 0.01 ppm then you can start to look at a clean up crew. It's not cheap, but I had a serious infestation in August and it's almost totally gone now, and I used my "regular purchase". For a 240 gallon display I purchased 100 Turbo snails, 100 micro-blue leg hermits, and 24 emerald crabs. I think the general idea here is to introduce so many algae eaters that they quickly exhaust the supply of algae and eat anything they can find . . . HOWEVER . . . (and I wish I had had a camera) today I added 6 tiny emeralds to my display and placed them by hand in an area where I saw bryopsis and everyone immediately, and I mean immediately, started eating the small patch of bryopsis, BUT I believe they have to be close to starvation before they go for bryopsis.

Of course, all of this is highly circumstantial and written on the internet which is notoriously bad for providing worthwhile info so as a minor point of contention that maybe . . . just maybe . . . I know what I'm talking about . . . here are some photos of my tank :artist:

Joe









FTS5-2.jpg


BigH.jpg


wholetank1.jpg
 
Sadly, my experience says that raising your Mg level may slow it, but it will not rid the problem from your tank. Even worse, once you have bryopsis, it will never be truly eradicated but rather controlled.

Kent Tech M will rid your tank of bryopsis if you use it correctly. Not control it, but eradicate it. I did in my 300 gallon DD tank two years ago and it has not come back. Here are my dosing insructions that worked for me.

And BTW, Red Sea magnesium test kits read higher than Salifert or Elos at any concentration. I would use Elos or Salifert before Red Sea any day.

Tech M dosing instructions:

Acroporaddict's Tech M Dosing Instructions

This is the method that worked for me. Of course, you follow these at your own risk, etc.

1. Get enough Tech M to do the job. Do not use mag sulfate or mag chloride to raise the mag level so you don't have to use as much Tech M. If you do this you are not adding the trace element or whatever is in the Tech M that actually kills the Bryopsis. Start from whatever your mag level is and raise it only using Tech M.

2. Get a quality test kit, like an Elos or a Salifert. Test every day when you are raising mag levels and when you are maintaining mag levels. Salifert test kits only read to 1500 ppm, so when you know your mag levels are over 1500, you add 1 ml of the #3 reagent and then draw up another 1 ml per the instructions. When you get the color change, reference the chart for the ppm, then add 1500 to this for the total ppm.

3. If you use them, I would eliminate the use of any Poly Filters or the like during the time you are raising the Mag level to 1800 with Tech M until the time your mag level drops to 1350 as described in step 6. Poly filters can remove metals, and since no one knows, you might remove the trace element that is actually killing the bryopsis if you use poly filters. Carbon is fine.

4. Raise your magnesium with Tech M by 100 ppm/day until you reach 1800. Test every day and maintain this level in your reef for two weeks straight. Do not do any water changes during this time. If you do water changes, then make sure you add enough Tech M to the tank to maintain the mag at 1800. The idea is to get enough exposure time at that level so whatever trace element is killing the Bryopsis has enough time to work.

The 1800 mag level is an indirect indicator of the concentration whatever trace element in the Tech M is killing the Bryopsis. Length of exposure at the right concentration seems to be the key to eliminating vs just suppressing the Bryopsis.

5. If you have a lot of Bryopsis in your tank, manually remove as much as possible when it starts to weaken and die. This will eliminate/minimize an ammonia spike that can result from the decaying Bryopsis.

6. After you have maintained a mag level of 1800 for two weeks, start doing your normal water changes. Do not do them more often that usual. You will have elevated magnesium levels for a period afterwards, several weeks probably. This is not an issue. Let the level come back to the normal 1350 or so thru regular water changes and use by the corals.

7. Possible effects on animals and corals. I had some turbo snails die in the time my mag levels were elevated. I also had some montiporas lightly bleach on me, but they recovered quickly. I lost no SPS, LPS or soft corals as a result of using Tech M in the manner I have just described.

Again, please keep in mind that the above regimen worked for me. Know that Kent Tech M is not manufactured or intended by Kent Marine as an algaecide against Bryopsis. The effect of Tech M on Bryopsis is a side effect of this product when it is used at a much higher than normal concentration, so all treatment regimens for Bryopsis by me or anyone else are based on anecdotal experience only.
 
ok thanks guys,

tech M , unless someone can tell me exactly why it would work, I wouldnt try it :) its a heavily stocked SPS tank, and the MG runs at 1300 PPM.

as I have been looking over his tank since the start, I realized that the large fish feeding done at the beginning is now catching up, and bryopsis is taking up the po4 which was precipitated .. its one of the algae that has the capability to use its enzymes to break down and use po4 that has been precipitated.

so I started with a tuxido Urchin last night, will see how it goes, I dropped it on a patch of bryopsis, and it stayed there doing something ... I had to leave so will check again today to see how it does. if not good, I will try long spine urchin next.

system is pretty clean now, 25% water change weekly, sand siphoned and po4 on hanna reads zero and no3 undetectable. but I just look at the SPS instead of testing most of the times. ...


Beautiful tank JPMagyar by the way :)

thanks again guys,
 
I beat bryopsis almost 18 months ago with Tech M by raising the mag to 1700. I also was lucky enough to find a yellow tang that eats it too.
 
ok thanks guys,

tech M , unless someone can tell me exactly why it would work, I wouldnt try it :) its a heavily stocked SPS tank, and the MG runs at 1300 PPM.
QUOTE]

I haven't yet heard of any negative side effects to using Kent M at 1700ppm to eradicate bryopsis. I can testify it worked for me without any visible damage to my SPS dominated mixed reef tank other than the elimination of the bryopsis. I also have not heard any definitive reason why Kent Tech M works, but it does.
 
ok thanks guys,

tech M , unless someone can tell me exactly why it would work, I wouldnt try it :) its a heavily stocked SPS tank, and the MG runs at 1300 PPM.
QUOTE]

I haven't yet heard of any negative side effects to using Kent M at 1700ppm to eradicate bryopsis. I can testify it worked for me without any visible damage to my SPS dominated mixed reef tank other than the elimination of the bryopsis. I also have not heard any definitive reason why Kent Tech M works, but it does.

besides snails not doing well ? salinity increase caused by MG increase ?

I know what you mean though, and I have tried that before on my own tanks, sometimes worked sometimes didnt, but I can be certain its not the MG that's doing it. could be the increase in salinity, could be other things .... which is why I wont try it on someone elses tank :) [being an engineer, I need to know why first lol ]

for all I know it can make certain things in water precipitate out with the mg solution, setlle somewhere in tank, starving the bryopsis, which is kind of a ticking bomb till another algae with enzymes starts breaking that compound up.

thanks again, so if anyone HAS A fish or invert that is eating bryopsis, I would love to know :)
 
I just recently killed off a GIANT bryopsis problem I had using only Tech M...I raised my Mag up to 1800 in the matter of 4 days and left it there for 2 weeks. No snails died, no corals were affected the only thing that died was the bryopsis. I've found that when the algae finally was wilting away my rabbitfish would start attacking it. I havent seen a single strand of it anywhere since. This was a couple months ago

BRS Mag does NOT work..as I tried this first and then went the Tech M route.
 
ok thanks guys,

tech M , unless someone can tell me exactly why it would work, I wouldnt try it :) its a heavily stocked SPS tank, and the MG runs at 1300 PPM.,

My 300 gallon tank was heavy SPS a the time, and Tech M had no negative impact, other than a slight bleaching of my montiporas, and they quickly recovered.
Sorry, but you will not find exactly why Tech M works on Bryopsis. Tech M has about 18 different ionic trace elements in it, including copper, selenium, and others, and I believe it is one of these traces that is the Bryopsis Killer. If the manufacturer identified the trace element killing the Bryopsis as algaecidal, then they'd have to deal with a host of FDA/EPA regulations pertaining to it.

Here are the ingredients/traces in Tech M:

Deionized water containing the following elements (as ions): magnesium, chlorine, sulfur, calcium, potassium, bromine, strontium, boron, fluorine, lithium, rubidium, iodine, iron, molybdenum, zinc, nickel, copper, manganese, vanadium, cesium, cobalt, tungsten, selenium, and chromium.

Don't use it and deal with the continual pain-in-the-butt chore of control, or use Tech M and get rid of it permanently. I haven't had bryopsis in my tank for over two years now. There is really no downside to using it except the cost of the product.

I talked with Sanjay Joshi about Tech M and he told me he thought it was the lithium in it that killed the Bryopsis. I think it is the copper, because copper is a main ingredient in freshwater algaecides.
 
Dude google Collonista Snails. I have hundreds of them in my tank and they only come out at night. I do not have one strand of Bryopsis. They are reef safe and when I first saw them I thought they were Baby mexican turbos.
 
I had luck with large mexican turbo snails. They ate any type of algae in my tank including lobophora algae. they don't live long though so prepare for that.
 
Dude google Collonista Snails. I have hundreds of them in my tank and they only come out at night. I do not have one strand of Bryopsis. They are reef safe and when I first saw them I thought they were Baby mexican turbos.

I don't see any references to Collonista snails eating bryopsis. Got one?
 
+1 on Emerald crabs. They will definitely eat Bryopsis. Another good thing to do is raise your pH using kalkwasser. Bryopsis and most nuisance algae do not like high pH. I would recommend raising pH to 8.5 if possible and adding a bunch of Emerald crabs.
 
+1 on Emerald crabs. They will definitely eat Bryopsis. Another good thing to do is raise your pH using kalkwasser. Bryopsis and most nuisance algae do not like high pH. I would recommend raising pH to 8.5 if possible and adding a bunch of Emerald crabs.

IME Emeralds don't touch bryopsis.
 
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