What heater(s) to use for a big tank?
- Thread starter agruetz
- Start date
Carpentersreef
Member
I saw a link to an OSHA webpage about the dangers of domestic hot water systems...
I think if we asked OSHA how we should heat our salt water aquariums, the LAST thing they would suggest would be to use an electric heating element that is prone to failure....:spin3:
I think if we asked OSHA how we should heat our salt water aquariums, the LAST thing they would suggest would be to use an electric heating element that is prone to failure....:spin3:
muttley000
MTS Sufferer!
I simplified mine to what Mitch described. My system is in a basement in NW Ohio, I need heat year around. If the loop was going to be sitting 3 or 4 months of the year I may have considered measures.
Carpentersreef
Member
I've read through the rest of the thread that you linked, Raul, and it seems like people's concerns are mainly around the issue of the water sitting in the pipes for an extended period of time.
I would suggest as a solution that because the heating loop is made up of flexible pipe, that during the summer when tank heating is not required, that the heating loop be propped up out of the tank water and the controller be programmed to turn the recirc pump on for a 15 minute interval every 24 hours.
That would reduce the risk of bacteria building up in the system.
Put the heating loop back into the tank water when heating season returns.
I would suggest as a solution that because the heating loop is made up of flexible pipe, that during the summer when tank heating is not required, that the heating loop be propped up out of the tank water and the controller be programmed to turn the recirc pump on for a 15 minute interval every 24 hours.
That would reduce the risk of bacteria building up in the system.
Put the heating loop back into the tank water when heating season returns.
muttley000
MTS Sufferer!
A Ranco that monitors the loop temp and a timer are a work around for the water heater taking a crap when a controller is not available. This is a weak point vs multiple electric heaters that should be dealt with when considering the payback. Since I pay much higher than average per kWh it makes sense, others mileage may vary
ChrisKirkland
Reef and Coral Fanatic
I use 2 300 watt Jager heater controlled by my apex with 2 temp probes.
sfsuphysics
Active member
You may (or may not
) want to do a search of of the terms [legionnaires disease radiant heating] you'll find a lot of information out there about that. These types of tank heating systems probably closer to a radiant heating setup than they are to a run from your water heater to any faucet. For me the longest run to any faucet is 20 to 30 feet at most. Now with radiant heat flooring system they max out at 400 feet for any particular zone. So for our usage in tanks, we probably have tubing lengths closer to that of radiant heating than we do tubing lengths for hot water runs.
Now I'm not going to be a call people out and tell them they're risking etc etc, but I will point out that they might be issues and people should know what they're getting into. I'd almost put it in the same category as using GFCI plugs in your tank. Some people use them, some people don't. How many deaths have their been due to those who didn't use GFCI plugs? Any studies out there? Small sample sizes don't negate the potential dangers.
That being said, I'm not sure if there are building code laws that require closed loops or not, you might want to use them (or the lack of them) as any sort of justification for your decision.
Also the price difference might be a couple hundred bucks at most, depending upon how aggressive you get with a heat exchanger and pump. The upside of using a closed loop system, you can use fluid other than water in your closed loop. Fluids that may have better heat transfer abilities (not sure if that would be that beneficial though)
Raul-7
Member
Sorry, the bacteria will exist within the loop since it has long runs of stagnant water and might be pumped back into your hot water system. Has nothing to do with your aquarium bacteria strains.
Carpentersreef
Member
You may (or may not
...
I did that search and here is my first result from a website Legionella.org.
What are the chances of getting Legionella from open system of hydronic radiant heat where you get your house heating and drinking water from the same source?
The risk from hydronic heating is unknown, but we know of no cases of Legionnaires' disease from such sources. However, one can contract Legionella from home water distribution systems and large building water systems. But the risk is extremely low and close to zero if you are not a cigarette smoker. And, if you were a smoker, I would quit smoking and not worry about the hydronic heat.
If you have a controller like an APEX and are not interested in an elaborate system off of your hot water heater then just get 2 titanium heaters 300ish+ watts and program them in. I will be running 2 800 watt heaters on my 300ish gallon system and will be APEX controlled and switch back and forth between the 2 of them. Overkill on the wattage yes, but rather have a heater run for minutes versus hours to heat a tank.
This is how I did mine. I was able to install the PEX in a way that allows me to pull it out of the water and just program the Apex to circulate the water once a day.
Dmorty217
Saltwater Addict
I'm going to have about 1100g system total with a 625g DT can some one send me a link or a more simplified diagram of the closed pex system? There is no way I'm going to use 3 or 4 800 watt heaters that will never turn off and only add 50$ to my electric bill each month. The tank and system will also be in a basement. Plan on keeping the tank around 74-75 degrees
Dmorty217
Saltwater Addict
No sps for me Dave, only some LPS and softies that I don't care if my fish decide to take a liking to
muttley000
MTS Sufferer!
Dmorty217
Saltwater Addict
Thank you for the link
