What is Head Loss?
- Thread starter an411
- Start date
head loss is a calculated value measured in feet that represents a theoretical maximum column of water that the pump can push up against. Imagine a pump with a piece of pipe pointing straight up. Now fill this pipe with water. Eventually, you'll add so much water that the pump can't move it any more. That's the maximum head loss.
If you're pumping DOWN to a sump, you probably don't need much pump, becausde gravity will do the work. However, be VERY careful about creating a siphon effect, where the water drains out of your RO/DI container into your sump, because there's nothing inherent in a pump's design to stop that, unless you use something like a peristaltic pump, like the LitreMeter from Spectrapure.
If you're pumping DOWN to a sump, you probably don't need much pump, becausde gravity will do the work. However, be VERY careful about creating a siphon effect, where the water drains out of your RO/DI container into your sump, because there's nothing inherent in a pump's design to stop that, unless you use something like a peristaltic pump, like the LitreMeter from Spectrapure.
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Yes, the smaller the pipe the greater the velocity thus friction loss. Fittings like elbows, tees, reducers and valves also play a part. Each one creates a restriction that adds head loss to the total.
I think the idea is the RO/DI is upstairs, maybe in the kitchen, and the sump is downstairs. I'd be more inclined just to have a gravity feed and a solenoid to regulate flow to the sump. This can be dangerous, take it from one who knows, if the solenoid fails. A double solenoid combo with both needing to open together is safer.
an411
Active member
SO waterkeeper you are saying that the auto top off is not recommended for a sump upstairs and my Ro/DI water container downstairs?
This is not going to come directly from the RO/DI unit itself.
This is the unit that I am going to be using:
http://www.aquahub.com/store/product26.html
This is not going to come directly from the RO/DI unit itself.
This is the unit that I am going to be using:
http://www.aquahub.com/store/product26.html
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
WK (and others) were interpreting your earlier posts to mean that the RO unit was UPstairs and the tank/sump were DOWNstairs. Is it that way or the opposite? Looks like what you just posted indicates the opposite.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
It's gonna be a challenge though, since the calculator is aimed at return pumps, not something as low-flow as topoff.
Can you run a line straight off the RO unit upstairs to the sump? Rather than using a storage container. That way, the house's plumbing would provide pressure to get the RO water upstairs, you wouldn't have to pump it. You could use a solenoid and float switches or a float valve to control it.
Can you run a line straight off the RO unit upstairs to the sump? Rather than using a storage container. That way, the house's plumbing would provide pressure to get the RO water upstairs, you wouldn't have to pump it. You could use a solenoid and float switches or a float valve to control it.
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
I would go the solenoid with a backup route for simplicity. A peristaltic pump would also be a good choice since they can pump against gobs of head with no problem. Make sure you have a check valve at the bottom whichever way you go to prevent backsiphonage.
an411
Active member
I guess I am confused cause I turn a ball valve or something like a ball valve to get my water from my RO/DI now running this float switch how does this turn off the water flow? does it just not allow more water to go into the sump by closing the hole in the tube or something?
won't this cause for me to waste alot of water if this unit is always running?
won't this cause for me to waste alot of water if this unit is always running?
Here's what you do.
1. you have your RO/DI unit creating fresh water. This water goes into a big container close by. You can fill this container once a week, if you like, manually. When you're not making new water, your RO/DI unit is turned off.
2. there is a pump in THAT container which has some tubing going to your sump. There is a float switch in the sump which turns this pump on and off, depending on water level in the sump.
The main point of this story is to NOT connect your RO/DI unit directly to your sump. Float switches can fail, solenoids, can fail, etc, and you don't want your RO/DI unit to run continuously and dump tons of makeup water into your sump.
1. you have your RO/DI unit creating fresh water. This water goes into a big container close by. You can fill this container once a week, if you like, manually. When you're not making new water, your RO/DI unit is turned off.
2. there is a pump in THAT container which has some tubing going to your sump. There is a float switch in the sump which turns this pump on and off, depending on water level in the sump.
The main point of this story is to NOT connect your RO/DI unit directly to your sump. Float switches can fail, solenoids, can fail, etc, and you don't want your RO/DI unit to run continuously and dump tons of makeup water into your sump.
an411
Active member
MalHavoc you got it that is what I want to do. I do not want to connect the RO/DI unit directly to the sump cause I do not want to do exactly what you stated cause with my luck t hat is what would happen I would have a living room with a swimming pool. All I want to know is know that its possible to pump water 10 ft from my basement to my sump and have it stop with a float switch. The rest I guess I will figure out.
The only other thing that I was asking if this was possible is what kinda pump will work with this cause I obviously don't need a super strong pump that can pump 700gph or anything.
The only other thing that I was asking if this was possible is what kinda pump will work with this cause I obviously don't need a super strong pump that can pump 700gph or anything.
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