What is the best to feed zoas and how?
- Thread starter 84chris
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SIR PATRICK
New member
My opinion is to give them good lighting and flow, and feed your tank. They will benefit from the adition of food (pretty much no mater what you feed) after it breaks down a bit in your water. The current will take the nutrients right to them and they will be fed.
SIR PATRICK
New member
^ works great for palys. Zoas, typically, dont have a feeding responce like that though.
SIR PATRICK
New member
^ nice food combo for feeding fish and coral all in one dose! Bet ya get plenty of fish poop.
Miketr- poop is the cheapest coral food out there! I agree 100%
Miketr- poop is the cheapest coral food out there! I agree 100%
SIR PATRICK
New member
^ they dont, kinda....
Light, and what they can get from the water column (uneaten fish food, poop, ect) is 99% of the time all they need, as long as the light is sufficiant and the nutrients are available in the water from feeding other tank inhabitants.
Light, and what they can get from the water column (uneaten fish food, poop, ect) is 99% of the time all they need, as long as the light is sufficiant and the nutrients are available in the water from feeding other tank inhabitants.
Jeff
Premium Member
Lots of people say that zoas dont eat supplimental food. i think it's one of thsoe myths that are perpetuated in forums like this. The fact that we dont see them close around food pieces like palys and other corals makes this "seem" sensible. Zoas do eat supplimental food, just not that much. The types of food that have been proven to feed sps corals are also beneficial to zoas for the most part.
Here is some information I "borrowed" from another site that I think explains it well:
Feeding your Zoanthids 101
Introduction
Have you ever asked these questions? Why are my zoanthids melting away? Why are there all these white dots on my zoanthids? Why are my zoanthids losing color? Why does it seem there is always something wrong with one zoanthid or another? And why in the world are my zoanthids not growing?
You will hear a million explanations, you will be told to do a million things, and in the end the problem just comes back. We are telling you to stop wasting time and money on iffy cures and expensive additives.
Is it true that zoanthids derive most of their energy from light? Yes, it is. But until we can give them par values of 600-1000 at 3 foot depth, this will simply be inadequate for even the most intensely lit reefs. Our only hope is to supplement their energy through proper feeding. In this article we will explore two types of foods our zoanthids need, the results they will deliver and how to combat the side effects of heavy feeding. Please bear in mind that we are assuming your tank basic water parameters to be stable and within acceptable ranges. (Ph 8-8.4, Kh 9-11, Salinity 1.024-26, Magnesium 1000+)
Organic Energy
Organic Energy, in this article, refers to all and any nutrients that have a living source. To zoanthids this is phyto and zooplankton and oyster eggs. Microscopic life forms such as the before mentioned contain the building blocks of life: acids and proteins. Every living being on the planet has them and needs them, zoanthids aren’t any different. Since salt mixes don’t contain anything organic, and, as mentioned above, light alone is not enough, we have to add these “building blocks” to our tanks in order to avoid stagnation and decline.
Let’s go over a few widely available products and highlight why they are useful to our purpose.
Kent Chromaplex – We recommend dosing 10ml per 50 gallons daily, more for heavily stocked tanks. This product contains amino and fatty acids, as well as fiber and color-enhancing carotenoids. Best used in smaller tanks, this product none the less will do wonders even in larger tanks. Does not require refrigeration.
Kent Zooplex – Identical to Chromaplex in nutrients, this product features larger particles that will work well for palythoas. Same application as Chromaplex.
DT’s Oyster Eggs - High in protein and omega-3 fatty acids, this product is best used as a supplement to your other foods. Use 2ml per 50 gallons in all but the lightest stocked tanks. At $20 per 30ml, this product is the priciest and requires freezing and thus not economical for large tanks.
DT’s Phytoplankton - Containing mostly fatty acids, this product, in our humble opinion, is too much trouble to justify its use. Must be kept refrigerated and shaken occasionally to keep it nationally valuable. If left out for too long, it’s useless to your corals and only good for your drain. If you insist on using it, we recommend it for larger tanks only as there are too many undesirable substances in it that can quickly unbalance a nano reef if used in quantities needed to feed your zoanthids.
Marine Snow - We’ve only just started using this but have had very satisfactory results so far. Its cost makes it impractical for larger tanks.
Home-Grown Phytoplankton – Should only be considered for large, well-established tanks due to large amounts of nitrates suspended in the water the phyto is grown in. Small tanks will not be able to handle these well. Will contain the same nutrients as DT’s Phytoplankton if you feed multiple strains of phytoplankton. Remember, phytoplankton harvested after day 7, will rapidly lose nutritional value to your corals.
Which one should you use? Pick the one which most closely matches your tank and don’t wait: Your zoanthids are hungry now.
Inorganic Energy
Inorganic energy refers to nutrients indispensable to zoanthids that no not come from organisms in your tank. We are, of course, referring to chemical additives collectively known as trace elements. There are many products on the market that will deliver these trace elements to your tank, too many to individually discuss. Rest assured, the vast majority of them are up to par and worth purchasing. Listed below are a number of ingredients that should be contained in the product you chose.
Manganese – Basic compound needed for photosynthesis
Iron - Basic compound needed for photosynthesis
Zinc - Basic compound needed for photosynthesis
Fluoride – Prevents infections
Iodine – Add separately
Iodine should not be contained in the product of your choice as it degrades the other compounds, but since it is vital to coral health, you chose not omit Iodine when dosing. Our favorite product is Salifert Soft Trace.
The Results
These can be separated into three major categories: Growth, coloration, and health.
Growth - As mentioned previously, zoanthids derive most of their energy from light, and since most reef tanks cannot replicate natural light levels, we must heavily supplement through feeding. Growth rates will increase visibly and explosively, turning your tank into a sea of color within a few short months.
Coloration – Like most zoanthid lovers you’ve probably noticed that colonies you’ve gotten fro the wild often and quickly lose their stellar coloration within a few weeks. It’s aggravating and disappointing. But if you stick to your heavy feeding, this will never happen again, provided you also offer bright lighting. Eventually, your tank conditions will be so beneficial; you can take browned out and unhealthy colonies and nurse them back to their former splendor.
Health – As with most living things, well-fed means healthy. Since we cannot over-feed our zoanthids, obesity won’t be a problem. What do healthy polyps mean to you? Simply no more fungal or bacterial infections, no more dipping, doctoring, or trashing your beloved zoas.
Here is some information I "borrowed" from another site that I think explains it well:
Feeding your Zoanthids 101
Introduction
Have you ever asked these questions? Why are my zoanthids melting away? Why are there all these white dots on my zoanthids? Why are my zoanthids losing color? Why does it seem there is always something wrong with one zoanthid or another? And why in the world are my zoanthids not growing?
You will hear a million explanations, you will be told to do a million things, and in the end the problem just comes back. We are telling you to stop wasting time and money on iffy cures and expensive additives.
Is it true that zoanthids derive most of their energy from light? Yes, it is. But until we can give them par values of 600-1000 at 3 foot depth, this will simply be inadequate for even the most intensely lit reefs. Our only hope is to supplement their energy through proper feeding. In this article we will explore two types of foods our zoanthids need, the results they will deliver and how to combat the side effects of heavy feeding. Please bear in mind that we are assuming your tank basic water parameters to be stable and within acceptable ranges. (Ph 8-8.4, Kh 9-11, Salinity 1.024-26, Magnesium 1000+)
Organic Energy
Organic Energy, in this article, refers to all and any nutrients that have a living source. To zoanthids this is phyto and zooplankton and oyster eggs. Microscopic life forms such as the before mentioned contain the building blocks of life: acids and proteins. Every living being on the planet has them and needs them, zoanthids aren’t any different. Since salt mixes don’t contain anything organic, and, as mentioned above, light alone is not enough, we have to add these “building blocks” to our tanks in order to avoid stagnation and decline.
Let’s go over a few widely available products and highlight why they are useful to our purpose.
Kent Chromaplex – We recommend dosing 10ml per 50 gallons daily, more for heavily stocked tanks. This product contains amino and fatty acids, as well as fiber and color-enhancing carotenoids. Best used in smaller tanks, this product none the less will do wonders even in larger tanks. Does not require refrigeration.
Kent Zooplex – Identical to Chromaplex in nutrients, this product features larger particles that will work well for palythoas. Same application as Chromaplex.
DT’s Oyster Eggs - High in protein and omega-3 fatty acids, this product is best used as a supplement to your other foods. Use 2ml per 50 gallons in all but the lightest stocked tanks. At $20 per 30ml, this product is the priciest and requires freezing and thus not economical for large tanks.
DT’s Phytoplankton - Containing mostly fatty acids, this product, in our humble opinion, is too much trouble to justify its use. Must be kept refrigerated and shaken occasionally to keep it nationally valuable. If left out for too long, it’s useless to your corals and only good for your drain. If you insist on using it, we recommend it for larger tanks only as there are too many undesirable substances in it that can quickly unbalance a nano reef if used in quantities needed to feed your zoanthids.
Marine Snow - We’ve only just started using this but have had very satisfactory results so far. Its cost makes it impractical for larger tanks.
Home-Grown Phytoplankton – Should only be considered for large, well-established tanks due to large amounts of nitrates suspended in the water the phyto is grown in. Small tanks will not be able to handle these well. Will contain the same nutrients as DT’s Phytoplankton if you feed multiple strains of phytoplankton. Remember, phytoplankton harvested after day 7, will rapidly lose nutritional value to your corals.
Which one should you use? Pick the one which most closely matches your tank and don’t wait: Your zoanthids are hungry now.
Inorganic Energy
Inorganic energy refers to nutrients indispensable to zoanthids that no not come from organisms in your tank. We are, of course, referring to chemical additives collectively known as trace elements. There are many products on the market that will deliver these trace elements to your tank, too many to individually discuss. Rest assured, the vast majority of them are up to par and worth purchasing. Listed below are a number of ingredients that should be contained in the product you chose.
Manganese – Basic compound needed for photosynthesis
Iron - Basic compound needed for photosynthesis
Zinc - Basic compound needed for photosynthesis
Fluoride – Prevents infections
Iodine – Add separately
Iodine should not be contained in the product of your choice as it degrades the other compounds, but since it is vital to coral health, you chose not omit Iodine when dosing. Our favorite product is Salifert Soft Trace.
The Results
These can be separated into three major categories: Growth, coloration, and health.
Growth - As mentioned previously, zoanthids derive most of their energy from light, and since most reef tanks cannot replicate natural light levels, we must heavily supplement through feeding. Growth rates will increase visibly and explosively, turning your tank into a sea of color within a few short months.
Coloration – Like most zoanthid lovers you’ve probably noticed that colonies you’ve gotten fro the wild often and quickly lose their stellar coloration within a few weeks. It’s aggravating and disappointing. But if you stick to your heavy feeding, this will never happen again, provided you also offer bright lighting. Eventually, your tank conditions will be so beneficial; you can take browned out and unhealthy colonies and nurse them back to their former splendor.
Health – As with most living things, well-fed means healthy. Since we cannot over-feed our zoanthids, obesity won’t be a problem. What do healthy polyps mean to you? Simply no more fungal or bacterial infections, no more dipping, doctoring, or trashing your beloved zoas.
Kataro
New member
for example... I know a local who bought a Candy Red Apple probably a month before I bought mine (we both recieved 2 polyp)... It's been almost 2 months for him (1 for me) and when I saw his, it was only starting to bud another polyp. Mine have already fully formed 1 polyp and another 2 budding out right now.
Jeff
Premium Member
If your corals are doing that well with micro foods, you should try target feeding some meaty foods. You wont believe how good they do.
gorey
New member
"Kent Chromaplex – We recommend dosing 10ml per 50 gallons daily, more for heavily stocked tanks. This product contains amino and fatty acids, as well as fiber and color-enhancing carotenoids. Best used in smaller tanks, this product none the less will do wonders even in larger tanks. Does not require refrigeration."
Has anyone ever used this, or have any comments on it??
Has anyone ever used this, or have any comments on it??
partsguy247
New member
Fish poop and TLC. Two things that make for some fast growing zoas.
prNonVTEC4u
New member
^ couldn't agree anymore!
thecaptain
New member
thinking of feeding them blender mush any recipies
