what is wrong with this fish :(

Just be sure to use the same brand test kit as the copper treatment. And be sure to weed out all the "experiential" bad info seen in this thread. Stick to the basics. It sounds like you have decent qt practice. _it happens sometimes.
 
Tile fish are difficult and the purple tile seems to be even more sensitive than other members of the tile fish family.They always try to hide in the smallest holes in addition to being excellent jumpers which is actually part of their normal behavior. On the reef they shoot up from their hiding places into the water column about 3 meters and dive back down. I think that's why the jumping is so frequent.Your fish may have scraped himself trying to get into or under the pvc.and then developed a bacterial infection.As far as copper meds it seems like cupramine is the preparation of choice here at reef central. I feel that it is to strong requires testing and is unstable.I use copper power which is chelated and very well tolerated by most fish it is once a month dosing.I drip in half dose and then other have dose the next day.ITS seems less toxic and more effective since it does not precipitate or come back into solution and kill every thing as pH rises.They also do better in pairs or groups.
 
accordsirh22,

Does indeed look like a secondary infection to an injury. Definitely not something caused by use of copper.

3FordFamily,

Immunity is only known to happen in a very limited degree with Cryptocaryon....only the specific strain the fish was exposed to and survived, with the immunity eventually being lost after a period of time without exposure to that strain. There is no immunity to any other strain that might be introduced at a later time. Immunity is not known to occur for Amyloodinium or Brooklynella. Your playing Russian Roulette, sooner or later that hammer will fall on the loaded chamber...

Dr. Pat,

Get yourself a compatible test kit for that chelated copper. You might be surprised. While it is indeed quite stable, it works by allowing a portion of the copper to be in the ionic form (this the form of Cu that kills the parasite). That portion in the ionic form can, and does, get drawn out of solution by any calcium substrate in the aquarium, as well as binding with some of the Ca dissolved in the water. That will draw down the total Cu concentration over time. The rate naturally varies by how much Ca is in the tank.
 
"I'm surprised no one else picked up on this. you are dosing copper in a tank with live rock? the rock will absorb some of the copper and release it back. it could of ODed the tank. the lvl of copper was probably all over the place. "

the rock should only release copper if the concentration in the water is lower. this is not the issue as there are dozens of other fish in the system, imo

"Just be sure to use the same brand test kit as the copper treatment. And be sure to weed out all the "experiential" bad info seen in this thread. Stick to the basics. It sounds like you have decent qt practice. _it happens sometimes. "

yes, both are seachem, and i was running the reference test as well.

"Those tilefish like to jump. I had one scape from the holes of my egg crate. Just make sure you have a tight lid. "

i actually have a pretty good bit of experience with them. this tank has window screen lid. no chance of jumping out.

"Tile fish are difficult and the purple tile seems to be even more sensitive than other members of the tile fish family.They always try to hide in the smallest holes in addition to being excellent jumpers which is actually part of their normal behavior. On the reef they shoot up from their hiding places into the water column about 3 meters and dive back down. I think that's why the jumping is so frequent.Your fish may have scraped himself trying to get into or under the pvc.and then developed a bacterial infection.As far as copper meds it seems like cupramine is the preparation of choice here at reef central. I feel that it is to strong requires testing and is unstable.I use copper power which is chelated and very well tolerated by most fish it is once a month dosing.I drip in half dose and then other have dose the next day.ITS seems less toxic and more effective since it does not precipitate or come back into solution and kill every thing as pH rises.They also do better in pairs or groups."

lots of interesting points here that i have found to not be very true through personal experience: ime, the purple is the hardiest by far. and generally they have not done well in pairs. but who knows, maybe i just got an overly aggressive one. i doubt this was the result of a scrape since it went from no visible damage to like the picture in 24 hours or less. that seems awfully fast to me, but be i am wrong.
i have been keeping tiles for around 2 years (not a super long time, but long enough to know fair bit about the basics lol)
 
Add him to ur main tank , hes suffering. Some fish dont do well in QT. He will die very soon. Loss of color and looks very weak. Has it been eating at all?
 
All I would have done is put him in hypposalinity for a few days at 1.012 and thats all. That level will kill off all kinds of parasites and infections.
 
That looked like uronema or brook or a bacterial infection. No surprise he didn't make it as copper doesn't do much to help the fish but just weakens him more.
Formalin and malachite green or maybe CP (not sure if Tilefish tolerate it) combined or followed by an antibiotic would likely have been effective.
 
Add him to ur main tank , hes suffering. Some fish dont do well in QT. He will die very soon. Loss of color and looks very weak. Has it been eating at all?

Introducing a sick fish to one's main tank is great way to introduce a disease to the main tank :rolleyes:

All I would have done is put him in hypposalinity for a few days at 1.012 and thats all. That level will kill off all kinds of parasites and infections.

1.012 is not quite low enough to treat much of anything. For Crypt. (aka ich) you need to get it down to 1.009 - 1.008 for 4 weeks....a couple of days just isn't long enough. Also some things such parasites as Amyloodinium or Uronema are not treatable by hyposalinity, and neither are bacterial problems.
 
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Introducing a sick fish to one's main tank is great way to introduce a disease to the main tank :rolleyes:



1.012 is not quite low enough to treat much of anything. For Crypt. (aka ich) you need to get it down to 1.009 - 1.008 for 4 weeks....a couple of days just isn't long enough. Also some things such parasites as Amyloodinium or Uronema are not treatable by hyposalinity, and neither are bacterial problems.

Bill mistyped, leaving out a word, "not", which I inserted for him in bold. Amyloodinium and Uronema are not treatable by hyposalinity.
 
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