What the lowest cost router you would use to clean edges on acrylic?

[bad coffee]

I picked up a cheapo Ryobi with the table for $99 at home depot.

It's only a 1/4" chuck, and it is pretty whimpy, but for everything I do it fits the bill.

Plus, I live in an apartment and it's not too big to move around.

BC

 

[highquality]

3/8 acrylic and doing the pin method. so the porter cable for about 140.00 $ should be good? Ok, next can I mount it to my table saw or should I buy a router table or should I just use a straight edge and shave off 1/32 by hand? If I should mount it to table saw how do I do that? is there a kit?

 

[highquality]

I was looking at that last night.

 

[MinibowMatt]

build a small plywood table. cut a hole out of the center, and screw the router to the underside of the table. You dont really need a fence, as the bit should/could have a bearing. just use a straight piece of lumber /hardboard as the bearing guide.

 

[hllywd]

The table on my saw was already set up to attach a router. If yours isn't, that direction won't be practical.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I built a custom extension table for my saw fence (78" excallibur fence) and purchased a router base kit to place into the extension (not there yet).

As hllywd mentioned, unless you intend on doing A LOT of table routing (shaping) then this is not likely worth the time. Also there are some pretty nice full featured tables out there at a real decent price.

For the occasional workpiece the clamped straightedge is a great tool. 2-sided carpet tape is your friend! I acutally use this method more often than I do any other method. That includes straight cuts with the circular saw and jigsaw.


Bean

 

[MinibowMatt]

here is probably the best combo on the market (for the hobbiest).
Pretty cheap, and fully fucntional.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10097

 

[highquality]

do any of you guys make or setup your own router tables? What do you use to attach the router? i guess just screws huh?

 

[BeanAnimal]

Your best bet for a "DIY" router table is to use one of the available router plates. Take a look at woodcraft or rockler. You will cut a hole in your bench, saw extension or DIY table to accept the plate. If you get a standard size plate, then yiu can later upgrade it to a router lift.

Bean

 

[hllywd]

3 flathead machine screws hold the foot on my router, I had to remove that to mount the router to my table. Effectively the table becomes the new foot using the same 3 screws (countersunk) to attach the router to the table.

The benchtop steup from Rockler actually looks tough to beat.

Tim

 

[highquality]

Would you guys advise against variable speed or with?

 

[MinibowMatt]

no need...not for most hobbiests.

 

[Donw]

FWIW I have a Big TS Incra fence setup with 3 router tables 2 pc3hp and one little pc690 all with vari controls. The pc690 is still my go to router table.

Don

 

[shadofax69]

If you are looking to smooth the edge of the acrylic up I would suggest a jointer planner. They are great for polishing up the edge of a sheet so you can glue it.

 

[BeanAnimal]

IMHO they [jointers] do not spin fast enough and leave a wavy surface. The smaller diamter higher speed router does a great job. I have a 3" 4 cutter shaper head I tried to use... waste of time (and money). Works great for cutting molding... not so great for plastic.

 

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8285767#post8285767 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
IMHO they [jointers] do not spin fast enough and leave a wavy surface. The smaller diamter higher speed router does a great job. I have a 3" 4 cutter shaper head I tried to use... waste of time (and money). Works great for cutting molding... not so great for plastic.

I agree, I have a 16" powermatic with a 4.5" helical cutter head. The router does a better job.

Don

 

[Stidd]

Wow! Great advise and not something I would have personally figured. So instead of spending the money on a jointer, perhaps a good router table is in order...

Guy

 

[MinibowMatt]

I use an 8" rockwell 4 cutter jointer, and I agree it does leave a wavy edge (a bit) but with good gluing techniques, it doesnt matter IMO. If you let the weldon soften up the pieces to join really well, that wave smoothes out and makes a watertight joint 99% of the time..

 

[AlBunch]

Woodworking and aquariums - never been a better combination since peanut butter and chocolate...

Anyway, I'd stick with Porter Cable for the brand, I've got two and I use them frequently and I've never had a problem with them, they both have interchangeable collets so you can use 1/4" or 1/2" bits.

I'd stick with 1/2" bits though as they're far safer.

For smoothing edges, a 2 or 3 flute carbide bit with a ball bearing guide is definitely the way to go unless you want to set up a router table with a fence. Personally I prefer to move the router rather than trying to hold a sheet of anything flat and snug to a fence unless you want to mess with infeed and outfeed tables and some other form of support to hold the sheet up. Most router tables are pretty shallow from the front to the bit.

Also, consider getting the D-handle base or buying the kit that comes with the D-handle base. I feel far more in control with a D-handle than just those two little knobs.

 

[MinibowMatt]

lol.. its funny I soo much prefer the little knobs... I always found the D handle too bulky... But to each his own!