What's the basics to know with setting up a nano reef tank?
- Thread starter drewdavis
- Start date
First, a lot will depend on your budget. You can be successful in this hobby on a shoestring budget but, this hobby is still a little expensive. A lot of people gravitate towards automating with controllers which can be pretty pricy.
60 liters = 15 gallons and 120 liters = 31 gallons. IMO, 15g/60l I would consider a nano but, I would not consider the 31g/120l a nano. The livestock that can be kept in these tanks will vary greatly due to the size difference.
I've found that many new people tend to start off with smaller tanks, get hooked on the hobby and then eventually upgrade. So, if it were me, I'd go with the 120 liter tank to start. Plus, maintaining stable water parameters is much easier in a tank with a larger water volume.
That said, do you plan to do an all-in-one (AIO) tank or do you want a sump?
You'll want to get yourself a good set of test kits or checkers. At a minimum, you'll want Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and pH. If you're wanting to keep corals (especially stony corals) you'll also want Alkalinity, Calcium and Magnesium. Salifert and Red Sea test kits are good kits and Hanna Checkers are good as well.
Lighting can vary greatly in cost depending on what livestock you want to keep. For fish only, lighting can be very inexpensive, for easier to keep corals price will go up a bit and for more challenging corals (like SPS) lighting can get pretty pricy.
Many people start their tanks with dry rock and cycle it using bottled bacterial products. Some prefer to use all live rock. Others, like me, prefer to use a mix of dry rock (for the cost savings) and add a live rock to seed the dry rock. Depending on where you're located, you may or may not have access to good quality live rock.
The first step here, IMO, is determine your budget and then determine what size tank you're going to get. Add any questions you have here and we'll do our best to help guide you along.
A couple things to keep in mind. There is NO right way to build and maintain a reef tank, what may work great for one person could be a complete failure for another. Nothing good happens fast in this hobby, take your time, go slow and ask questions.
Good luck and I look forward to following your progress. I love following new tank builds and seeing them progress.
60 liters = 15 gallons and 120 liters = 31 gallons. IMO, 15g/60l I would consider a nano but, I would not consider the 31g/120l a nano. The livestock that can be kept in these tanks will vary greatly due to the size difference.
I've found that many new people tend to start off with smaller tanks, get hooked on the hobby and then eventually upgrade. So, if it were me, I'd go with the 120 liter tank to start. Plus, maintaining stable water parameters is much easier in a tank with a larger water volume.
That said, do you plan to do an all-in-one (AIO) tank or do you want a sump?
You'll want to get yourself a good set of test kits or checkers. At a minimum, you'll want Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and pH. If you're wanting to keep corals (especially stony corals) you'll also want Alkalinity, Calcium and Magnesium. Salifert and Red Sea test kits are good kits and Hanna Checkers are good as well.
Lighting can vary greatly in cost depending on what livestock you want to keep. For fish only, lighting can be very inexpensive, for easier to keep corals price will go up a bit and for more challenging corals (like SPS) lighting can get pretty pricy.
Many people start their tanks with dry rock and cycle it using bottled bacterial products. Some prefer to use all live rock. Others, like me, prefer to use a mix of dry rock (for the cost savings) and add a live rock to seed the dry rock. Depending on where you're located, you may or may not have access to good quality live rock.
The first step here, IMO, is determine your budget and then determine what size tank you're going to get. Add any questions you have here and we'll do our best to help guide you along.
A couple things to keep in mind. There is NO right way to build and maintain a reef tank, what may work great for one person could be a complete failure for another. Nothing good happens fast in this hobby, take your time, go slow and ask questions.
Good luck and I look forward to following your progress. I love following new tank builds and seeing them progress.
Vinny Kreyling
Premium Member
You have to remember --smaller tanks require MORE attention, without it failure is a distinct possibility.
NanoReefWanabe
Active member
Build the tank that fits your budget and space. Bigger is always better for many reasons, stability, access, design options/layout, ease of hiding equipment, inhabitant selection/health/compatibility, etc.
You need to decide if you want brackish or salt, they are different, the inhabitants are different, requirements are different... you won't keep many coral alive or happy in brackish water.
As mentioned, you have to decide if you want aio or a sump... sumps have many benefits, most notably increased water volume.
My current tank is a 35g cube (which I very much still consider a nano) and I have custom built a 25g sump which only ever holds 15g.
Tanks can be built up on many budgets...I did mine as tight as I could see fit, and still spent about 75$ a gallon... the only things I bought new were the return pump, heaters, sand, plumbing and the tank itself...everything else is either used or DIY. Used skimmer, used diy lights, used wave pumps, used Apex, used dry rock, reactors, dosing pump, etc...I custom made the overflow, sump, stand. There is only so much you can save in this hobby, and generally it is only on the stuff, that in the grand scheme, are the cheapest components.
Don't buy cheap components to save, as it will cost you more just to buy the proper ones down the road... that said you also don't need to buy 'top of the line' equipment either...you get what you pay for, sometimes that is just a name...I can't speak to the likes of Royal Exclusive, or Abyzz, Bubble King, their reputations precede them, though I can't justify the cost. I have had jebao wave pumps well outlast my vortech pumps and my maxspect gyre pumps. I will with absolute certainty say, buy good heaters. And yes, heaters. It is far better to heat your tank with two slightly undersized heaters than one big one... when heaters fail, they generally fail ON, with one heater of adequate size, this could mean your tank reaches 90+ degrees in a matter of hours. With two heaters, it is much less likely the tank will over heat. Having a temperature controller is an essential piece of equipment in either case.
I wouldn't cheap out on salt either, it really comes down to what you want to keep and how much you want to actively control your parameters...I hate doing water changes, even though they take a total of 7 minutes to change 10g. I just hate doing them...more then that I hated having to constantly check parameters, adjust this adjust that, blah blah blah...I found going with better salt and very simple dosing regimen of AFR (All For Reef) I am able to keep everything exactly where I like it which is a close to NSW as I can. I can do water changes every 3 months or so, and nothing ever changes, calcium rides smooth at 425, alk right at 9dkh, mag at 1300 etc.
Wait, what was the question again
You need to decide if you want brackish or salt, they are different, the inhabitants are different, requirements are different... you won't keep many coral alive or happy in brackish water.
As mentioned, you have to decide if you want aio or a sump... sumps have many benefits, most notably increased water volume.
My current tank is a 35g cube (which I very much still consider a nano) and I have custom built a 25g sump which only ever holds 15g.
Tanks can be built up on many budgets...I did mine as tight as I could see fit, and still spent about 75$ a gallon... the only things I bought new were the return pump, heaters, sand, plumbing and the tank itself...everything else is either used or DIY. Used skimmer, used diy lights, used wave pumps, used Apex, used dry rock, reactors, dosing pump, etc...I custom made the overflow, sump, stand. There is only so much you can save in this hobby, and generally it is only on the stuff, that in the grand scheme, are the cheapest components.
Don't buy cheap components to save, as it will cost you more just to buy the proper ones down the road... that said you also don't need to buy 'top of the line' equipment either...you get what you pay for, sometimes that is just a name...I can't speak to the likes of Royal Exclusive, or Abyzz, Bubble King, their reputations precede them, though I can't justify the cost. I have had jebao wave pumps well outlast my vortech pumps and my maxspect gyre pumps. I will with absolute certainty say, buy good heaters. And yes, heaters. It is far better to heat your tank with two slightly undersized heaters than one big one... when heaters fail, they generally fail ON, with one heater of adequate size, this could mean your tank reaches 90+ degrees in a matter of hours. With two heaters, it is much less likely the tank will over heat. Having a temperature controller is an essential piece of equipment in either case.
I wouldn't cheap out on salt either, it really comes down to what you want to keep and how much you want to actively control your parameters...I hate doing water changes, even though they take a total of 7 minutes to change 10g. I just hate doing them...more then that I hated having to constantly check parameters, adjust this adjust that, blah blah blah...I found going with better salt and very simple dosing regimen of AFR (All For Reef) I am able to keep everything exactly where I like it which is a close to NSW as I can. I can do water changes every 3 months or so, and nothing ever changes, calcium rides smooth at 425, alk right at 9dkh, mag at 1300 etc.
Wait, what was the question again
wvned
Well-known member
The size of your tank depends on what you want to put in it. Fish need bigger tanks. The quantity of water in the tank need to be sufficient that the animals survive your maintenance interval. You could keep 2-3 fish in a 60l or 4-6 in a 120l if you maintained it every 3-4 days. If you go 7 days cut those numbers in half. Those tiny fish you get grow. You need to plan on them reaching at least half the max size listed. Its a shame when fish outgrow their tanks. Yes you can pass them along to someone else but you become attached to them and put a lot of effort into keeping them alive. A lot to lose.
Don't size your tank based on economics or available room and then put things you always wanted to have in it that aren't suitable for it.
Gee Ned my friend has 2 clowns and 3 blah blah blahs in a tiny tank. Okay, how long, what is their filtration and maintenance schedule.
For Nano reef tanks go with 100% live rock. Get live sand but not the fine stuff that will blow around.
Get a RODI or use distilled water and make new salt water yourself. Dont buy water.
Get a good heater that is adjustable. I use Eheim Jeager submersible placed sideways in the bottom once it is adjusted.
Do testing every day. Use good test kits. I recommend Salifert.
Have an adequate light. Have enough flow. I used MP10s on my tanks up to 30 gallons. They are expensive now but there is something else that probably will work out there. I also used Maxijets with random flow directors. Not sure those are made anymore.
Put it together this way and let it settle. Get the heater adjusted and you can put animals in it after a few days and skip all the cycling stuff.
Don't size your tank based on economics or available room and then put things you always wanted to have in it that aren't suitable for it.
Gee Ned my friend has 2 clowns and 3 blah blah blahs in a tiny tank. Okay, how long, what is their filtration and maintenance schedule.
For Nano reef tanks go with 100% live rock. Get live sand but not the fine stuff that will blow around.
Get a RODI or use distilled water and make new salt water yourself. Dont buy water.
Get a good heater that is adjustable. I use Eheim Jeager submersible placed sideways in the bottom once it is adjusted.
Do testing every day. Use good test kits. I recommend Salifert.
Have an adequate light. Have enough flow. I used MP10s on my tanks up to 30 gallons. They are expensive now but there is something else that probably will work out there. I also used Maxijets with random flow directors. Not sure those are made anymore.
Put it together this way and let it settle. Get the heater adjusted and you can put animals in it after a few days and skip all the cycling stuff.
