when it dies...

L

larkinvalley

New member
If your octo dies each half a year - what should an ideal octo tank be
like?

I mean, I guess when it dies, it always decays to some degree before you find it, so maybe the entire system needs a restart, no?
 
Often when they die, they come out of their lair. Or if we are talking natural senescence, you can tell from a lost of color and muscles in the skin that they are on there way out. I usually help them on their way the last day or two. This is not like having a "sick" octopus that you hope will recover. With senescence there is no "recovery".

Roy
 
I agree, most often the kindest solution is to put the specimen down befroe it gets too bad...in the wild they will often roam aimlessly after hatching of the eggs, making them easy prey, though in aquariums they live past this point, and decay to an unnatural degree.
 
If it dies in the burrow it will start to decompose, in some cases they may release all of their ink when they die, and in smaller systems you may walk in the room to find a black cloudy tank. The tank itself should not crash and die...so long as you find it, remove the dead octo, and perform a few large water changes quickly enough. If you have corals in with your octo you may see some extreme stress or die off though. I've seen octos die and get pretty bad though, where small inverts such as hermit crabs and snails (the ones that hadn't been eaten) survived. Anenomes usually will survive as well.

As for how to euthanize an octopus, this has been a subject of great debate...there are several methods (microwave not being one of them), freezing is the preferred method for large specimens, and is generally considered humane. Ethanol is the best method for small octos, start at a 1% solution to sedate the specimen, then add more ethanol to get to 5% where the anesthesia becomes terminal in a few minutes (use 2% and increase to 10% if you use a distilled spirit such as vodka). The fish anesthetics MS-222 (tricane methanesufonate) and quinaldine are generally considered inhumane, as they cause quite a bit of distress. There is a paper by Dr. Roland Anderson of the Seattle Aquarium which sums up all of these methods quite concisely:

http://www.colszoo.org/internal/drum_croaker/pdf/1996.pdf

There are a few other options, but they are a bit more complex; a colleauge and I have a paper coming out soon in that same journal on the use of benzocaine (the stuff the dentist swabs on your gums before injecting novacaine), but for the home aquarist freezing or ethanol are the quickest, easiest, most humane options.
 
my first fish that I euthanized was a ich infested pacu when I was young, I put it in a plastic bag and gave him a big wack on the steps outside, instant death and much more humane than the ich. my friend is a trapper and sells fur of the animals he catches and he used a needle to inject acetone, they die quickly and when he told me I pictured a slower painful death and told him he was sick in the head and a few days later he showed me a video of him injecting a skunk with the needle on the end of a 5' long pole, he walked up slowly and injected the skunk in the neck slowly, it died in a few seconds and didnt even try to spray him, not sure its for everyone but, acetone is paint thinner and not sure whare the needles come from, maybe a diabetic.
 
yeah flushing live fish is like putting fish in a FW dip... and forgetting about it. minus the turbulence and the rollercoaster ride down the pipes. quite inhumane. and if the fish is large, then yeah there's a good chance of a clogged drain.

the whacking or acetone method actually could be best if you could stomach it. either that or ethanol or freeze.
 
A few drops of Eugenol in a little water works great to put a fish under for examination or treatment. Higher doses or leaving the fish in the solution for an extended period of time will result in a quick and painless death. You can buy this toothache product for a few bucks in any drug store and in the heath care aisle of most grocery stores.
 
Take it to your local sushi bar & honor the lil guy by rights of the food chain. Just call it "the last enjoyment."

I know, I'm not right. Bad Mike, Bad Mike!
 
Early in my hobby career I had and angel die so I quickly wisked him off to the throne for a quick disposal only to have it get stuck somewhere and plug it up. It was a slow drain type of plug and it took about two weeks for it to clear itself out, couldn't get it with a plumbing snake.
 
Yeah, well I've seen contamination from home aquaria first hand. Not all sewage is well treated, even in the US.
 
Such as an outbreak of tropical anchorworms in sculpin in anchorage alaska one summer (they didn't make the winter).

I really find it astonishing that you are resiting me on this, it seems to be a pretty straight forward thing. Moving deseases around=bad. HR and YBN, do you really think that our sewar systems are 100% effective 100% of the time? I think you would have to be crazy to think that, and if you don't then you would have to be crazy to do anything that would risk potentially billions of dollars of environmental dammage just for the convinance of flushing a fish rather than wraping it up and thoring it in the trash (because believe it or not, land fill run off is treated more seriously than raw sewage). If you have a septic system and don't live in porous soil or especially near to a body of water I suppose it would be safe to flush a fish, but city sewar systems are not set up to sterilize water.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Octo Various 10 Pump
Replies
1
Views
474
Tanksanyway
T
Perth_reefer
Temperature fluctuation for SPS
Replies
3
Views
96
Reefing102
Reefing102
hrdneglcry
Why can't I grow coral?
Replies
3
Views
639
Reefing102
Reefing102
Timfish
Surprise, Surprise, Surprise!
Replies
5
Views
142
Uncle99
Uncle99
H
25 year old yellow tang dying :(
Replies
10
Views
1K
sallypur
S
Back
Top