Where is all my water going?

because foam crushes, and as such the edges of the tank where the weight is transferred can cut in to the foam, causing it to sink, and place uneven pressure on the glass bottom, which could cause it to shatter.

Ok, but this topic seems to be a point of contention on this forum like many others. Some say yes, some say no. Some people have had it break, others have had it last for a decade.

So,I'm going to leave it as is, considering the sump is now full of water, and I'm in cycling my tank. Maybe once the cycle is over, i'll consider removing the foam.
 
Ok, but this topic seems to be a point of contention on this forum like many others. Some say yes, some say no. Some people have had it break, others have had it last for a decade.

So,I'm going to leave it as is, considering the sump is now full of water, and I'm in cycling my tank. Maybe once the cycle is over, i'll consider removing the foam.

so not to be obstinate, but let's say for the sake of argument that it increases the chances of a catastrophic failure by 10%, and yes of course that is a WAG just for the purposes of this discussion.

what benefit is it getting you to offset that potential drawback?

it wouldn't take long to drain the sump, lift it half an inch, remove the foam, and the fill it. maybe 15 minutes tops?

it's not my sump, so ultimately it's not my concern, i'm just curious what benefit(s) you feel you are getting from it?
 
Don't you have to buy a pump as well?

You do, a $15 Rio will work fine. And you can find the JBJ for under $70 on Ebay.

I have both. I have never once had an issue with the JBJ but have continuous problems with the Tunze. The eye develops a layer on it and fails to read low water resulting in no call to the ATO pump (low water). I clean it, it works again for another couple of months and needs to be cleaned again. It also needs very calm water to work when I first got it this was a big problem I had to re-think where I put it so the water was calm enough for it.

Just one example - http://www.ebay.com/itm/JBJ-AUTO-TO...451006?hash=item1c36bd29fe:g:O2MAAOSwq7JT9PI~

FYI: I don't believe the foam adds any danger at all to your setup.
 
I have a 40 gallon breeder in my living room, with a 65 gallon sump below it in my basement. This is my sump and ATO in the basement. You can see I just use a float valve (in the right, return chamber of the sump). I have a line from my RO/DI unit (by my utility sink about 6 feet away) running to my ATO reservoir. Once a week I fill the reservoir.

sump2.jpg
 
I have a 40 gallon breeder in my living room, with a 65 gallon sump below it in my basement. This is my sump and ATO in the basement. You can see I just use a float valve (in the right, return chamber of the sump). I have a line from my RO/DI unit (by my utility sink about 6 feet away) running to my ATO reservoir. Once a week I fill the reservoir.

sump2.jpg

So the float valve just shuts off the water supply from the ATO bucket? I can't actually see the valve in the image you attached, but I'll take your word for it.

Edit:

Nevermind I see it. What size tubing is that 1/2"?
 
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So the float valve just shuts off the water supply from the ATO bucket? I can't actually see the valve in the image you attached, but I'll take your word for it.

Yes. Here's a couple of pics installing it. It's an Eshopps float valve. When the water level drops below my preset level in the return chamber of my sump, the float drops with it, opening the valve, allowing the water to fill the chamber back up until the float valve closes the line. All gravity fed and all manual. I've been using it for over a year and it couldn't be simpler.

ato.jpg


atoconnect.jpg
 
You have plenty of space. You can definitely do a gravity fed Ato for a few dollars (under $15) for sure. I bought a JbJ locally from a local reefer for $25 for my qt tank. Other than that though, I use my apex. I personally wouldn't run a tank without a tank controller again. One of my first tanks, my heater failed and cooked all my stuff.
 
You have plenty of space. You can definitely do a gravity fed Ato for a few dollars (under $15) for sure. I bought a JbJ locally from a local reefer for $25 for my qt tank. Other than that though, I use my apex. I personally wouldn't run a tank without a tank controller again. One of my first tanks, my heater failed and cooked all my stuff.


Honestly, I was looking last night, but I can't figure out the best place to put a 5 gallon bucket above my tank. I guess it appears that I have more room than I actually do. I can't to the left of the tank, because there is a door there that leads to a bathroom, and the tank is flush to a wall on the right. I love the idea of saving money, and a gravity fed ATO seems like a perfect place to do so, but I'll have to get fancy with where I put it if that is the route I'm going to go.
 
Yes. Here's a couple of pics installing it. It's an Eshopps float valve. When the water level drops below my preset level in the return chamber of my sump, the float drops with it, opening the valve, allowing the water to fill the chamber back up until the float valve closes the line. All gravity fed and all manual. I've been using it for over a year and it couldn't be simpler.

ato.jpg


atoconnect.jpg
I looked up that eshopps kit you have, but it comes with a 1/4" line. In the images of yours, you are using a larger size. Did you have to add an adapter or does the kit allow for the flexibility?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
I looked up that eshopps kit you have, but it comes with a 1/4" line. In the images of yours, you are using a larger size. Did you have to add an adapter or does the kit allow for the flexibility?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I copied this (below) from my build thread...

I figured out how to connect my 1/4" float valve inlet to my ATO reservoir 1/2" valve outlet.

The float itself is pretty good. The acrylic mounting bracket is great. From the reviews some have said it is flimsy and leaks and I can only assume they didn't hook it up right (or maybe theirs actually was faulty).

One thing I did not like about it was the supplied 1/4" tubing which is very stiff and fits into a very wiggly connector. But that really wasn't an issue for me anyway as I needed a different connection to my ATO reservoir's 1/2" outlet.

So, resourceful person that I am, I found a mod for it. The top part of the float's connection screws into the float. The hole for the supplied tubing is 1/4" but the outside of the connector is 1/2" and perfectly round and about 3/8" long. So rather than put tubing inside the connector (as it is supposed to be), I found some 1/2" (I.D.) very flexible tubing that I put over this connector. You can see it in the photo below.

1. The water inlet connector that gets screwed into the float valve base.
2. The new soft flexible 1/2" (I.D.) tubing over the connector.
3. A nylon squeeze clamp over the tubing to secure it.

tube.jpg


Then with just a little pipe tape over the connector threads, the connector is then screwed back into the float valve base and can now easily be connected to 1/2" PVC pipe (or larger with an appropriate fitting).

I tested it and it performs flawlessly. No leaks and the float works as intended in a test outside of my sump.

floatmod.jpg
 
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