Where should I start

Haha oh yea. Basically you just want to find a DI unit with quick connect fittings the same size as the ones on your unit now. You mount it to the wall right beside yours and run a short piece of tubing between them.

How's that:)
 
Here is my current RO unit. I just sold some speakers today and have $200 to blow on aquarium stuff. So, should I replace membrane, filter, and purchase a new DI, or should I just buy a new system from water, Ice, Fire.

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50/90

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-Dino
RC MOD
 
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1. Add DI to your existing RO system as suggested. Any cartridge for a 10" filter will work, you can probably pick one up at Home Depot. You'll have to get the DI resins elsewhere, though. I replace the DI resins when TDS hits 1.
2. Replace your RO membrane. Dow Filmtec 75 gpd has the highest rejection rate of the ones available and won't deplete your DI resins as quickly. Replace every 2 years unless your TDS in is high.
3. Buy a better skimmer. I had a very nice one that would have worked but unfortunately it now lives in Alabama.
4. Add more flow. You've got about 25X which is OK for corals other than SPS but SPS like more.
5. Talk to your father, he knows most of this and had a great tank!

Dave
 
Your RO unit should already handle DI looking at it. First chamber, particulate filter (usually spun poly and white in color). Second chamber, carbon filter. Next is the RO membrane (on top). After that, back into the lower third chamber and through the DI beads. You may have to replumb it (can't see all the lines in the pic) but you shouldn't have to buy a new chamber.
 
Finally, here is the closet that is directly behind the tank. I want to move everything from under the tank in there. I will punch a hole in the wall and plumb in a larger custom sump. I am also going to take out that carpet and aquarium proof the room.

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Your RO unit should already handle DI looking at it. First chamber, particulate filter (usually spun poly and white in color). Second chamber, carbon filter. Next is the RO membrane (on top). After that, back into the lower third chamber and through the DI beads. You may have to replumb it (can't see all the lines in the pic) but you shouldn't have to buy a new chamber.

Actually, the water hits the sediment filter; then the first carbon filter (it is linked between the first and second chamber behind the unit). Then the middle chamber is linked to the far right chamber that is labeled "activated carbon." From the third chamber it goes up to the top RO unit, and out from there and into the blue barrel. Unless I'm missing something, I don't think that the unit is configured for DI.

So, should my course of action be:

1) get tds down to 0.
2) up the water flow.
3) get a better skimmer.

Where should automating Ca and Mg and Alk fall. I'm also wanting to put that closet into play as well.
 
Ok this is what I'm going with from Air, Water, and Ice:

Membrane:

FilmTec Membrane 75 GPD
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/TW301812-75/FilmTec-Membrane-75-GPD.html
$39.95

For DI
Vertical Color Changing DI Adder Kit It is an add on kit with a clear housing.
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/ADDVERTDI/Vertical-Color-Changing-DI-Adder-Kit.html
$44.95

For Sediment:
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/PP10/Sediment-Filter-10.html
$2.95

For Carbon Blockers:
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/GEM10/Gem-Carbon-Block-Filter.html
5 micron - 9.95
1 micron - 9.95

I will put these in order from largest to smallest in order to prevent premature filter blockage.
Hopefully, this will fix my high TDS. If I'm missing something please let me know. I'm not placing the order until tomorrow.
 
You can reconfigure it to support DI. You don't really need 2 carbon stages. It would just need to be replumbed a bit. Would save you $45 plus the cost of a carbon block. I'd go 1 micron/1micron on the sediment and carbon. You can order off ebay and probably save 20% on the membranes and filters. Doesn't look to me like enough corals yet to worry about a CaRX or dosing pumps. Good luck.
 
There is no reason to completly replace your system, you only need to replace all of the filters and add the DI module. If need you can purchase a new frame to hold the additional canister, or you can buy some aluminum angle from Lowes and just add it to what you have. That is what I did.
The DI module will come with instructions on how to plumb the tubing from what you have.
Air Water and Ice and The Filter Guys are both sponsors here and offer good quality parts. I have bought from both.
 
I ordered RO and DI membranes, a sediment filter, and a carbon block filter today. I went with cee's advice and am going to use one of the existing carbon modules as the DI module. After looking at the system closer, it will be as easy as changing the tubes around. Thanks, you guys have saved me some cash. Hopefully, this will get my TDS in order, and I will be able to spend the extra money on other needed items.
 
Proud of you guys for giving him good advice. I loves me some old school ETRC people.

Dave, Art is wicked busy with work (he's got a job and runs a bookstore now too so he's swamped) but I agree...Art absolutely knows ALL this stuff.
 
Mel, you are right Dad is a wiz at the reef game. However, because he is always so busy he does not always have the time to help me out. I work 9-6 weekdays and he works weekends so our schedules do not work out. Also, I figure that it couldn't hurt me to reach out to fellow reef enthusiasts in the community. A lot of my dad's success can be attributed to all of you guys. I remember some of his starter tanks back in the early nineties. Lets just say he had his challenges. Oh, if you guys don't have anything to do on Saturday's you should go check out his RC race car track. Its a blast!
 
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