Where to buy AC solenoids?

Bent

I got nothin'
Im getting tired of turning ball valves. I want to set something up here.

I have a ball valve that drains my RO reservoir to my salt mix container. I also have a ball valve from my salt mix container to my sump. So when I need to move fresh salt water to the sump I turn the valve and flip on the pump. When I want to put fresh water into my salt mix container I simply turn the valve and gravity feed it to the container. Few problems here that I think a couple solenoids will fix.

1: I worry that I will turn the sump fill pump off, and forget to turn the ball valve. There is a slight siphon effect on that line and if I don't turn the valve when I get done filling the sump, it will keep sucking water into the sump.

2: I worry that I will forget to turn the gravity valve off from the RO container and flood the salt mix container.

I want some 1" normally closed AC solenoids. This will let me address these two issues with some float switches:

1: connecting the sump fill solenoid to a float switch at the top of the sump will turn the solenoid off and close it should the sump fill up should I fail to turn it off manually.

2: A float switch on the salt mix container will control the solenoid and keep my salt mix bucket full of R/O water and keep the container from overflowing should I stupidly forget to turn it off manually.

Any ideas where to buy some? Been surfing amazon for a while now and googling with no luck.
 
I saw those, they def aren't cheap at all and its way overkill for what I need. I don't need a pressure rated motor with the torque of the gods on it. I can find brass or copper ones that are around fitty bucks, but I cant find a low pressure PVC AC solenoid to save my life.

Edit:
actually autotopoff has a 3/4" one with no plug or fittings for 55 bucks. I might just have to get it and reduce down or see if they have a 1 incher.
 
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Solenoids for freshwater are easy. I use AC Sonoids from STC Valve. I've been using the same ones for over 5 years now. They have both normally open and normally closed. Saltwater is a different story and there isn't a cheap solenoid out there that I am aware of that will hold up in saltwater regardless of the stainless steel or not. Those cheap ones from Autotopoff will corrode in salt water as they use cheap stainless. Also the plungers will freeze up in saltwater after a short time. For saltwater, I would look at an actuated ball valve such as those from Hayward. They are much better suited for saltwater and don't suffer the same fate as typical solenoids do when used in saltwater. They definitely aren't cheap though and I am sure the price will be very discouraging.
http://www.haywardflowcontrol.com/shop/en/flow-control/automated-valves
 
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Sleif,
Thanks brah, that's somehow what I was afraid of. Looks like I'll be doing this manually.
 
A high torque servo or stepper could control a ball valve, since this is the DIY section.

I assume diaphragm valves are out of the question due to the flow requirements.
 
Salt. A few months. I will pull one of them apart in a month to see how it looks.

My concern will be rust and or corrosion. Most stainless will eventually rust and or corrode in salt water. There are certain grades of stainless that won't but those are much more responsive grades. This is one of the reasons why higher end aquarium part manufaturers prefer titanium over stainless in things like pumps and or even hardware for the pumps and skimmers. Given the cost of that solenoid, I would be very leary. At least in any critical application.
 
Definitely a valid concern. I realize that without information on what grade SS it is, that it could rust sooner than i would want. All SS will rust. I'm just hoping that these valves will last a while and make them worth having them. I'm running 3 of them. One of which is under pressure from my main water supply. I have a manual float valve behind it just in case. The other 2 are less concerning, because they only touch water when my water changes happen. Your mileage may vary.

My concern will be rust and or corrosion. Most stainless will eventually rust and or corrode in salt water. There are certain grades of stainless that won't but those are much more responsive grades. This is one of the reasons why higher end aquarium part manufaturers prefer titanium over stainless in things like pumps and or even hardware for the pumps and skimmers. Given the cost of that solenoid, I would be very leary. At least in any critical application.
 
Its a diaphragm valve, so probably won't work well (if at all) for low pressure gravity fed applications.
 
I forgot that the OP is running everything gravity fed. In my application, i pump assist all water flow, so that would likely be moot. Something to be considered at least.

I'm a big fan of actuated ball valve's vs solenoids. The flow rate is superior and you can use in gravity fed applications. I just wish i could find one that isnt crazy expensive with a NSF certification!

Its a diaphragm valve, so probably won't work well (if at all) for low pressure gravity fed applications.
 
I forgot that the OP is running everything gravity fed. In my application, i pump assist all water flow, so that would likely be moot. Something to be considered at least.



I'm a big fan of actuated ball valve's vs solenoids. The flow rate is superior and you can use in gravity fed applications. I just wish i could find one that isnt crazy expensive with a NSF certification!



Agree, actuated ball valves are very pricey. However, knowing the torque required to reliably operate large ball valves means that the mechanics aren't cheap either.
 
Be careful guys! Solenoids for contact with saltwater and RO and RODI water are not your run of the mill solenoids. ALL wetted parts must be compatible with the fluid. Just because a solenoid has a poly BODY, don't assume it is safe. There is a well known vendor selling just such valves on RC claiming they are safe for DI water contact. Even a little bit of homework shows otherwise.

Russ
 
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