White Dinoflagellates
- Thread starter austin93
- Start date
HighlandReefer
Team RC
Austin,
Sorry I did not get back to you right away. Been on vacation.
The sample you sent me is a cyanobacteria (IMO). This is a look at it at 1600X:
Sorry I did not get back to you right away. Been on vacation.
The sample you sent me is a cyanobacteria (IMO). This is a look at it at 1600X:
HighlandReefer
Team RC
Thanks Tom.
The microscope certainly helps in IDing these type pests. That said, using methods for controlling cyano should help in controlling this pest. If everything else fails, then using an Erythromycin product may help also.
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This is a quote by Boomer from a prior thread about fighting cyano:
"Some added thoughts from over the years from many
The only known fish to eat Cyano is Amblygobius stethophthalmus and it needs to be the real one not its close relative that is often Mis-ID with it.
A 2- 3 month scheme
1. Water changes. 25% weekly.
2. Bare bottom refugium only for cheato nutrient export and not for critters.
3. Siphon, sump, refugium, etc. every week during water change and clean all filter you have.
4. Blow off all the Cyano and settled stuff you can so it can be siphoned off.
5. Clean out skimmer and cup every week.
6. Carbon, 1 cup per 50 gallons / 2 wks. Try to use ROX
7. GFO -HC , change every month.
8. Purigen, every month
9. Soak frozen food in RO/DI and discard water before use. This is especially true for brine shrimp. Matter of fact I use to pour off the water, and then fill it back up, to repeat it until there was only whole brine shrimp in the container.
10. Read what is in the food and look for things low in phosphates.
11. Keep the pH in the very low 8's or very high 7's, as Cyano will out compete other algae's in higher pH water.
12. The # 1 limiting nutrient for Cyano is N, not P based on studies in various microbiology texts.
13. During these water changes and blowing stuff off and siphoning it up run a Diatom filter with a second cake of PAC (Powdered activated carbon)."
14. Increase water flow where Cyano are growing, as they do not like high currents.
15. Shutting of all lights, almost total darkness for 48 hr. every few days.
Last resort is Chemi-Clean by Boyd (Erythromyacin based product).
99.9 % of the time if nothing eats it and it looks like yours it is Cyano.
The microscope certainly helps in IDing these type pests. That said, using methods for controlling cyano should help in controlling this pest. If everything else fails, then using an Erythromycin product may help also.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is a quote by Boomer from a prior thread about fighting cyano:
"Some added thoughts from over the years from many
The only known fish to eat Cyano is Amblygobius stethophthalmus and it needs to be the real one not its close relative that is often Mis-ID with it.
A 2- 3 month scheme
1. Water changes. 25% weekly.
2. Bare bottom refugium only for cheato nutrient export and not for critters.
3. Siphon, sump, refugium, etc. every week during water change and clean all filter you have.
4. Blow off all the Cyano and settled stuff you can so it can be siphoned off.
5. Clean out skimmer and cup every week.
6. Carbon, 1 cup per 50 gallons / 2 wks. Try to use ROX
7. GFO -HC , change every month.
8. Purigen, every month
9. Soak frozen food in RO/DI and discard water before use. This is especially true for brine shrimp. Matter of fact I use to pour off the water, and then fill it back up, to repeat it until there was only whole brine shrimp in the container.
10. Read what is in the food and look for things low in phosphates.
11. Keep the pH in the very low 8's or very high 7's, as Cyano will out compete other algae's in higher pH water.
12. The # 1 limiting nutrient for Cyano is N, not P based on studies in various microbiology texts.
13. During these water changes and blowing stuff off and siphoning it up run a Diatom filter with a second cake of PAC (Powdered activated carbon)."
14. Increase water flow where Cyano are growing, as they do not like high currents.
15. Shutting of all lights, almost total darkness for 48 hr. every few days.
Last resort is Chemi-Clean by Boyd (Erythromyacin based product).
99.9 % of the time if nothing eats it and it looks like yours it is Cyano.
HighlandReefer
Team RC
Yeah! Great link. Thanks much Boomer. 
Good job Highland and Boomer.
I think the solution of the problem in this case is not to remove more nutrients...
This issue (Austin´s case) is dued by too low nutrients...
I think the problem solution is:
- remove less nutrients or/and
-add more nutrients or/and
-adjust a good ratio N/P
I think the solution of the problem in this case is not to remove more nutrients...
This issue (Austin´s case) is dued by too low nutrients...
I think the problem solution is:
- remove less nutrients or/and
-add more nutrients or/and
-adjust a good ratio N/P
austin93
Don't Panic!
Thanks for checking the sample for me! I am glad I got a second opinion about what it was. I am curious about why my tang likes to pick at it. Just for an update, I have made a major increase in my feeding and have stopped all carbon dosing for the time being (maybe forever). I have not seen any improvement at all even after adding more fish to the system. Needless to say, I am not impressed with the way the tank is progressing right now. Lots of ups and downs. I am now thinking that I should add a refugium to the system. If I could just get some nice colors and no fuzzy crap on the glass I could easily talk the wife into a bigger tank (180ish). Again, thank you very much for taking the time to check my sample, this type of behavior is what makes reefcentral my favorite board. Thanks 
.
.
HighlandReefer
Team RC
Your Welcome.
SpringFever
New member
austin: how did this turn out for you? I am not dosing a carbon source but am experiencing the same 'fuzz', whatever it is.
