Who is using UV or Ozone?
- Thread starter k9asia
- Start date
reefkeeper135
Premium Member
Running UV on my 240 has greatly improved water clarity and helps with the film on the front glass.
Ozone.....
Ozone.....
I'm using a Red Sea deluxe 100 in my 120 tech tank, keep it set about 350, have had no prob's I think it's much nicer than a uv unit, I've used them both...and as far as ozone poisoning ?..lol I think with proper monitoring and common sense you'll live to enjoy a beautiful tank...don"t believe the HYPE....;-)
Ozone.....
I'm using a Red Sea deluxe 100 in my 120 tech tank, keep it set about 350, have had no prob's I think it's much nicer than a uv unit, I've used them both...and as far as ozone poisoning ?..lol I think with proper monitoring and common sense you'll live to enjoy a beautiful tank...don"t believe the HYPE....;-)
I've used both for some time now without any problems. With regard to UV, good information has always been rather spotty, imo. I think of it as a preventative more than a cure; best to get it up and going BEFORE you have an 'ich' problem. It also is not a substitute for good husbandry or a proper regimen of QT. My recommendation would be to purchase a well built unit rated for a tank sized a little larger than the one you have. I've found that some companies are a little optimistic in their specs and, in this case, it's better to have a little too much than too little. At least you can dial it down. Anyway, use a properly rated pump and, above all, keep the bulbs clean. As far as Ozone is concerned, I believe it DOES make your skimmer perform more efficiently and thereby benefits the tank as a whole, but to be on the safe side, I would never think of using one without a controller. I like to keep mine set at 350. Also, as Ozone will eventually affect many of the plastic and rubber parts involved in its application, make sure you replace the 'stock' tubing, etc. with parts specifically made for use with it.
Originally posted by woodwonders
On the subject of UV, does anyone know a good recommendation for wattage/ gallon tank size, or flow rate through the light? I've also been thinking about adding one but am not sure what to get.
Very good questions. The answers are not all that clear.
As you probably know the sterilizer only kills what passes through, so the more exchange (eg 5x tank volume) the more waterborn organisms will be exposed.
The other side of that is that the larger the organism the more radiation needed for lethality. The amount of radiation the organism recives depends on the size of the bulb and the amount of time it is exposed(dwell time or flow rate)For example, the manufacturer's perfomance chart for the Coral Life turbo twist 18w claims effectiveness against parasites at 110gph,algae at 240 gph and bacteria at 500gph.So if you ran that unit on a 100gal tank at about 100gph it would be lethal to parsites passing through it per the manufacturer but you would only turn your tank over 1x per hour. Mainstream thinking is about 3x to 5x but I don't think there is any definative information available.
Bear in mind that the parasite cryptocaryon irritans(ich) is a relatively large piece of microfualna and to be lethal significant expsoure would be required,.Even then the sterilizer will only kill those that pass trough it and not those in the substrate or in/ on the fish.
The parasite amyloodinium(velvet/the more lethal form of ich) is a dinoflagellate algae requiring less exposure.
Many good bacteria and bad bacteria live on substrate or rock or the organisms(fish,corals,etc.) themselvews and will not be exposed.
Obviously, bigger is better but in any case the sterilizer should not be viewed as a cure for diseases or an alternative to quarantine,
Personally, I run 96w(3 sterilizers) on 500g with a combined flow rate of about 1000gph. It cuts down on glass cleaning and helps to keep clear water. I like to think it helps against parasites and other pathenopgens but have no scientific information to support that notion other than manufacturers claims which even if true may be negated if surving organisms can adjust to repopulate as fast as they are killed as some have argued.
__________________
Tom
Hobby Experience: 40yrs+overall,6yrs reef,9tanks,largest is a 120g reef
Current Tanks: 500g system consisting of a 120g reef sps mixed,a 90g lps,a 90g sps dominant,a 30g breeder lps frag tank ,a 40g sps frag tank,a 20g refugium,a29g refugium, an 88gal sump with live rock and rubble. Calcium reactor and kalk doser , mh pc and vho
Intere
From another post of mine FYI
On the subject of UV, does anyone know a good recommendation for wattage/ gallon tank size, or flow rate through the light? I've also been thinking about adding one but am not sure what to get.
Very good questions. The answers are not all that clear.
As you probably know the sterilizer only kills what passes through, so the more exchange (eg 5x tank volume) the more waterborn organisms will be exposed.
The other side of that is that the larger the organism the more radiation needed for lethality. The amount of radiation the organism recives depends on the size of the bulb and the amount of time it is exposed(dwell time or flow rate)For example, the manufacturer's perfomance chart for the Coral Life turbo twist 18w claims effectiveness against parasites at 110gph,algae at 240 gph and bacteria at 500gph.So if you ran that unit on a 100gal tank at about 100gph it would be lethal to parsites passing through it per the manufacturer but you would only turn your tank over 1x per hour. Mainstream thinking is about 3x to 5x but I don't think there is any definative information available.
Bear in mind that the parasite cryptocaryon irritans(ich) is a relatively large piece of microfualna and to be lethal significant expsoure would be required,.Even then the sterilizer will only kill those that pass trough it and not those in the substrate or in/ on the fish.
The parasite amyloodinium(velvet/the more lethal form of ich) is a dinoflagellate algae requiring less exposure.
Many good bacteria and bad bacteria live on substrate or rock or the organisms(fish,corals,etc.) themselvews and will not be exposed.
Obviously, bigger is better but in any case the sterilizer should not be viewed as a cure for diseases or an alternative to quarantine,
Personally, I run 96w(3 sterilizers) on 500g with a combined flow rate of about 1000gph. It cuts down on glass cleaning and helps to keep clear water. I like to think it helps against parasites and other pathenopgens but have no scientific information to support that notion other than manufacturers claims which even if true may be negated if surving organisms can adjust to repopulate as fast as they are killed as some have argued.
__________________
Tom
Hobby Experience: 40yrs+overall,6yrs reef,9tanks,largest is a 120g reef
Current Tanks: 500g system consisting of a 120g reef sps mixed,a 90g lps,a 90g sps dominant,a 30g breeder lps frag tank ,a 40g sps frag tank,a 20g refugium,a29g refugium, an 88gal sump with live rock and rubble. Calcium reactor and kalk doser , mh pc and vho
Intere
From another post of mine FYI
