Who uses ozone?

victor90 said:
one person said that you should air out the room well when using ozone. Is this a must evn if i just use 10-=20 mg /hr. Also how do you guys feel its effectiveness against ich.
Thank you

I doubt that it is necessary to air the room out...

it is reccomended that if you are dosing ozone through your skimmer (beckett) that when the air exits the collection device it goes through some carbon because it will break up the ozone back to oxygen.. and then there is nothing to worrie about... and the carbon only needs to be changes probably once every 2 or 3 months if even that often
 
victor90 said:
one person said that you should air out the room well when using ozone. Is this a must evn if i just use 10-=20 mg /hr. Also how do you guys feel its effectiveness against ich.
Thank you

I believe I had a Sanders 10-20mg/hr unit. I passively ventilated the room by cracking a window and leaving the door open. Some people are just prone to headaches and this is just one more trigger to avoid. Most people would probably never even detect ozone levels in the air. Definitely not a health risk at the levels we are speaking of. Just wanted to give people a heads up and something to keep in mind if they have a reaction.
 
An idea for those concerned about health risks while running ozone;

I set the my aquacontroller to run the ozone only late at night. It turns off a couple of hours before I get up in the morning. Seems to work very well. I get all the desired effects of O3 in the tank. My concern was based on smelling ozone near the tank (in the living room).
 
if you want to be sure that no ozone is getting into your room simply bubble the exiting gas through a solution of potassium iodide... and the chemical will break up the ozone and there you go... this works wonderfully.... this is what we do in the lab... and we use a lot stronger generator that 100mg/h
 
if you want to be sure that no ozone is getting into your room simply bubble the exiting gas through a solution of potassium iodide...


Ahhh, "simply"?

How does the output of the ozonizer feed into the skimmer. I am having a hard time imagining that something that is bubbling soo slowly, will be capable of feeding a large skimmer that is sucking a large amount of air. What am I missing?
 
i have a precision marine bullet 1 skimmer... and where the becket injector housing is there is a small hosebarb where you can connect the tubing from the ozonizer... the majority of the air will come from the other valve... but it will also suck in the ozone... lemme try and find a pic! (see the red thing)

db_Bullet-14.jpg
 
just hook it straight to the venturi air port. The down side is that it can cause a relative restriction on air flow to your skimmer. That's why on that PM unit there's a separate ozone port from the air valve (similar deal on my MR3).
 
I just picked up a 25mg/hr unit. I'll be hooking it up to the beckett input via a T (MTC HSA skimmer on my sps tank) so I can run the generator on a timer. Unit seems small enough to not cause much harm but still be effective. I'm also throwing on a 16w UV unit too, just for spite.. :)

jb
 
Some additional pluses in using ozone.

1. The odor in the air from the waste collected in the skimmer is gone. You no longer have the periodic fishy smell around your system.

2. Heavens for bid, but we have often read about someones complete system going belly up, due to some sort of crash; ie; pump goes down, power goes out, etc.

Often they start out saying only a few fish or coral died. Then in less than a day all hell breaks lose and they loose nearly everything, from the death spiral that can happen. Something dies in the tank, that is not found our quickly removed, and the aerobic microbe population blooms. The water becomes cloudy and they consume all of the oxygen, causing even more things to die.

If you are feeding ozone, the chance of the microbe population in the water blooming is greatly reduced. Ozone will kill bacteria in the water and keep it from getting cloudy with oxygen consuming bacteria. So, I believe the chance of the oxygern consuming bacteria death spiral being stopped is greatly enchanced if you use ozone. Hopefully I will never have to find out.

As someone already said, yes you can overdose and kill with ozone, but the chance are slime with the small size aquarium ozone units, and assuming you don't put one sized for a 500 g tank on a 50 g tank. The fact is you can kill with every type of additive you put in your tank, including salt, if you over dose.


I use a Red Sea Aqua Zone Plus 100 ozonator with a built in controller. I love it. I set it at 350 amd max feed rate 50, it runs itself, turning off and on, maintaining 350 mv. Even if it didn't turn off no damage would be done. I feed it into my PM skimmer. MY whole system, including the skimmer are all run off of one pump. I use a single Dolphin Amp 3000.

The water quality is without question better using ozone. The water gets crystal clear. The coral has never looked better. If the level starts to drop below 350 and takes too long to recover, more than a half day. I then know I need to do something to improve my water quality, like a water change. The ORP meter is a great barometer.

The ORP meter alone is worth the cost now that I have used it. ORP reading is the best indicator I have for what is happening in my tank. It is also a good prophylactic to keep from spreading disease in the tank.

If your discharge is into a sump any ozone carry over is quickly dissipated. Running it through carbon isn't a bad idea as insurance. but, ozone oxidizes so quickly it is difficult for it to remain in the water more than seconds with the small amount of ozone put out by the system.

Ozone feed has now become more of a back up system for CPW(controlled plenum wasting), because CPW now maintains my ORP over 350mv, and the ozone is normally not running.
 
Nice summary of O3 benefits and use. Someone should post it somewhere for people who have questions on O3 uses. I think there are alot of myths about the dangers of O3. Some are certainly true, but most are very false.
 
With one of the benefits being the killing of unwanted bacteria. Would that come with a down side of canceling out some of the positive effects of running a refugium? Like: say killing beneficial plankton and other micro life forms?

Or is the effect of ozone limited to direct contact and the reaction is contained/limited to the skimmer ?
 
The ozone basically affects the bacteria in the water that it comes in contact with while going through the skimmer, not what is in the substrate or on the live rock. The bacteria that is released into the water from the live rock no affected until it goes through the skimmer.

That is a negative from ozone feed. The fact that ozone kills the bacteria in the water it contacts inside the skimmer means you should probably increase feed to coral, if you feed them separately, even though bacteria is continually being released. This is one of the arguments against using it in an SPS tank.

I shut off my skimmer and ozone feed for a few hours when I am feeding.

If you really over dosed it, it could affect everything, but that is tough to do if you follow the conservative guide lines for feed rates.
 
victor90 said:
So what would you say is ozones effectiveness against ich?
Thanks


I don't think there is any correlation between ozone and ich (other than improved water quality which would create a less stressful environment for the fish). All the ozone does is increase the charge or 'attraction ability' of each bubble in your skimmer. Therefore it increases skimming efficiency.

If you are having ich problems, I have heard that UV sterilizers work well. Also I have found soaking food in garlic solution works every time.
 
The theory of UV or ozone in ich control is similar. You have to get enough UV or ozone contact in the reaction chamber to kill the free floating ich, and enough tank turnover through the chamber to keep the water clear. AgentSPS, ozone is a very powerful oxidizer, and so yes, ozone can zap ich. It's the same mechanism that "improves" the skimmate. There's an article somewhere in advanced aquarists or the like that discusses this and somehow the eventual reasoning leads to ozone is more likely than UV to control an ich breakout, BUT in the end it's prolly better just to have healthy fish and tanks. If you've got ich, IMO it's usualy do to stressors in the tank, bad livestock selection, bad livestock handling, or a combo of the above. There have been several articles recently in advanced aquarist and reefkeeping on the subject of ich.
 
moonpod said:
AgentSPS, ozone is a very powerful oxidizer, and so yes, ozone can zap ich. It's the same mechanism that "improves" the skimmate.


Hmmm makes sense but I was under the impression that we are using far too little ozone to zap ich.
 
AgentSPS said:
Hmmm makes sense but I was under the impression that we are using far too little ozone to zap ich.

Well it sort of depends. I mean for my tank, my orp likes to hover around say 320-350 or so. If I set things to get my orp up to 425, I'll be pumping plenty of ozone into my skimmer. So, if you're just using the ozone at a low rate, intermitently to clarify the water, sure it won't do much more than tickle the trophonts, but if you jack up your orp...
 
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