Why are my corals brown? Is it my lighting?

mmotown

Active member
In my tank I have 3 x 400watt 14k Hamiltons on M59 magnetic ballast and 2 antic VHO's. In my tank my green corals are green but a few corals such as my latest addition "Valida" from liveaquaria doesn't look like it did on the internet. On the internet it looked green with purple tips. Mine now is a tanish color with purple tips. Could this be because of my lighting?
 
It could just need some time to adjust to the shipping and your tank. Personally I wouldn't order corals from Dr.'s F & S or LiveAquaria... they're too big and really their focus is on dry goods. I much prefer to order coral from vendors who specialize in corals, not all things reef. I did get a ORA Miami orchid frag from LiveAquaria, a friend added it to her order for me for some work I did on her lights. The frag came in solid brown and has taken a month and a half to develop any color on the tips. IMO it could not have been in very good condition when it was sent out. Good luck :)
 
You know what I think you're right. Some of the corals I have ordered from them have died and I called to get my credit. I hate to call because I am a person of integrity and I don't want it to seem like I am trying to get a free credit and lie about the coral being dead. I think I am going to start using a frag company that sells frags...
 
I agree with Ti. Do you run any PO4 remover? I am certain that the coral will return its color with the right conditions.
 
I would say stay away from live aquaria for SPS. I have order a couple of pieces and none of them ever look like the divers den items. I will say these corals did color up after a month or so but the colors were not near what the pictues on there site are. I think it basically due to some good photo editing. Also, def. watch your po4, mine was zero so these corals came back easy.
HTH,
Ian
 
hamilton 14k's are very poor on magnetic ballasts, you would be better off with xm 20k's, they put out more way more par, and with as blue as they are you might be able to get rid of the vho's
 
yep, 400w on magnetic ballasts it's not even close: 128 for the xm, 96 for the hamiltons

I get more par out of my 250w 14k aquaconnects on electronics than i got with 400w 14k hamiltons on magnetic ballasts
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7684137#post7684137 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by twon8
hamilton 14k's are very poor on magnetic ballasts, you would be better off with xm 20k's, they put out more way more par, and with as blue as they are you might be able to get rid of the vho's

I have said that I am going to order the 20k's and supplement with VHO's for the evening lights.
 
Hi MMOTOWN. The first thing I would try would be to test all your water parameters . Then if you are only dectecting Po4 I would try to remove it with a product called rowa . Make sure you go slow with the dosage because if you dont you could stress out your other corals. If your other corals seem to be ok I wouldnt change the lights yet. It is not good to change to many things at once. If you have any more questions give me a call if you still have my number.
 
Get rid of your DSB (if you even have one), but 400w radiums with HQI PFO ballasts.
You´ll thank me in 2 weeks after you do this.
I´ve tried ushios, coralvues, hamiltons 14k, xm 10k and radiums.
My corals haven´t looked better than with radiums.
BTW, I have 2 250w 14k hamis on the sides with icecap ballasts which almost match radiums, for the low light corals, but all acros are under the radiums
Marco
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7684801#post7684801 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by twon8
whatever wattage the ballast is, yes from sanjay's data
Do you have a link?
I'd just pulled the data up.
PFO ballast.
Hamilton 400W SE is 140
XM 20K 400W SE is 98
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7697006#post7697006 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ti
Do you have a link?
I'd just pulled the data up.
PFO ballast.
Hamilton 400W SE is 140
XM 20K 400W SE is 98
that is on a pfo HQI ballast, not magnetic.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7694829#post7694829 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Leopardshark
Get rid of your DSB (if you even have one), but 400w radiums with HQI PFO ballasts.
You´ll thank me in 2 weeks after you do this.
I´ve tried ushios, coralvues, hamiltons 14k, xm 10k and radiums.
My corals haven´t looked better than with radiums.
BTW, I have 2 250w 14k hamis on the sides with icecap ballasts which almost match radiums, for the low light corals, but all acros are under the radiums
Marco

I have already spent too much money on my lighting so
for now I have to make it work with my mag 59's.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7697070#post7697070 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by twon8
on a magnetic ballast a hamilton 14k has a ppfd of 96.5, xm 20k has ppfd of 128

the hamilton is on this page
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/jan2005/feature.html

xm on this one
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2004/feature2.htm
Given the figures, those two bulbs are a bit similar in performance,
This excess par is a product of the extra wattage consumed,so that makes sense. Apparently on PFO the Hamilton does very well and on the taiwan HQI, they are relatively the same.

PFO
Hamilton = 140.5
XM = 98

Taiwan HQI
Hamilton = 115.3
XM = 114
 
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