Why is everyone against ball valves?
- Thread starter n00by
- Start date
justinhass
New member
I have them and feel there is no problem. Some people just don't like them for something that might need a fine adjustment.
VacavilleFC3S
Active member
ball valves are for starting/stopping the flow of water, because the way a ball valve works you cannot accurately restrict it, as well as your could with a gate valve, also most stands aren't that tall so if you want quick disconnects inorder to remove incase of a blockage there most likely isn't going to be room for ball valves
Whys
New member
Ball valves are smaller than gate valves, but gate valves provide finer control. Many use a ball valve on their return line to throttle back their pump, but a valve on the drain is not recommended because even a small clog could cause your display tank to overflow.
I have a ball valve on my drain which is closed slightly just after a T to the fuge. This allows a small amount of water to backup to the T and drain to the fuge for a slow flow there. A gate-valve simply wouldn't fit in the space provided.
I have a ball valve on my drain which is closed slightly just after a T to the fuge. This allows a small amount of water to backup to the T and drain to the fuge for a slow flow there. A gate-valve simply wouldn't fit in the space provided.
Alaskan Reefer
New member
Gate valves tend to be better for most applications, nothing specific against ball valves.
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
I never heard anybody being against them on a return line however I wouldn't put one on a drain line unless you have at least 2 drains.
Are you sure you’re not confusing ball valves with checkvalves? Because those always fail and shouldn't be used as a means to keep your sump from overflowing.
Are you sure you’re not confusing ball valves with checkvalves? Because those always fail and shouldn't be used as a means to keep your sump from overflowing.
n00by
New member
No, i'm talking about ball valves. So not recommended for drain, hmm... even if it's a durso drain. I mean the odds of a snail, crab, fish getting stuck in that thing is pretty slim. So then you guys recommend just a straight flow into the sump? Assuming the sump will handle the overflow.
Superstretch18
New member
I have a durso I made myself and find snails in my sump at least once a week. They don't get sucked in, as much as they just crawl down there. Definitely agree that there should never be a valve on the drain...
Whys
New member
You really don't want to rely on a ball valve to stop the overflow from the drain. You might not be there when the power goes out, so the sump needs to be able to handle it.
I actually run a restricted drain most of the time. There is a T before the drain valve that redirects to the fuge, but I also have a gate-valve on the fuge to precisely control the flow. This of course puts me in a similar situation with regards to a potential overflow. I break a few rules and like to live dangerously, but I've also done the calculations. Typically, the only water that will overflow the display is the volume of water that is either above or after the last baffle in the sump. Typically, there is an inch or two of tank glass above the water line. Thus if my drain clogs, which it has yet to do but likely eventually will, then the total volume of water that can possibly reach my floor is about half a gallon. I figure I take a similar risk each time I carry milk in from the car. Not a big deal to me. But my tank does receive a lot of constant observation.
I recommend putting a ball valve on your return line, after the pump, but don't restrict your drain. A straight shot is okay, that's what I have, but I've read others say that a curved drain can help reduce micro-bubbles. I can't vouch for that however.
I actually run a restricted drain most of the time. There is a T before the drain valve that redirects to the fuge, but I also have a gate-valve on the fuge to precisely control the flow. This of course puts me in a similar situation with regards to a potential overflow. I break a few rules and like to live dangerously, but I've also done the calculations. Typically, the only water that will overflow the display is the volume of water that is either above or after the last baffle in the sump. Typically, there is an inch or two of tank glass above the water line. Thus if my drain clogs, which it has yet to do but likely eventually will, then the total volume of water that can possibly reach my floor is about half a gallon. I figure I take a similar risk each time I carry milk in from the car. Not a big deal to me. But my tank does receive a lot of constant observation.
I recommend putting a ball valve on your return line, after the pump, but don't restrict your drain. A straight shot is okay, that's what I have, but I've read others say that a curved drain can help reduce micro-bubbles. I can't vouch for that however.
