why would 2 / 50 sps brown out?
- Thread starter lolgranny
- Start date
It can take months before they rear their head.
FWIW, I am actually having a hard time getting any to blow off my coral right now. I don't know if they go through peaks and valleys, or what. But I haven't gotten one flatworm to blow off in three days.
I also have very little tissue loss. If I didn't know I had them, I'd think it was from lack of light or flow. Sometimes there are more subtle signs. The color being off is definitely one of them.
I would especially lean towards AEFW if you've had them before. That means your QT process is flawed, or nonexistent. Not trying to be a D---, but that is what it comes down to.
Good luck!
FWIW, I am actually having a hard time getting any to blow off my coral right now. I don't know if they go through peaks and valleys, or what. But I haven't gotten one flatworm to blow off in three days.
I also have very little tissue loss. If I didn't know I had them, I'd think it was from lack of light or flow. Sometimes there are more subtle signs. The color being off is definitely one of them.
I would especially lean towards AEFW if you've had them before. That means your QT process is flawed, or nonexistent. Not trying to be a D---, but that is what it comes down to.
Good luck!
lolgranny
The DQ King
Ill keep a eye out for them. I thought they hatch every 2 or 4 weeks. I didn't think it was months. Every coral I have in the tank is all from 2 buddies who've had their tanks up for years and are bug free. That's what I don't get. I haven't bought anything from any local stores or whatnot.
With pests, you have got to assume that everyone has them - even your mom.
I've had them for seven months and it isn't like you can tell, either. I've lost two frags so far, and both of them were sensitive coral. If I hadn't stressed out my tricolor by light shocking it, I probably still wouldn't know I have them.
I've had them for seven months and it isn't like you can tell, either. I've lost two frags so far, and both of them were sensitive coral. If I hadn't stressed out my tricolor by light shocking it, I probably still wouldn't know I have them.
lolgranny
The DQ King
I dont disagree on watching out for pests, but not everyone has them. People who have good QT / dipping procedures and have had their tank up for years with no issues / signs of bites most wouldnt assume they have bugs. Im not ruling it out, but i dont see it as i know what bites look like as i have had them in my 75 a long time ago i have no RTN / STN on them, no bite marks, no signs of eggs, and PE is still there.
So without jumping to bugs as most do for a first answer when sps have a issue, what other ideas would we have as to why just these 2 would brown out and still showing good PE where as the rest of my corals are still very colorful.
Finland
Member
I am leaning towards Flamron's suggestion of pests. I am in the same situation as you. My garf turned solid brown and the tri color is browning out. Both have pe. Then my rose millie browned out and started fading. That is when I did a dip, and found flatworms. I am still fighting them, but colors are starting to come back. I was sure that my problem was something else.
Another thought, is potassium levels low. I have read that people add lugols for the potassium to bring out purples. just a thought.
Another thought, is potassium levels low. I have read that people add lugols for the potassium to bring out purples. just a thought.
lolgranny
The DQ King
I truly don't want to sound like one of those in denial but I can't see any bites / eggs / rtn / stn. Im leaning toward Alk swings to be 100% my tricolor has 2 tips that always look white when I dose. Im going to get a automated dosed and try to break it up.. I've been doing it 2x's a day and working 65hrs a week its impossible to break it up into 3x's a day
lolgranny
The DQ King
Roughly 10ml to keep the Alk at 10
JSeymour
New member
Valida seems to brown for me for two main reason, both of which have been mentioned, lighting and alkalinity.
It sounds like you have a handle on your alkalinity, so I would think lighting. Your bulbs may very well be "good" still, but as they age, areas that may get great light with new bulbs, may only get ok light with partially aged bulbs.
Average PPFD decrease over six months on a 250 watt Phoenix is about 17% and at a year is about 25%. Light Output of the Phoenix 14,000K DE MH Bulb Over Time Using the values in the article above, if your validas were in a 400 PPFD area with new bulbs, after six months the are only receiving about 330 PPFD. So after six months, the coral went from receiving a "high" amount of light to a "medium" amount of light. Then you have to take into account the color shift the bulbs go through. As the bulbs age, they produce less blue(great for purple coloration) and more red(great for browning).
Depending on your lighting setup, this may mean just dropping your lights an inch or two when your bulbs are six months old, to compensate for the loss in PPFD. Not much you can do about the spectral change.
Pests are a potential too of course, but in my limited experience with pests, they usually brown out and then start to get bleach. PE, for me, has always been reduced as well.
It sounds like you have a handle on your alkalinity, so I would think lighting. Your bulbs may very well be "good" still, but as they age, areas that may get great light with new bulbs, may only get ok light with partially aged bulbs.
Average PPFD decrease over six months on a 250 watt Phoenix is about 17% and at a year is about 25%. Light Output of the Phoenix 14,000K DE MH Bulb Over Time Using the values in the article above, if your validas were in a 400 PPFD area with new bulbs, after six months the are only receiving about 330 PPFD. So after six months, the coral went from receiving a "high" amount of light to a "medium" amount of light. Then you have to take into account the color shift the bulbs go through. As the bulbs age, they produce less blue(great for purple coloration) and more red(great for browning).
Depending on your lighting setup, this may mean just dropping your lights an inch or two when your bulbs are six months old, to compensate for the loss in PPFD. Not much you can do about the spectral change.
Pests are a potential too of course, but in my limited experience with pests, they usually brown out and then start to get bleach. PE, for me, has always been reduced as well.
lolgranny
The DQ King
What are u using? I have api , salifert, and now hanna
lolgranny
The DQ King
For sure guys! Think cross checking is a solid idea? I come to here for different ideas / smarts so im sorry for asking so many question's haha
RynosReef
New member
Definitely double check. Salifert provides calibration fluid with there kH kit so you can even check its accuracy with itself. My last kH kit from salifert was off by almost 0.5dkH. So when I was getting readings of 7.0 and thinking its ok, it was really in the danger zone of 6.5. Whatever you confirm the results to be, if you need to fix something make sure you do it slow over a few days or longer. I've been having trouble with some sps browning out and have been following along too for pointers lol. My corals all have good PE but not the color.. Hope you figure it out bud
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