will ich go away untreated?

[mavgi]

Re: Re: heuerfan

Re: Re: heuerfan

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9969573#post9969573 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by heuerfan
Okay good luck. Ich is defintely a pain in the butt. Would you consider doing hypo on your FOWLR if the garlic and uv don't help?

you and peperez was in my house and saw how my fish look like...

some of them got ich before and i decide not to treat them in my QT , in the past i did it and you saw also my QT still run but i decide to take the risk because in the past when i did it some of the fish die as zomm said " when you move the fish out of the tank for treatment in a different tank when they had the parasites on them most of the time the fish will die " and peperez also saw my queen angle with the lympo to ....

i decide to keep them and feed them 2 time day with the food i make also i change every week 10-15% of water in the system and try to keep the tank with goood water parameter i believe if i was taking out my queen angle or other fish to my QT they was die because they to big for that 20 gallon tank and it was very hard to keep in this small tank good water quality , the nitrate will sike up easy and the fish was getting very quick bacterial infection to and after that velvet ... so i decide or to loose all or to try to let them cure alone . you know how they look like...
ZOOM i suggest if you can try to do more water change to reduce the ich from the water . here it's my queen free from the lymop and he was total cover of it and in 2 week he was cure .

 

[Zoom]

ZOOM i suggest if you can try to do more water change to reduce the ich from the water

Water changes well this is BB FOWLR tank so i started to do weekly 30G water changes with siphoned the bottom the same time.
All three fish doing ok the Emperor is the worst he just don't like any thing on his body at all .
They eat some shrimp tonight and they swimming around i will try to do a water change more often i was thinking to up the ozone in to the skimmer from 50Mg to 100Mg i will see in a day or two when the next stage of Parasites hatch how bad it still is and if no change i will go to stage two .
Stage two all the rock is coming out of the tank and i start to do dally water changes after adding copper and formalin in to the water i really don't like to do this that angels don't like copper at all and it may kill him.
I hope the parasites are been killed by the UV... I know not all but enough so the fish can fight this on there own.
Very nice queen mavgi one of my favorite fish .
My next move after all this is over, i will take the sump refuge out and put a WD filter for a sump and with LR in the tank so if something like this occurs again i can take the rock out and treat/medicate the tank with no problem.

 

[mavgi]

Zoom , i hope you will not go over all this ......

if you decide to do that i just can suggest you :

to treat the fish in 5 gallon bucket with the formalin and not to put it in the tank (after you can put the fish in the tank again)
about the cooper , i try that way in the past on my 120 gallon tank and it's very hard to keep the cooper level in this size of tank . the cooper evaporate from the water from morning to night and i find my self dose all the time cooper to the system with no success to control on the right cooper level for good treatment .
also as you know good cooper treatment need to be at least 21 day almost same time as hypo and less stress to the fish , i think hypo in this case will be better.

for the vitamin add to the food , i will dose not just garlic , every time you feed change the vitamin use some : vitachem , vitamine c , zoecon to help to enhance the immune system of the fishes and to keep the fish eating all the time .

when i mix some vitamin to the food the change in the fish body shown quick.

 

[Beemo]

i used kick ick and not only did it NOT get rid of the ick but it killed all my fish.
i followed directions, dosed properly, day one things were ok, a few days later the ick got worse..repeated dose, fish couldnt breathe, fish all dead by morning

dead fish still with ick on them...the stuff is garbage

 

[Zoom]

So far UV/Ozone help the fish still they have Ick but the # are down they are all eating and doing better ............................garlic did nothing ,UV and ozone help to minimize the ick but not completely gone yet .
Beemo
I lost i whole tank of fish using this Kick kill fish . Like you all my fish die but not from the Ick.

 

[Beemo]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9990756#post9990756 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Zoom
So far UV/Ozone help the fish still they have Ick but the # are down they are all eating and doing better ............................garlic did nothing ,UV and ozone help to minimize the ick but not completely gone yet .
Beemo
I lost i whole tank of fish using this Kick kill fish . Like you all my fish die but not from the Ick.

terrible, that stuff should be taken off the market :mad2:

 

[victorcan]

After seeing this post a dozen times with multiple searches heres my .02¢
Ich as horrible a parasite gets in a closed reef system I have found over the years the key and solution is food.. I have had a pretty heavily populated reef tank up and running for decades.. The ich virus is in the water has been for close to a decade, Im not sure why some fish get ich and others don't but my experience has shown me that Tangs seem to be the most susceptible and toughest to get free of the parasite.. My most recent example comes from the addition of an achilles tang recently added 2 months ago.. I attempted the same fish almost a year ago to the month and could not meet the same results but this case I changed a couple things and seem to have found success.. Last year the achilles contracted the ich but it was smaller than 6-7 other tangs and as he weekend from the bug he got beat up by the larger tangs who also got the spots on them as well, but not as badly. None the less the combination of the other tangs and the parasite got the best of him, this time around I found a nice 7" (Very Healthy upon acclimation) he developed the spots in a matter of 2-3 days in the system and once again all the tangs started showing sign of having the spots on them as well..But being that this Tang was at least an 1-2" bigger than any other Tang in the tank they seemed to leave him be after the 1st day. I couldn't get him to eat anything except sheets of Nori, and I tried over a dozen foods, mysis, Rods, Flakes, Pellets, Romaine , you name it but the only thing he'd nibble on was the nori. After 2 weeks he stopped eating that as well even with my continued placement of fresh nori in the tank it seemed hourly, this is where Garlic comes in, I started dipping the Nori with Kent Garlic extreme and curiously he would come up to it look at it and swim away, by this time he was starving haven not eaten in almost 2 full weeks, but i persevered and continued knowing he had eaten it early on. Finally 2 days after Garlic being put on the nori he stared eating again and after maybe 3-4 days he wasn't just nibbling but pushing back the 5-6" Naso tangs from their 1st takes too.. I stopped the daily garlic dips but continue to feed him Nori 3-4 sheets a day… He has not had a spot on him in about a week now, and amazingly none of the other fish have spots either.. So while Im certain the parasite remains in the tank, heavy feeding to get them healthy again allows the fish to fight the parasite on its own immune system. So to wrap it up the keys to being able to overcome the issue if you don't have a hospital tank or QT and you got a prized fish with ich this would be my .02¢, additionally I believe if the Tang was smaller than the other tangs this would not work as they will beat the crap out of it and he will be overcome by the stess, so Bigger fish and find the food they like and feed feed feed, and remember water changes all the feeding will pollute your water and big weekly changes of 30-45% of your volume are smart… Hope someone looking for a cure doesn't waste their money on the snake oils I have tried them all and honestly don't think they solve problems and in some cases make problems worse. Hope this helps someone someday..

 

[jam.jo]

Absolutely not. You must QT your fish minimum of 8 weeks in order to eradicate the parasite from your display tank and treat your fish with TTM, Hypo, or Copper but make sure to do some research before choosing an option as some fish are too sensitive for copper such as Angels.

 

[victorcan]

Absolutely not. You must QT your fish minimum of 8 weeks in order to eradicate the parasite from your display tank and treat your fish with TTM, Hypo, or Copper but make sure to do some research before choosing an option as some fish are too sensitive for copper such as Angels.

This is true, to eradicate it, I am just explaining my experience that most fish do become immune to it in captivity just as they do in the ocean.. The reason we have to QT and hospitalize every fish that comes into our home aquariums is because every fish caught in the ocean carries it, obviously they have it before they get into our QT tanks and we "eradicate it" but the reality is they all have it in the wild and is easier for them to cope with it.. All Im saying is if you can get the fish to eat and good quality foods it can go into remission and they can live very full lives with this parasite dormant waiting for its carrier to get stressed out enough that it can reemerge.. I have a 10 year old tang that has had ich 4-5 times over the past 10 years, I have quite a few other fish 5 or more years old that have it, Ive never hospitalized any of them and as long as the fish has good water conditions and eats well it does recede into remission until the next new fish introduced starts the whole bloody cycle over.. Is this the way of the pristine reefer, no.. But it is my experience and as contradictory as it may be to some people it is truth.I have talked in person with many people who have had the same experience.