Wiring Multiple GFCI's in Parallel. Help Please

[stereomandan]

I want to wire four GFCI's in parallel so that the first GFCI in the circuit doesn't trip the others. Is this how you do it? I just want a second set of eyes look this over. Sorry about the crappy picture, but drawing in Microsoft Paint isn't the easiest.

They are 20A GFCI's on a dedicated 20A circuit with 12-2 wiring.

Thanks,
Dan

 

[Racing1]

Looks O.K. to me. Why did you get so many GFCI sockets though? All you really needed was 1 and then run regular plugs off of that one. You just connect them to the load connector on the bottom of the GFCI and then they will all be protected and save you some $

 

[ambaratur]

Running in parallel is best if you want to isolate circuits. If you lights cause their GFI to blow you may want your pump to continue pumping.

I have done the same thing. This way a single faulty item can not take down the entire tank - but each grouping of equipment is still protected.

Looks good to me

 

[MinibowMatt]

Yup.. what he ^^^ said... You want to keep things isolated... when you daisy chain things, if one socket goes, the whole line goes...

 

[stereomandan]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8103722#post8103722 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Racing1
Looks O.K. to me. Why did you get so many GFCI sockets though? All you really needed was 1 and then run regular plugs off of that one. You just connect them to the load connector on the bottom of the GFCI and then they will all be protected and save you some $

Ambaratur is exactly right. I once had all of my equipment wired into one GFCI, and the PC ballast would trip the GFCI once in a while, shutting down EVERYTHING on the tank. Not a good situation, especially if you are going to be away for a while.

This way, I can split up the important items on different GFCI's in case one trips at least the whole tank doesn't go down. For instance, I'll keep the closed loop and the return pump on different outlets so flow is guaranteed if one goes out. I'll also run my two ballasts on separate outlets and my heater will be on it's own with only a few non essential items...

The normal way to wire a GFCI is the way you mention, but then you have the risk that I described. Thanks.

Dan

 

[jeffbrig]

While the wiring diagram you show is technically correct, I'm not sure it meets electrical code, or at least common wiring practice. Rather than connect 2 wires at each screw terminal, run a pigtail from each and tie them together with a wire nut (like you've done with the ground). Much better solution, IMO (and I'm doing the same with my tank very soon)

 

[stereomandan]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8104297#post8104297 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jeffbrig
While the wiring diagram you show is technically correct, I'm not sure it meets electrical code, or at least common wiring practice. Rather than connect 2 wires at each screw terminal, run a pigtail from each and tie them together with a wire nut (like you've done with the ground). Much better solution, IMO (and I'm doing the same with my tank very soon)

I thought about pigtailing everything, but putting 5 12 gauge wires into one wire nut sure seems to lend itself towards one or two wires working loose. It's hard to secure than many wires together very well. The ground I'm not quite as concerned about as its basically just a backup for the neutral anyway. The hot lead on the other hand, I'd hate to have it work loose from the pigtail.

I don't think I'll place two wires on each terminal. I'm going to carefully strip just enough wire to wrap a U shape around the screw and tighten it down. This is very similar to how it is typically wired, except the wire would continue to the next outlet rather than being terminated. The wire would continue unbroken until the last outlet.

I think either way would work out fine to be honest. Maybe once I start wiring it, one way will make a lot more sense.

Dan

 

[jeffbrig]

You can connect 5 #12 wires together, you just need a big wire nut. Seriously, go for the big winged red ones, they'll do 5 #12. Strip them long, twist them together with linesman pliers and cut the bundle short enough for the wire nut.

I don't doubt that it will work electrically, I just think the pigtails will be more robust and reduce the risk of breakage.

 

[RicGio]

Better off using the blue/grey big wire nuts for 5 #12 awg.

 

[stereomandan]

Now that I'm actually looking at one of the GFCI's, it will be very easy. The 20A GFCI's have a nice location for two wires to be clamped down. They aren't the normal friction holes in the back that you just push 14g wires into. These allow the wires to be inserted and then the screw clamps the wire tight inside the socket. It's just like what you'll find on a breaker, how it clamps the wire.

This will make it very easy. I just need to insert the stripped wires as usual and then the clamp will hold them well. I won't be pigtailing them at all.

Here's a pic:

Dan

 

[lakee911]

There you go. Those aren't true back stab style WHICH IS BAD, but they clamp down like you indicated. Still you're passing the current through the GFCI though, and if youve got a loose connection or faulty contactplate, screw threads, etc, you could arc and burn up the terminal. Better to pigtail IMHO.

 

[stereomandan]

Oh all right, maybe I'll go pigtail. Maybe...

Dan

 

[stereomandan]

Well, I finished it up. I ended up pigtailing it. I did that because I wanted a switch on each GFCI, and I couldn't do it the way I was proposing. So now there are four independant 20A GFCI's, each with a 20A switch for easy shut off, and on a dedicated 20A circuit.

I used a mix of 12-2 and 10-2 wire because I only had a little 12-2, and a lot of extra 10-2 laying around. Overkill, I know, but at least it's safe.

Thanks for the help everyone. Here's a pic:

Dan

 

[tekknoschtev]

We did nearly the exact same thing as you (the electrical has since changed, and we re-routed things to clean it up - cable management makes things so nice). The only real difference is that we have the switches in their own box, and then one GFCI wired to a normal socket. We have the return pump and skimmer pump on one, the Seio 2600 and the canopy fans on another, lights on one, and heaters on the 4th. Works like a charm and works exactly like we wanted. In one instance we went away for the weekend, and our help watching the tank couldn't understand why the lights werent coming on. Apparently the actinic bulbs blew the GFCI, but the pumps still kept running PERFECT.

Glad to see it worked out for you.

 

[stereomandan]

Cool setup. Great minds think alike! Go State!

Dan