WTB Poly Storage Tank

M

MarineFishGuy

Capn Jack Sparrow
I am looking for 2 Poly Storage tanks (RO and Salt) now that I am more than doubling my water volume. Something like this:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200331951_200331951

Does anyone have any rectangular tanks in the 100 gallon range or know anywhere to buy them locally. I did not see what I want at Tractor supply company's website.

I found them for $150 online, but shipping for one was $75 and for two was $120.

I may decide to go with the 100 gallon Rubbermaid if I can't find something else affordable. However I was wanting a closed container to cut down on evaporation in the basement.
 
Doesn't tractor supply also sell those poly tanks as well? Maybe a tad lower than the conbined cost and shipping?
 
I saw some awesome 275g storage tanks for sale on Craigslist. They only wanted $75 each, and they were never used for chemicals.
 
Thanks Chris,
I found them, they look awesome, but I am not sure I could get them in the basement.
I will contact him about dimensions.

I did not see them at Tractor Supply in Hilliard, maybe different stores carry different stuff.
 
MFG try a water softener seller. I got two black storage tanks, 100 gallons each with lids for about $75 each a few years back. They are 5' tall and only about 22" round.
 
Thanks for the tip, that would be perfect. I will make a few calls and see what I can find.
I measured the space I have and it is 54" wide x 34" deep x 56" tall.
I need to fit both containers in that space.

I could fit two 100g Rubbermaid containers if I stack them, but I would need to make lids for them.

Although filling my Salt mixing container could be done through gravity.

I can't get them high enough to fill the sump with gravity from the salt mixing container.
My Plumbing goes above where they will sit.
If I cut the plumbing and redo it, I could gain no more than 8" in height. Still not enough to gravity feed the salt to the sump.
 
I found my blue 55 gallon drums on craigslist for under $10 each. They have removable lids and a rubber o-ring so they seal.
 
After Chris mentioned it I went back and searched again. I found some 55 gal food grade barrels for $7 each on Craig's list. Sweet Deal!

I was really hoping to get something around 100 gal, but it is hard to argue with that price.

I have 30 gal containers now, so that is almost twice as much.

I may use two of these for RO storage and get a 100g rubbermaid for mixing salt. I could build a top for it.

If I make a stand, I think I can fit it all in the space I have.
I will just have to work around the plumbing. I will have to measure, but I think the barrels will clear if they are on top.

On a Side Note, now I can also do the Rain Barrels I have been wanting to do since we moved in. I also plan to use one for RO Waste water collection to water the garden.

I will not be starting this project until next week, so I may still change plans (yet again).

Thanks for the info everyone.
 
Well I broke down before I got there I will make it out there tommorow to get the name 1 ton trucks weren't made to push out of intersections dang fuel pump went out
 
That's a good price. I've been looking for some. Is it the ones from Newark? I only see the $6 ones which were used as soap containers.
 
MFG,

Had a thought.
You are going to gravity feed the salt to the sump? This is new water? IE you are going to have a shutoff valve that you open like flood control on a dam for water changes? Or are you making some kind of automated issue in which you slowly drip or flow in new saltwater constantly? One thing I love about manual pumping with an electric pump into and out of a system. Since you have to man the controls it's always monitored. You can even have high water line (sump side) and low water line mixing container electric shut off which would kill the power to the pump running this in case something is happening that you didn't notice etc. And as opposed to a shut-off valve gravity system. If something goes wrong you just kill the power and the flow stops. You get a bad valve or an issue it doesn't stop until it's empty. Not sure why, but even the best thought out plans get the occasional visit from Murphy.
 
I like the idea of when you want to do a water change is to throw a valve and let the tank water circulate through the water change container for about 1 day then close that valve and open another valve to drain the tank to waste. This way you have little or no shock to the system, you won't overflow and you get a complete water change of all your new water. The only issue is you must have your water level in your sump and the water change container equal. This can be worked out when instaling a new system but more difficult on an existing system.
 
I like that idea Sammie, but the water level in my sump (100g Rubbermaid) will only be about 50 gallons to accommodate all of the water in the plumbing during a power outage.

I plan to have the 100g Rubbermaid on the top of the rack if it will fit inside the existing plumbing (have not had a chance to measure yet).
Once the waste water is run down the floor drown (separate ball valve).
A Ball valve on a line that flows into the sump from the new salt water container will be manually opened. To slowly allow the new water in.

Before I could do a water change with all pumps running, but I was only changing 30 gallons, so the water level in my sump would not drop too low.

If I want to change 100g, I will have to shutoff my return pumps as the sump will be fully drained. Although just because I have capacity to change 100g, does not mean I will always do a 100g water change. I expect my typical water change to be about 50 gallons.

Another option is to start allowing some of the new water in when I start the drain, I can keep the water level from getting too low and not have to shut anything off.

Once the new tank is online, everything will run from a single return pump. So one plug and one ball vale to shut it off/on if necessary.

I may still be able to make that work Sammie, but I would need a pump to pump water up to the Mixing container, and a second bulkhead to act as a overflow style drain back to the existing sump. Then after 1 day open the floor drain and the bottom drain and let everything flow down. I designed my return pump manifold with two extra outlets for later expansion. I could tap off one of those to run it into the Water Change container, and let gravity return it to the sump via the overflow. I really like the idea the more I think about it.

The one downside is, I usually dump my old water before I add any new water. This removes the chance of new water going down the drain.

If nothing else, I can set things up so I have either option available.
 
Are you mounting the main ball valve to a nearby stud or wall with pipe clamps or plastic strap iron to brace and isolate the stress put on the main sump drain's line and bulkhead fitting to the sump? Turning on and off of that ball valve can loosen and stress those parts connected to the sump. Not a good place to get a break or a leaker.

100 gal water change capacity. Nice. Where are the pics of your "210 creation" anyway?
 
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