Yay, upgrade time!! I could use a little help from the experts in setting up...
- Thread starter Newreeflady
- Start date
Newreeflady
New member
I am just not seeing it with the two tub design. So, it flows in to one tub, falls into the second tub, is pumped from the second back to the tank, right? Is the benefit additional baffling to alleviate bubbles?
Thanks
Angela
Thanks
Angela
raddogz
Premium Member
Some people have had good success with Via Aqua's (did fine for me about two years before the impellor started sticking - wouldn't start until you banged on it a coupe of times). I have rio's (yup the one's that melt down - mine still work but have to bang on it a couple of times - mainly for mixing up salt water).
Mag pumps are good, but they heat up water quickly.
Quiet One's are very good - many people may claim otherwise. I have one on my employer's tank and it's been flawless.
Ehiems are very dependable - haven't heard anyone have any bad experiences with them with the exception of being really pricey.
Mag pumps are good, but they heat up water quickly.
Quiet One's are very good - many people may claim otherwise. I have one on my employer's tank and it's been flawless.
Ehiems are very dependable - haven't heard anyone have any bad experiences with them with the exception of being really pricey.
Kinetic
Active member
i think he means one bucket can be a fuge, the other with all the equipment + return pump.
I"d recommend Quiet One pumps, though a lot of people say they have problems with them, I have 4 and they are completely silent unless you press your ear to the glass. Those who have had problems either throw them away in disgust, or call Pentair and get it fixed and are happy with them afterwards.
I have the QO 3000 and 4000HH versions
I"d recommend Quiet One pumps, though a lot of people say they have problems with them, I have 4 and they are completely silent unless you press your ear to the glass. Those who have had problems either throw them away in disgust, or call Pentair and get it fixed and are happy with them afterwards.
I have the QO 3000 and 4000HH versions
Kinetic
Active member
try getting a super heavy duty 10x12" rectangular bucket, goto TAP plastics and get one piece of scrap acrylic they have (super duper cheap), have them cut it for you for like $1, and use a $3 tube of weldon to glue it in to make your fuge portion. You can also be fancy and get three pieces, and make a bubble trap 
That above takes a little work, but it's not hard. Bring the 10x12" sump with you so they can cut it exactly to fit.
If you want the EASIEST thing, which mos tlikely isn't the best, get some eggcrate and divide the sump.
GL =)
That above takes a little work, but it's not hard. Bring the 10x12" sump with you so they can cut it exactly to fit.
If you want the EASIEST thing, which mos tlikely isn't the best, get some eggcrate and divide the sump.
GL =)
How about something like this guys did? or just get a hang of the back sump/or ref. You don't have to have one you know, but it is nice to have the extra water volume.
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-07/totm/index.php
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-07/totm/index.php
Newreeflady
New member
I'm going to head to Target tomorrow to see what I can find in Rubbermaid stuffs.
Art, thanks for the ideas with TAP plastics, this sounds like a really cheap and effective way to go.
Elite, do you drill tanks a lot? How often do they crack? Only the bottom has the tempered warning, i'm assuming the sides are not tempered as this is generally the case. I won't be able to attend the meeting because i'll be in NY, but i'll be here until the 2nd and i'll be back on the 12th.
Apon, thanks for the link. That looks like a very easy set-up. I wouldn't mind putting in the baffles if it helps with the bubbles even though this guy says he has taken care of the bubbles with the micron sock. Also, looks like he is running 450+ gph through the sump since he said it is unrestricted and through a 3/4" return. I am assuming 4' head loss, but it's probably less.
What pump choices do I have for externals? I am thinking maybe it is better to locate the pump above the sump, thereby creating more room in the sump and having less loss if I decide to split the drain.
How bad of an idea is it to split the drain to create a sort of faux closed loop? Is it possible to eliminate air from draining with the water? Looking at the Lifereef overflow for instance, it appears to have a sponge type thing that is supposed to capture bubbles; Would this make the drain water essentially bubble-free and therefore make the idea of splitting the drain off so that less flows through the sump a feasible idea? If not, maybe I need to consider drilling, running less through the sump, and also drilling a CL.
I certainly like the idea of going as simply as possible here. It is 36g, but I do like to have flow in the tank, especially in the upper areas where I intend to keep sps. I don't mind if the bottom has relatively low flow because I intend to place species accordingly.
Thanks!
Angela
Art, thanks for the ideas with TAP plastics, this sounds like a really cheap and effective way to go.
Elite, do you drill tanks a lot? How often do they crack? Only the bottom has the tempered warning, i'm assuming the sides are not tempered as this is generally the case. I won't be able to attend the meeting because i'll be in NY, but i'll be here until the 2nd and i'll be back on the 12th.
Apon, thanks for the link. That looks like a very easy set-up. I wouldn't mind putting in the baffles if it helps with the bubbles even though this guy says he has taken care of the bubbles with the micron sock. Also, looks like he is running 450+ gph through the sump since he said it is unrestricted and through a 3/4" return. I am assuming 4' head loss, but it's probably less.
What pump choices do I have for externals? I am thinking maybe it is better to locate the pump above the sump, thereby creating more room in the sump and having less loss if I decide to split the drain.
How bad of an idea is it to split the drain to create a sort of faux closed loop? Is it possible to eliminate air from draining with the water? Looking at the Lifereef overflow for instance, it appears to have a sponge type thing that is supposed to capture bubbles; Would this make the drain water essentially bubble-free and therefore make the idea of splitting the drain off so that less flows through the sump a feasible idea? If not, maybe I need to consider drilling, running less through the sump, and also drilling a CL.
I certainly like the idea of going as simply as possible here. It is 36g, but I do like to have flow in the tank, especially in the upper areas where I intend to keep sps. I don't mind if the bottom has relatively low flow because I intend to place species accordingly.
Thanks!
Angela
Newreeflady
New member
Ok, so lets assume we drill the tank for a moment. We'll say we need to drill 4 holes, 2 for a CL and 2 for Drain/Return. *Or would we want more returns?* Then we'd want to run approx 150gph through the sump and back through Pump 1 (return.)
Q1: How much flow would I want to run through the CL? What is an appropriate goal for total flow (CL + Return) assuming I want a tank where the upper/middle portions are sps dominated and the lower portions lps, clams, etc.
Q2: If I have a CL, where does the pump rest? Is it held in place by the bulkheads/pvc or is that too much strain on the tank? I need for the pump to somehow rest _below_ the tank in the upper area of the stand. This is because we are trying to rest the tank as close to the wall as possible as it is a corner tank.
Q3: So, given this scenario, I need two pumps. What would you all recommend?
Q4: How do you protect the closed-loop input from anemones, etc? Would you want more than one return hole and more than one CL return?
Does anyone want to come by periodically to check my work?
j/k.
I am feeling a little nervous about all of this, but I know that it will be more than worth it if I do it right. I want to be happy with the aquarium in the long run so I really do appreciate the help!
Thanks again!
Angela
Q1: How much flow would I want to run through the CL? What is an appropriate goal for total flow (CL + Return) assuming I want a tank where the upper/middle portions are sps dominated and the lower portions lps, clams, etc.
Q2: If I have a CL, where does the pump rest? Is it held in place by the bulkheads/pvc or is that too much strain on the tank? I need for the pump to somehow rest _below_ the tank in the upper area of the stand. This is because we are trying to rest the tank as close to the wall as possible as it is a corner tank.
Q3: So, given this scenario, I need two pumps. What would you all recommend?
Q4: How do you protect the closed-loop input from anemones, etc? Would you want more than one return hole and more than one CL return?
Does anyone want to come by periodically to check my work?
j/k. I am feeling a little nervous about all of this, but I know that it will be more than worth it if I do it right. I want to be happy with the aquarium in the long run so I really do appreciate the help!
Thanks again!
Angela
Kinetic
Active member
For your closed loop, 2 returns would provide more turbulent flow
150gph is pretty low for your tank size, meaning you might not get enough flow to a heater (for example) during colder winter days in berkeley =P I'd recommend at least 300gph through the sump.Closed loop, I'd say run as high of GPH as you can. Even lps and softies can go for high flow (zoanthids love it). Unless you are planning specially for a coral that can't tolerate high flow, blast everything with as much as possible. I'd recommend 40x turnover, 35x minimum. Remember, more flow also will cause hair algae and other algae to not be able to get as good of a foothold. Hair algae can't hold onto sand with a lot of flow... so not just for keeping SPS, but also keeping things clean
Also with higher flow, fish will get more of a workout, so it takes away from them being in such a small tank in the first place by working their muscles a bit.I'd say build a small wooden stand for it. Don't depend on the PVC piping to hold it, that will cause leaks, microbubbles, and just make the pvc prone to breaking / leaking.
for sump return: Quiet One. This can be submersed in your sump/bucket/thing so you don't need extra space. For a closed loop, go with an external like Eheim. I've yet to hear one complaint about Eheim. People claim Mag drives are good, etc., but then there are complaints. I've never heard of someone running a Quiet One externally, though it can be done. QO for sump return and Eheim for closed loop gets my vote! Or heck, get a Squence DART and put 3000GPH + into that tank
j/k thoughI'd do a spray bar for the most cautious move. Basically a long pvc pipe drilled with a ton of holes as an intake. THis will get rid of concentrated intake without needing a ton of holes drilled. You can be smart and hide it down low behind rockwork, and also buy some black PVC pipe from savko.com. Otherwise I'd go with at least 2 intakes, both the same size as the intake of the pump (IE> pump is 1" intake, then have two intakes both 1").
sure =)Does anyone want to come by periodically to check my work?
Newreeflady
New member
"Unless you are planning specially for a coral that can't tolerate high flow, blast everything with as much as possible."
Well, I do want to keep clams, too, and as I understand it they don't like a lot of flow. I can keep a maxima on the floor and a crocea up in the rockwork somewhere that the flow is minimal. So, given this, are you still with such a large turnover?
"For your closed loop, 2 returns would provide more turbulent flow "
So, would you place these high in the tank or mid-level? What is the most discrete option for return? I have only seen large elbows as returns on CL on a very large tank, I have no concept of this on a small system.
" I'd do a spray bar for the most cautious move. "
So, I could essentially run a drilled out pvc with a cap along the back seam of the tank to draw water in? The only problem I see with this is debris being pulled in off the rockwork. How do you keep from clogging the pump? Also, I just looked at the Savko site, is the diameter given o.d. or i.d.? http://www.savko.com/PartList.asp?pgid=4&ptid=18&pid=146
And, how do you match how much can be pulled from an intake like this so that you can choose an appropriate pump and not end up having to choke the pump off?
Now this all seems kind of nerve-racking. I would need a bazillion holes in this tank, what if one cracks it? It was suggested to me that a closed-loop be run using a u-tube as well instead of drilling... is this maybe a more realistic route? Could I use the intake idea on the back seam and put a u-tube at the top and run a CL from that?
" quote:
Does anyone want to come by periodically to check my work? j/k.
sure =)"
Thanks!!
-A
Well, I do want to keep clams, too, and as I understand it they don't like a lot of flow. I can keep a maxima on the floor and a crocea up in the rockwork somewhere that the flow is minimal. So, given this, are you still with such a large turnover?
"For your closed loop, 2 returns would provide more turbulent flow "
So, would you place these high in the tank or mid-level? What is the most discrete option for return? I have only seen large elbows as returns on CL on a very large tank, I have no concept of this on a small system.
" I'd do a spray bar for the most cautious move. "
So, I could essentially run a drilled out pvc with a cap along the back seam of the tank to draw water in? The only problem I see with this is debris being pulled in off the rockwork. How do you keep from clogging the pump? Also, I just looked at the Savko site, is the diameter given o.d. or i.d.? http://www.savko.com/PartList.asp?pgid=4&ptid=18&pid=146
And, how do you match how much can be pulled from an intake like this so that you can choose an appropriate pump and not end up having to choke the pump off?
Now this all seems kind of nerve-racking. I would need a bazillion holes in this tank, what if one cracks it? It was suggested to me that a closed-loop be run using a u-tube as well instead of drilling... is this maybe a more realistic route? Could I use the intake idea on the back seam and put a u-tube at the top and run a CL from that?
" quote:
Does anyone want to come by periodically to check my work? j/k.
sure =)"
Thanks!!
-A
Kinetic
Active member
I'd still with large turnover =) You can be crafty and create a little nook shielded by strong direct flow. But just for a clam, I wouldn't sacrafice the rest of the tank for it.
Depends on where you want the water to come from. Just put it on the back wall using black fittings / locline. Have them closer together in the middle so you can have them peek out of a cave etc. Higher the better, less duststorms, more surface agitation.
If you have a lot of small holes drilled, it would be even better than a strainer. It'd be as simple as detatching and rinsing it out. It's similar to a powerhead in your tank having it's intake screen clogged up.
All piping is O.D. probably, since sched 80 fittings fit sched 40 pipes. I may be wrong.
as long as the intake is as big as the intake of the pump, you're fine. I may be mis-interpreting the questiont hough.
the more utubes, the more cluttered your tank will look. I'm no expert on glass, so I can't say much more than that. maybe others can pitch in?
goodluck! hope that helps =X
Newreeflady
New member
Ok, so how does this sound?
Out flow:
If I have the oveflow the only thing that shows is the black overflow box. I can put the CL Drain along the back seam with black PVC drilled out as you suggested. This would be pretty discrete and look neat and clean I think. If I use a
I will have two returns,:
CL: This will return up the length of the tank in the back to the tank where pipe will run along side the intake in order to minimize intrusion. At about 1/3 the way down I will split the pipe to a 2 x 3/4" i.d. loc-line using a 3/4" Y fitting. Then i'll have maneuverable loc-line to work with and can easily place the flow anywhere to push from behind the rock.
Return from sump: This return will be directed to a spray bar which will lie on the side of the aquarium opposite the overflow. It will be very discrete as well as I plan to split it off and run it along the top of the tank and it should be nicely camoflauged by the tank's trim.
I know this is probably hard to visualize with no drawing. Does anyone know of a downloadable 3-d drawing program that is easily/intuitively used?
If you were able to visualize it, what flaws if any do you see? Use this picture of a the same shaped tank to help visualize. Picture the overflow on the left side of the aquarium, the CL intake "strainer" in the back corner, etc.
As far as the sump goes, after looking today I found no rubbermaid containers that would fit the job. However, it appears that the AGA 5.5g tank will fit so that is what i'll be using for a sump. The dimensions are 16" long x 8" deep x 10" tall.
Pumps:
Return
If I want around 300gph back from the return I could use a Mag 7 which would give 379gph after my calculated head loss. I could cut it back a little if needed. So, these are really unreliable? The Quiet One 3000 is about $15 more, marginal, really, but it has 434gph which is more than I was told was good to put through the small sump. The Eheims give less flow for more money so I would rather go with one of the others if they are still good.
CL:
A Quiet One 4000 will give me nearly 600gph. But, if I run that through a SQWD or Squirt I will get less, right?
Is it feasible to run nearly 400gph through a 5.5g sump? Or, is this just asking for bubbles?
If this is ok, would 1000 gph be about good for the 36g bowfront? Maybe less if I use a sqwd or squirt.
Ok, I have lots of questions, i'll stop now
Thanks!!
Angela
Out flow:
If I have the oveflow the only thing that shows is the black overflow box. I can put the CL Drain along the back seam with black PVC drilled out as you suggested. This would be pretty discrete and look neat and clean I think. If I use a
I will have two returns,:
CL: This will return up the length of the tank in the back to the tank where pipe will run along side the intake in order to minimize intrusion. At about 1/3 the way down I will split the pipe to a 2 x 3/4" i.d. loc-line using a 3/4" Y fitting. Then i'll have maneuverable loc-line to work with and can easily place the flow anywhere to push from behind the rock.
Return from sump: This return will be directed to a spray bar which will lie on the side of the aquarium opposite the overflow. It will be very discrete as well as I plan to split it off and run it along the top of the tank and it should be nicely camoflauged by the tank's trim.
I know this is probably hard to visualize with no drawing. Does anyone know of a downloadable 3-d drawing program that is easily/intuitively used?
If you were able to visualize it, what flaws if any do you see? Use this picture of a the same shaped tank to help visualize. Picture the overflow on the left side of the aquarium, the CL intake "strainer" in the back corner, etc.
As far as the sump goes, after looking today I found no rubbermaid containers that would fit the job. However, it appears that the AGA 5.5g tank will fit so that is what i'll be using for a sump. The dimensions are 16" long x 8" deep x 10" tall.
Pumps:
Return
If I want around 300gph back from the return I could use a Mag 7 which would give 379gph after my calculated head loss. I could cut it back a little if needed. So, these are really unreliable? The Quiet One 3000 is about $15 more, marginal, really, but it has 434gph which is more than I was told was good to put through the small sump. The Eheims give less flow for more money so I would rather go with one of the others if they are still good.
CL:
A Quiet One 4000 will give me nearly 600gph. But, if I run that through a SQWD or Squirt I will get less, right?
Is it feasible to run nearly 400gph through a 5.5g sump? Or, is this just asking for bubbles?
If this is ok, would 1000 gph be about good for the 36g bowfront? Maybe less if I use a sqwd or squirt.
Ok, I have lots of questions, i'll stop now
Thanks!!
Angela
Kinetic
Active member
It's too late to visualize this right now. Try CADstd, look for it on download.com. It's free and it's pretty easy to use. Limited though. It's not 3d so you'd have to give multiple views. 3d stuff gets confusing and time consuming
I"m guessing you're done with finals now though, so go for it.Are you planning to add baffles? Getting glass pieces exactly can be done if you goto any glass company (many found on san pablo ave.) and get the right silicon for baffles. Shouldn't be too expensive either. You could also see if acrylic bonds with glass with any sort of weldon stuff, but I know this is not a good idea and never works very well. Or just use eggcrate to partition. I'd recommend partitioning off a place for macro algae. Eggcrate may not be enough, and you could go and get gutterguard to zip tie to eggcrate for better macro containment. This will keep macro from stuffing into your pump intake, fry on the heater, suck up into a skimmer, etc.
look for the QO on bigalsonline dot com, they're increadibly cheap, and have marinedepot price match. they'll do it for ya
Quiet one would be a great choice, and are good. Mag's are known to crack if you put too much pressure around the area where the return is, but if you're gentle and don't party too hard in berkeley (or riot for that matter) you should be ok. QO in my experience is quieter than a mag, people beg to differ but if you get a QO that isn't defective, it will be like a wisper.SQWD will take away much more, while a squirt will only reduce as much as a 90 degree elbow would. Look into QO 4000HH if you use a SCWD.
if you have good baffles to trap bubbles and did a good plumbing job, it's pretty good.... though I'd go for something sub 400gph through something as big as a 5.5g.
I'd go for around 1500gph and then add a squirt. 1600gph then add a SCWD. I have a nice SCWD for sale you can buy for $15
they are known to seize if you don't maintain them though.Newreeflady
New member
So, you don't use aquarium silicon for glass/glass bonding? What am I looking for in order to bond the baffles?
I didn't realize i'd need to do glass. Yes, I do plan on baffles, I will have to take a ride down San Pablo then and see if I find some glass cutters.
Thanks for the tip on Big Al's, but why not just buy from them instead of MD?
What is the gutterguard you're talking about? I looked up online and only found stuff for roof gutters.
I am told SQWD is noisy, too. I am easily annoyed, noise won't work well for me. The Squirt is pretty expensive, though, i'm not sure I want to spend that much. I think I may forego the variable flow for now. It is such a small tank, I should be able to get some flow to bounce off of the walls, rocks, etc. Hopefully this will be enough. I don't *need* one of these devices for the CL, I can just run run through a pump, right?
Well, i'm still looking at pumps, the Eheim are way too expensive. The QO look good, but the 3000 will put out too much flow for the return, the 1200 too little. Big Al's and Marine Depot don't sell the 2200, but I found it at Premium Aquatics for $44. I wonder if this is not a popular model, though, because MD doesn't have it, and it is not in the Head Loss Calculator. I have no idea how much it would push, I am just assuming it would be a middle road between the 1200 & 3000. Do you think I should just get the 3000 and cut it back a bit? The calculator says i'll get 434gph after head loss.
For the CL, a QO4000 HH will put out 704gph.
Looks like we're stuck at 1000-1100gph. This will have to be enough because we can't run more than 300-400gph or so through the sump and the pumps for the CL start to jump very high after this. The QO5000 & 6000 both have less output for this application than the 4000HH does as per the Head Loss Calculator. I am wondering if 700gph out of 2 jets will cause stress to the animals. Is this too strong? If I use the Locline and run both through flare nozzles will this be ok?
Ok, so i'll set out to buy the 5.5g tank tomorrow and start planning around that as far as building the sump. I am still not set on the pumps.
I will see about d/l that program you mentioned.
Thanks,
Angela
I didn't realize i'd need to do glass. Yes, I do plan on baffles, I will have to take a ride down San Pablo then and see if I find some glass cutters.
Thanks for the tip on Big Al's, but why not just buy from them instead of MD?
What is the gutterguard you're talking about? I looked up online and only found stuff for roof gutters.
I am told SQWD is noisy, too. I am easily annoyed, noise won't work well for me. The Squirt is pretty expensive, though, i'm not sure I want to spend that much. I think I may forego the variable flow for now. It is such a small tank, I should be able to get some flow to bounce off of the walls, rocks, etc. Hopefully this will be enough. I don't *need* one of these devices for the CL, I can just run run through a pump, right?
Well, i'm still looking at pumps, the Eheim are way too expensive. The QO look good, but the 3000 will put out too much flow for the return, the 1200 too little. Big Al's and Marine Depot don't sell the 2200, but I found it at Premium Aquatics for $44. I wonder if this is not a popular model, though, because MD doesn't have it, and it is not in the Head Loss Calculator. I have no idea how much it would push, I am just assuming it would be a middle road between the 1200 & 3000. Do you think I should just get the 3000 and cut it back a bit? The calculator says i'll get 434gph after head loss.
For the CL, a QO4000 HH will put out 704gph.
Looks like we're stuck at 1000-1100gph. This will have to be enough because we can't run more than 300-400gph or so through the sump and the pumps for the CL start to jump very high after this. The QO5000 & 6000 both have less output for this application than the 4000HH does as per the Head Loss Calculator. I am wondering if 700gph out of 2 jets will cause stress to the animals. Is this too strong? If I use the Locline and run both through flare nozzles will this be ok?
Ok, so i'll set out to buy the 5.5g tank tomorrow and start planning around that as far as building the sump. I am still not set on the pumps.
I will see about d/l that program you mentioned.
Thanks,
Angela
Kinetic
Active member
you do, i was thinking acrylic baffles in glass tank.
You'll need glass pieces for baffles. Bring your tank, and have them cut pieces for you so they will fit exactly. I cannot stress on the word "exact".
big al's takes forever to ship, and their shipping usually comes in junky boxes. Also I like supporting MD =) They're in CA and don't charge taxes, things come in 2 days with regular ground shipping. Can't get better than that.
maybe light difuser, at Home Depot in richmond/elcerrito they have this instead of eggcrate, just much finer openings.
you definatley don't *need* it, but you also don't need a tank =) it's just a cool perk that you'll love to watch, and would be great for your inhabitants. If you get a squirt and do it right the first time, you'll be happy =) Otherwise this is another mod you'd wish you'd done, and after you went without it, it's difficult to put it in. It's just as good, however, for two outlets creating a ton of turbulence. SPS need turbulence, meaning random currents of water all around. So if you point the nozzles to each other, and by the time they hit the SPS and they're extremely turbulent, then you're good to go, you'll have naturally made "motions".
the closed loop should be higher GPH no? Closed loop only has plumbing loss, not head loss which is only the case for a sump return.
700gph out of two jets will not stress the animals. I have 760gph coming out of one 1/2" output (sump return) and a seio 620, then a 200gph spray bar, and my animals love it. I will be putting in another seio 620. If you think about a wave crashing into a reef, that is WAY more than 700gph
ok that may be a bad example, but you get the point Newreeflady
New member
"the closed loop should be higher GPH no? Closed loop only has plumbing loss, not head loss which is only the case for a sump return."
Well, I can't mount it at the top of the tank, it will be mounted roughly 3' below the top of the tank which is must draw from and push to, so there is some head loss.
I know for a fact that Home Depot here in Emeryville has no such beast as you describe, because I was looking for something like that to keep snails out of my overflow in the Nanocube. Also, the staff is of now help, I literally searched the floor back and forth. So, if I go, what department would I look in? Sprinklers, garden? Does it come on a roll or in sheets? I just don't want to drive all the way out there and then not get when I went for.
I think i'll try with the two outputs. I think it will work. I'm working on a sketch right now in 3-d using Google SketchUp. It's neat, but like anything a little learning curve. Hopefully I can have something that shows what i'm talking about soon.
Thanks a bunch! Sketch to come soon...
Angela
Well, I can't mount it at the top of the tank, it will be mounted roughly 3' below the top of the tank which is must draw from and push to, so there is some head loss.
I know for a fact that Home Depot here in Emeryville has no such beast as you describe, because I was looking for something like that to keep snails out of my overflow in the Nanocube. Also, the staff is of now help, I literally searched the floor back and forth. So, if I go, what department would I look in? Sprinklers, garden? Does it come on a roll or in sheets? I just don't want to drive all the way out there and then not get when I went for.
I think i'll try with the two outputs. I think it will work. I'm working on a sketch right now in 3-d using Google SketchUp. It's neat, but like anything a little learning curve. Hopefully I can have something that shows what i'm talking about soon.
Thanks a bunch! Sketch to come soon...
Angela
